1978 LPB Teardown and Rebuild (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Awl_TEQ
- Start date
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X2
Kevin,
What is it with you? Not only do I get your great workmanship on my parts but all the extras you threw in are really helpful and very much appreciated! I'll upload more pictures on my "bump/sill" thread and continue to make note of the high quality "Awl-TEQ" parts.
Gus
How about divorced with two pre-teens - she's got a killer job (read good income)
her interests include camping, quads, dirt bikes, travel...
Jesus...Just when you think this thread can't get any better.
BTW Kevin did you see this?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/merchandise-storefront/300691-your-fj45-lpb-bed-parts-here-3.html
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Beautiful fab work!
You said you could possibly fab battery trays to support your habit....I would be interested...but also interested in the pedestal for the mini truck power steering box!
Could you give an idea of price and lead time for these components?
Thanks in advance,
Daryl
You said you could possibly fab battery trays to support your habit....I would be interested...but also interested in the pedestal for the mini truck power steering box!
Could you give an idea of price and lead time for these components?
Thanks in advance,
Daryl
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #365
I would make the stainless battery tray for $75.00 CDN each and the mini truck power steering box pedestal for $145.00
The battery brackets can be any size you want. Mine are for a group 31 battery and fit my customized engine bay but may not fit a stock 40 series. I have the original BJ42 battery brackets and can make stainless copies the same size.
The battery brackets can be any size you want. Mine are for a group 31 battery and fit my customized engine bay but may not fit a stock 40 series. I have the original BJ42 battery brackets and can make stainless copies the same size.
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #367
Sorry 
I've got no excuses other than.... money, family, busy at work, weather, laziness etc, etc...
I have been slooooowly tacking together my aluminum intercooler piping. I got the turbo to IC pipe in one piece, just need to weld it up solid. But I need more bends to do the IC to intake manifold pipe.
I've got no excuses other than.... money, family, busy at work, weather, laziness etc, etc...I have been slooooowly tacking together my aluminum intercooler piping. I got the turbo to IC pipe in one piece, just need to weld it up solid. But I need more bends to do the IC to intake manifold pipe.
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #368
Soooooo.......
I dug my 45 out from under the recycling and toboggans, swept the floor and put away all the tools I had left out. I didn't do any work on the build but I did re-acquaint myself with exactly where I was. I am half done the 2.5" aluminum intercooler piping. I am going to do the turbo plumbing, intercooler piping and power steering lines before tackling the front disc conversion complete with booster swap. Then into the cab for the cage/ gauges/ seats/ dash storage box and on and on.
Yup! I stared at it long enough to come up with that.
Then I posted up some stuff in the merchandise storefront. Hopefully I can sell some stuff so I can buy 2.5" aluminum tube, turbo plumbing lines, power steering lines, disc brake parts and such.
I dug my 45 out from under the recycling and toboggans, swept the floor and put away all the tools I had left out. I didn't do any work on the build but I did re-acquaint myself with exactly where I was. I am half done the 2.5" aluminum intercooler piping. I am going to do the turbo plumbing, intercooler piping and power steering lines before tackling the front disc conversion complete with booster swap. Then into the cab for the cage/ gauges/ seats/ dash storage box and on and on.
Yup! I stared at it long enough to come up with that.
Then I posted up some stuff in the merchandise storefront. Hopefully I can sell some stuff so I can buy 2.5" aluminum tube, turbo plumbing lines, power steering lines, disc brake parts and such.
merbesfield
SILVER Star
Ditto x2
I don't need three seats. I just have two kids that fight over any perceived advantage like only one going with dad in the truck. Although... they have come to accept only one can go on the motorcycle with me.
I suppose I need to decide just what exactly I will be using the truck for. 95% will be daily commute 65Km round trip, in which case two buckets would be fine. Actual off road mileage will honestly be like 5% or just a couple jaunts a month in the summer.
I wonder if it's too late to make a quad cab
one.
Im very curious to see what type of seat rails/mounts you fab up. Im dying to get some better seats and better adjustment rail/guides. Do you have the tool box under your driver seat?
Colin - Calgary
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #371
I thought about having the seats supported by part of the roll cage but I am going to make some storage under there and the tubes would be in the way. I might make some sort of toolbox that the seats sit on because I want to have them sit higher to gain a little leg room. Also I might put some sort of stereo system under there? really don't know yet
Thats why I gotta get the engine bay figured out so I can move on to the cab.There was no box under the seat and I have only seen them in older 40's.
