Thanks @NikP I'll look for a copper block. That'll be a good heat sink.It may be difficult with the pieces you have, but a trick you can used to keep the heat up and get a good bead flow is to put a copper backing material behind the seam. This will help prevent burn-through and the weld doesn't stick to the copper backing plate.
Good luck with the roof repair! Hope it turns out great, looks like your ahead with using that donor piece.Time to take a break from grinding the floors. The driver’s side is 95% done. I need to move the truck around to get to the passenger’s side.
After watching the butt welding video, I’m anxious to try to fill in the sunroof. So, I gridded the top and estimated the roof front/back and side-to-side contours and made a cardboard mock-up. I spent an hour at the junkyard yesterday measuring roof contours of different vehicles. It looked to me that a mid-90s S10 is the closest, so I got it cut out for $35. We’ll see. Now, time to clean off the roof piece and start working at fitting it.
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1. the distance from the driver's side door jam to the center of the mounting bracket for the front bench seatsGreat job!
And I love your barn-raising idea! Too bad you don't still live in Los Alamos...
What measurements are you seekeing?
Let me see how Momma wants to spend Mother's Day, I will try to get some measurements for you!1. the distance from the driver's side door jam to the center of the mounting bracket for the front bench seats
2. the distance from the front of the mounting bracket of the front bench seat to the rise in the front floor boards by the gas, brake, and clutch pedals
3. the distances from the door jams (driver's or passenger's) to the seat belts bolts
4. the distance from the rise in the front floor boards to the seat belts bolts?
Basically, I'm wanting to put extra metal underneath the front bench seat brackets and seat belt bolts, but I need to know their approximate location relative to something common to all 55s (the door jams and the rise in the front floor boards).