1976 2F Carb without return (1 Viewer)

[kiwipip]

Hi sorry but I have read the forums but I think I am more confused than when I started. I have a 1976 with a 2F the existing Carburetor (Pic attached ) has 2 lines I presume "B" is the feed and the Banjo "A" is the return.

The new Carburetor (pic attached) has the feed "B" but the actual return banjo is blank.

If I am to use the new Carb without the return line what do I need to do ?

Thanks in advance, and here I think it will be a simple unbolt one, and replace, I should know by now that nothing is ever simple.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I would look in hole "A" on new carb and make sure its not open. Maybe they just forgot to thread that hole. You could buy the correct tap and maybe the drill, or you could tap it with what ever and screw in a bolt with teflon tape.

You could swap that top plate and its parts.

 

[3_puppies]

or you could get the later 1979+ fuel pump with spacer and swap it for the one currently on your engine
the 1979+ fuel pump has the return at the pump versus the carb

 

[kiwipip]

I would look in hole "A" on new carb and make sure its not open. Maybe they just forgot to thread that hole. You could buy the correct tap and maybe the drill, or you could tap it with what ever and screw in a bolt with teflon tape.

You could swap that top plate and its parts.

Yes it is definitely blanked off

 

[kiwipip]

or you could get the later 1979+ fuel pump with spacer and swap it for the one currently on your engine
the 1979+ fuel pump has the return at the pump versus the carb

Do you know where I could locate a genuine Partnumber for the pump and spacer required?

 

[cruiserkev]

I have that same carb on my 76 and just eliminated the hard return line. Plugged the rubber hose near the fuel filter and have never had any issues.

 

[hobbes]

If using a rubber supply line, you can add a fuel filter that has a third port and connect that to your return line. I wouldn’t cut a hard line to do that tho.

Having someone rebuild the original carb not an option? That would solve everything.

 

[mattressking]

(Realistically you've downgraded your truck with aftermarket carb). They have their faults and you'll likely experience them in 6mo-1year of driving/sitting....mainly low quality floats absorb water in fuel, ICS o-ring can fail, poor casting and leftover flashing in carb are a few things I've seen.

I'd rebuild your stock carb if I were you, Toyota FSM covers everything you need to know and rebuild kits are readily available.

Your return line resolution is best done by swapping to later fuel pump and spacer or capping return line.

You will also need to do the following:

1. Buy/make a spacer to mate to your air cleaner as the reproduction carb you bought is shorter for later 2F trucks as the EGR pipe moved to manifold.
2. Choke barrel adapter for late model carb (yours is a wire that crimps with screw) The aftermarket carb uses a cable with barrel soldered on like a bicycle/motorcycle clutch/brake. This can be bought at auto parts stores.
3. Swap ICS with original version to keep the wiring (don't cut the terminal off your truck to use the aftermarket ICS.

 

[kiwipip]

(Realistically you've downgraded your truck with aftermarket carb). They have their faults and you'll likely experience them in 6mo-1year of driving/sitting....mainly low quality floats absorb water in fuel, ICS o-ring can fail, poor casting and leftover flashing in carb are a few things I've seen.

I'd rebuild your stock carb if I were you, Toyota FSM covers everything you need to know and rebuild kits are readily available.

Your return line resolution is best done by swapping to later fuel pump and spacer or capping return line.

You will also need to do the following:

1. Buy/make a spacer to mate to your air cleaner as the reproduction carb you bought is shorter for later 2F trucks as the EGR pipe moved to manifold.
2. Choke barrel adapter for late model carb (yours is a wire that crimps with screw) The aftermarket carb uses a cable with barrel soldered on like a bicycle/motorcycle clutch/brake. This can be bought at auto parts stores.
3. Swap ICS with original version to keep the wiring (don't cut the terminal off your truck to use the aftermarket ICS.

Okay thanks for the advice, yep the Carb has lasted 50 years so theres no reason it cant do another 50. I have decided to do a rebuild on it then I dont need to worry about changing fuel pumps spacers etc

 

[GA Architect]

FWIW: Years ago, in pre planning my OEM carb rebuild by a MUD vendor, I purchased and ran that same type of non-OEM carb for a while with the return line capped, no issues. Once I received and installed my rebuilt Aisan carb, I had the non-OEM carb's return line location drilled and tapped. Thus, for future use, I didn't have to cap the return.

Note: That non-OEM carb is from Throlhole, and he did the drilling and tapping. Over the years, I have loaned it out to MUD members while they have sent their Aisan carbs to the Guru's on here for a rebuild. And on more than one occasion, I've been asked to sell it, but it still sits on a shelf in my shop.

 

[Trollhole]

FWIW: Years ago, in pre planning my OEM carb rebuild by a MUD vendor, I purchased and ran that same type of non-OEM carb for a while with the return line capped, no issues. Once I received and installed my rebuilt Aisan carb, I had the non-OEM carb's return line location drilled and tapped. Thus, for future use, I didn't have to cap the return.

Note: That non-OEM carb is from Throlhole, and he did the drilling and tapping. Over the years, I have loaned it out to MUD members while they have sent their Aisan carbs to the Guru's on here for a rebuild. And on more than one occasion, I've been asked to sell it, but it still sits on a shelf in my shop.

Boy those were fun days drilling and tapping those return ports and getting them perfectly square.