Kevin.. Also I might put some sort of stereo system under there? really don't know yet
... I would sing
loud and clear ...saves some $$$
Cheers
Peter
The higher up your electronics are, the better. I once went through a deep puddle with my side vent open and swamped the interior. A stereo under the seat would have been fried. I've often thought of building an overhead rack/console for the radios. It would be a piece of cake for guy with your skilz.
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #374
My roll cage will have two tubes running front to back overhead. I was planning a custom enclosure between the tubes for something like a stereo or radios or GPS-DVD and/or switches and guages etc. I have not laid anything out yet cuz I'm still buried under the hood with lines etc.
another option is a vintage reproduction stereo radio
http://www.vintageautoradio.com/ind...category_id=4&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=67http://www.vintageautoradio.com/
you can put it in your dash.
Cheers
Peter
http://www.vintageautoradio.com/ind...category_id=4&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=67http://www.vintageautoradio.com/
you can put it in your dash.
Cheers
Peter
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #376
Just some minor tinkering
Here is the first half of the intercooler piping. I thought making it one piece was cool but it makes it damn near impossible to install. I think I'll cut it and put a coupler in the middle.
This pic is dark but I am trying to show the York compressor on the left. A while back I made the mounting bracket for it but didn't show it.
Here is the first half of the intercooler piping. I thought making it one piece was cool but it makes it damn near impossible to install. I think I'll cut it and put a coupler in the middle.
This pic is dark but I am trying to show the York compressor on the left. A while back I made the mounting bracket for it but didn't show it.
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #378
The reason I removed the compressor was to get a 6 point socket onto the 1/8" BSPT plug in the oil gallery (the 12 point wrench was slipping) This is where I will take oil from for the turbo. I don't want to tee off the sending unit if I don't need to.
The turbo oil return will go to the pan - so I removed the pan in order to weld in a fitting of some kind. I wanted to see the bottom end anyway. I was apprehensive of the internal condition of this engine given the corroded exterior including the pan.
A tad rusted...
But inside is spotless I found nothing but oil inside - no metal shards, flecks or sludge at all. I picked up this engine as a core only with the intention of a complete rebuild. All I was told was "I think they parked it cuz it was seized". Well I already established it was not seized cuz I can turn the crank pulley back and forth with one hand.
The turbo oil return will go to the pan - so I removed the pan in order to weld in a fitting of some kind. I wanted to see the bottom end anyway. I was apprehensive of the internal condition of this engine given the corroded exterior including the pan.
A tad rusted...
But inside is spotless
I found nothing but oil inside - no metal shards, flecks or sludge at all. I picked up this engine as a core only with the intention of a complete rebuild. All I was told was "I think they parked it cuz it was seized". Well I already established it was not seized cuz I can turn the crank pulley back and forth with one hand.
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #379
With no history at all I am pleased to see oil droplets still clinging to the bearing caps and cam shaft. Could have been all dry and rusted with metal chunks all over.
So I suppose I will take off the bearing caps one at a time and check for wear. What else should I look at to determine the condition of this engine? I guess a compression test would tell me a lot. I don't have the flywheel or clutch installed so I could put the oil pan back on and spin it up with the starter if I put the flywheel back in. I have never done a compression test on a diesel before. What do I need to do? There is no fuel line attached - no fuel tank for that matter
But I don't want to start it, just spin it right?
I'm sure I can borrow a test kit from the locals. I'm guessing I remove the glow plugs, reinstall the pan and oil, dribble some oil over the valve train, hot wire the starter and spin? What about the injection pump? Can I cause any harm to it spinning it without fuel? There is fuel in the filter. Unless I get real high numbers I will still rebuild but I need the numbers to decide.
So I suppose I will take off the bearing caps one at a time and check for wear. What else should I look at to determine the condition of this engine? I guess a compression test would tell me a lot. I don't have the flywheel or clutch installed so I could put the oil pan back on and spin it up with the starter if I put the flywheel back in. I have never done a compression test on a diesel before. What do I need to do? There is no fuel line attached - no fuel tank for that matter
But I don't want to start it, just spin it right?I'm sure I can borrow a test kit from the locals. I'm guessing I remove the glow plugs, reinstall the pan and oil, dribble some oil over the valve train, hot wire the starter and spin? What about the injection pump? Can I cause any harm to it spinning it without fuel? There is fuel in the filter. Unless I get real high numbers I will still rebuild but I need the numbers to decide.
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