Builds 1978 FJ-40 R2.8 Cummins Build - "Mater"

[POPO AGIE]

yeah, I plan on moving the drivers seat back a couple of inches after I get the wiring and doors installed when it returns from the shop. I've already moved the steering column up a little bit over stock to gain just a little more room as well. It wasn't terrible to drive in stock form, but that was a decade ago now so maybe it was just wishful thinking.

With the mods like power steering and completely changing the steering I am not sure what it will be like to drive when it is done. I don't remember hitting my head or my knees getting in and out. But I have not driven it since 1991 when I was in my 30s and now I am 65.

 

[POPO AGIE]

With the mods like power steering and completely changing the steering I am not sure what it will be like to drive when it is done. I don't remember hitting my head or my knees getting in and out. But I have not driven it since 1991 when I was in my 30s and now I am 65.

I just got the kit that Classic Cruisers sells and was also told to turn the seat mounts around will give another 1.5" of leg room.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I have a 4 core replacement for the stock FJ40 radiator so it sorta fits in the radiator support after some tweaking. I will have to make the hole for the drain valve bigger so that it does not hit and can be used.

I got some 2.5 x 2.5 angle iron and started attaching it to the radiator support today and got the top two revnuts installed in the support for 10mm bolts but need to get 1.5 pitch because my 10mmx1.25 Toyota bolts wont work.

 

[rossl]

Added some more bling:

 

[rossl]

I've been quiet, but I've tried to keep a little busy. I'm having a lot of trouble getting the front end to align properly, so I've moved on to other things to try to maintain momentum (tricky at best). Last week was getting the 2.5" exhaust installed. Rather than go directly under the transmission crossmember, I decided to go forward, under the oil pan, and then back down the driver side for a driver side exit. Clearances here look tighter than they actually are:

And the final product finish welded and ready for final install:

 

[rossl]

Also worked on installing some radiator hoses. I found that Gates 22049 and 20229 with some small modifications works for the upper radiator hose. Tried Gates 20685 on the lower radiator hose - it doesn't work quite as well but I'm hoping with some heating and flexing it pops better into position.

And sliced and diced:

Clears everything and with some hose clamps holds tight. Unfortunately, auto shops don't appear to carry many hoses, so I just ordered a bunch of options and returned the ones that didn't work.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I have been thinking about my exhaust and may just go out over the frame on the PS and then run under the running board. But have also running under the oil pan and then rout it the same as the original exhaust like the stock configuration along side the transmission above a skid plate like it was with a header on the 2F.

Have to still figure out the water side plumbing also.

 

[rossl]

Also did a bunch of assembly on the half doors from Topnault Classic Car Parts. So far, these are better built than the other parts from them. They still aren't 100% right. OEM door latches fit better than their full door though, and since there isn't as much hardware/window to install there is less to get wrong. Got sound deadening and latches/weather stripping installed.

After getting all the hardware and latch hooked back up and working (see post #114), I worked on getting the door card aligned. Since the door card doesn't match the OEM card, I decided to use an aluminum panel that I'll probably spray with Raptor bed liner similar to the CCOT panels. I mocked up the card and holes using a quick 3D print and sent that off to get cut.

 

[rossl]

Anyone have any weatherstripping adhesive recommendations for EPDM rubber? I'm not having great luck with the 3M 8011 sticking to the EPDM seals.

 

[POPO AGIE]

Also did a bunch of assembly on the half doors from Topnault Classic Car Parts. So far, these are better built than the other parts from them. They still aren't 100% right. OEM door latches fit better than their full door though, and since there isn't as much hardware/window to install there is less to get wrong. Got sound deadening and latches/weather stripping installed.

View attachment 3806367
After getting all the hardware and latch hooked back up and working (see post #114), I worked on getting the door card aligned. Since the door card doesn't match the OEM card, I decided to use an aluminum panel that I'll probably spray with Raptor bed liner similar to the CCOT panels. I mocked up the card and holes using a quick 3D print and sent that off to get cut.

