1977 fj40 lost and then found.
- Thread starter Jaybird1
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After looking at that t-stat housing and stuff I think I would remove the radiator, water pump and all hoses. Get the radiator Rodded out, new t-stat, hoses and new water pump and all new hoses. I had a similar cooling system issue on my redneck 40 and it is easy to do with the bib off. Also the guy that did my radiator cleaning gave me some stuff in a bag to run and clean out the crud in the block. Good luck with your build.
Wow... Lime Jello? Alien Slime? Block Bacteria?
I've worked on a lot of old junk, but that's a first for me. Any evidence of a cracked block/head? I'm betting the radiator and heater core is full of that crud. Time for a boil out.
I've worked on a lot of old junk, but that's a first for me. Any evidence of a cracked block/head? I'm betting the radiator and heater core is full of that crud. Time for a boil out.
Hey, congrats on bringing this heritage 40 back to life. I think you need to consider doing a full acid flush like seen here:
Little help: flushing coolant / engine block...
That block is REALLY bad and you're going to have ongoing issues with it if you don't seriously address it. Nice Shepherd too, I've got an all black one from near Holland, best dogs ever.
- Thread starter
- #127
- Thread starter
- #128
I'm willing to bet it is. I think there was a wiring issue where the harness goes in the firewall on the driver side. At first I thought mice had chewed on them. But then I noticed a couple rogue wires ran across the firewall to the coil. I didn't do that. It looks like Lou ferigno tried to pull the harness through the firewall without the grommet. I think that may have been what parked it.
- Thread starter
- #129
Awesome. I was thinking of a flush like this. 3 gallons of muriatic. That is gonna raise some questionsWe have a bit of a meth problem in east TN.
Congrats on the new baby boy! (my third grandson is due in May) Time tends to pass quickly....
The big question is going to be whether the harness is salvageable. Gotta love PO's.
The big question is going to be whether the harness is salvageable. Gotta love PO's.
- Thread starter
- #132
I cut everything damaged and skinned the insulation. I am color blind as a bat so the wifey paired all the colors and I went back, soldered and heat shrank everything. This is the only location where the factory shielding wasn't intact on the harness. Seems good to go other than the rogue coil wires. I'll address that later. I did notice while it was idling in the driveway , the ignition cranked the motor and started it but would not shut it off. I had to pull the coil wire from the distributor to kill the engine.
Nice. Looks like the red with white trace still has a bare spot? When you get around to pulling the harness out of the tub, I'd suggest firing up the VOM and checking continuity. Old wires have a habit of corroding inside the insulation, they look good from the outside, but are blue powder on the inside (been there...).
- Thread starter
- #134
Good Advice.
If u are careful with a drill and cut off wheel u can remove the whole dash panel. Likely their is rust back their and other fun surprises. Fix everything, then weld it back on. As bad as that thing is, I wouldn't hesitate to do so.
Cat makes a cooling system flush that works really good
Can find it at heavy equipment suppliers
Last stuff I got right from Caterpillar
Can find it at heavy equipment suppliers
Last stuff I got right from Caterpillar
- Thread starter
- #137
Definitely look into that. Thanks!!
- Thread starter
- #138
I have a question about fuel tanks. In the not so distant future I will be welding the floor back in. Im gonna go with real steel panels most likely. The panel for the fuel tank is a really deep press and Todd offers a patch that you cut a hole for and then weld in place. The factory tank is 16.4 gallon capacity while most of the poly tanks I have seen are 12.5 gallon. Is this reduction in capacity due to the reserve section of the steel tank (depression) not being present on the poly tank? If so if I used a poly tank would the depressed patch be necessary? I cant find any pictures of the underneath on a poly tank.
ginmtb
'74 FJ40 - my first!
Can't answer your question but seems like most on here say to avoid poly. OEM is still available...
- Thread starter
- #140
Thanks for the advice!