Making good progress

 

[rossl]

I have been thinking about my exhaust and may just go out over the frame on the PS and then run under the running board. But have also running under the oil pan and then rout it the same as the original exhaust like the stock configuration along side the transmission above a skid plate like it was with a header on the 2F.

Have to still figure out the water side plumbing also.

Yeah, I thought about outside the frame rail - there is room there to cross over the frame. I wanted to get the exhaust behind the rear tires on the outside corner to ensure it moved outside the vehicle with the top off. That eliminated running outside the frame. That's ultimately why I ran it under the oil pan and then back out where the stock exhaust is (especially because there was a nice exhaust sized hole there). I'm pretty happy with it. It's close to the oil pan but shouldn't be too big of a deal. Beyond that, it's perfect. It also keeps everything tight up near the frame rails.

 

[POPO AGIE]

I removed the particulate filter and replaced it with a different down pipe from Cummins so it does not drop as much as the filter did before that flange so a 90 should put it over the frame. I even ordered a set 4 Plus running boards because of the possibility of running outside the frame.

I have a 4 inch lift on mine so I should have more room for routing the exhaust either way.

The stock skid pan was cut out for the PTO shaft right where I use to have the exhaust.

Did you modify the stock skid plate to work with the crossmember?

 

[rossl]

I removed the particulate filter and replaced it with a different down pipe from Cummins so it does not drop as much as the filter did before that flange so a 90 should put it over the frame. I even ordered a set 4 Plus running boards because of the possibility of running outside the frame.

I have a 4 inch lift on mine so I should have more room for routing the exhaust either way.

The stock skid pan was cut out for the PTO shaft right where I use to have the exhaust.

Did you modify the stock skid plate to work with the crossmember?

Mine never had a skid plate, so I haven’t had to deal with that. I also am lifted 4”. I have the DPF eliminator/relocator from Cummins, that was my backup plan but I wanted to keep the DPF to cut down on exhaust smells.

 

[POPO AGIE]

When I went up to MT to get my adapter kit we took a ride in one FJ60 with the stock tune and it was smoky like something was burning even after we make a run. The he started his own FJ60 with a tune and no muffler it was also smoky they both had the PTF. It was a different smell then my old F250 with the IDI and the Wife will complain but most likely will never ride in it.

Did you install a oil catch can?
I was going to but from what I am finding on line they may not be a good idea because once the level gets high enough you may get a slug of oil in the turbo and they did not sound like a good idea at all.

 

[rossl]

When I went up to MT to get my adapter kit we took a ride in one FJ60 with the stock tune and it was smoky like something was burning even after we make a run. The he started his own FJ60 with a tune and no muffler it was also smoky they both had the PTF. It was a different smell then my old F250 with the IDI and the Wife will complain but most likely will never ride in it.

Did you install a oil catch can?
I was going to but from what I am finding on line they may not be a good idea because once the level gets high enough you may get a slug of oil in the turbo and they did not sound like a good idea at all.

No oil catch can. Install is per Cummins guidance.

 

[POPO AGIE]

No oil catch can. Install is per Cummins guidance.

Good.
I thought that it was in the instructions to install one. Glad it is not.

 

[rossl]

Rear driveshaft installed and pinion angle adjusted to work with the double cardan joint with steel shims.

 

[rossl]

Front an rear locker switches installed.

 

[rossl]

Got the wiper motor working properly - initially low wasn't working, and then it would blow a fuse in low. Finally consulted the FSM and found that the wiper motor wire colors don't actually match the purpose, instead they were by location. Swapped a few wires around, high, low and park all work properly now.

Cleaned the motor internals and re-greased. The park brush looks like it is almost gone but still functions.

 

[sogncab]

I want to swap out the Wiper motor for a servo. Use a early 90's ford wiper switch and an arduino to run the servo.

My biggest bitch about the 40 is sprinkling and the lack of delay wipers.

I should really start that project.