1975 rear tub “sill”
- Thread starter mp9999
- Start date
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Tigerstripe40
SILVER Star
Several options for this.
Cool Cruisers of Texas
TopNault
TROA
Real Steel Land Cruisers
a few others.
Cool Cruisers of Texas
TopNault
TROA
Real Steel Land Cruisers
a few others.
brian
SILVER Star
Ccot is the way to go
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
I think it's a rear sill kit. There's a couple of layers of angle. It's a much more involved than just replacing the top cover.
www.coolcruisers.com
Complete FJ40 Rear Sill ~ High Quality ~ 1958 ~ 1984
Body, Rear Sill - By CCOT FJ40 ~ Complete Rear Channel Assembly with captive nuts that will allow drainage of water which caused original header to rust out. Built with all original body lines. HEAVY DUTY & COMPLETE ASSEMBLY, both outer and inner structural channel (Outer Sil / Skin is included...
- Thread starter
- #5
Perfect, thanks!I think it's a rear sill kit. There's a couple of layers of angle. It's a much more involved than just replacing the top cover.
Complete FJ40 Rear Sill ~ High Quality ~ 1958 ~ 1984
Body, Rear Sill - By CCOT FJ40 ~ Complete Rear Channel Assembly with captive nuts that will allow drainage of water which caused original header to rust out. Built with all original body lines. HEAVY DUTY & COMPLETE ASSEMBLY, both outer and inner structural channel (Outer Sil / Skin is included...
Through a suggestion here I used a piece of 2 x 2 square channel which worked really well for me along with some polymer discs I had laying around for frame mounts. The one thing it lacked was support for the lower tire carrier mount which was not a problem as I fabbed up a support out of some 1/4'' steel that sits behind the sheet metal and bolts to the frame. I did buy the cover from CCOT to give the exterior a stock appearance. It saved me some money and made for a very solid support.
Previous post by SkyKing is a great solution--I did the same on my 1970. Made for a strong rear lip, tapped it for the spare tire latch bolts, and the tubing of the rear support doesn't collect dirt between the layers like the stock sheet metal does.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
How did you handle the corners? Did you roll the square tubing. Stock FHT there is a lot of weight in the rounded section from the hard top and spare tire. If Toyota would have done a complete weld on the underside where the floor meets the sill instead of some stitch welds would have fewer rust issue. Not hard washing the inside of the rear sill. It's moisture that gets trapped between the layers that's the problem. Toyota design was to have floor bend over and run half way down the rear sill. Then a few drain channel stamped into the bottom half of the sill. Nothing wrong with that design as long as dirt didn't plug and drain channel and hold in moisture. If salt gets trapped its makes any trapped moisture worse.
I gave the curves consideration but saw no need for them as cab corners and box corners on most other trucks don't have them. the 40 does but it is additional support for the lower mounting point of the tire carrier that switched sides on different years hence I believe the two curves. For my lower tire carrier mounting point I made a curved piece of 1/4'' steel plate approximately 6'' square that sits directly behind the sheet metal, to that I welded pieces of1/4'' flat steel to make a bracket that bolted directly to two convenient holes in the frame, the truck frame bears the load. Actually a compact piece that is less complicated than it sounds and will support way more weight than the factory piece and can be removed independently as it is completely bolt on allowing for generous amounts of undercoating between the sheet metal and the backing plate. The opposite side of the back carries no additional weight and does just fine without the curve and eliminates a piece that over time will be infiltrated by water and promote rust between the two which is so evident on these trucks. With my bracket in place it is just more blackness in the wheel well so I can't really get a good picture of it now. I should have taken some pics when I was building it but I'm lazy like that.
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psmbfuer
SILVER Star
I'm a bit late to this thread, but I bounced over to this following one of the "Similar threads" posted at the bottom of my 1977 FJ40 Rebuild – Focus on Custom Stainless Tub thread. I used 3" x 2" for the main rear sill support and then 1/2" x 1.5" tube, which together formed the door close corner profile. My thread is still under way, and the pic below give you a good idea, with the page linked above showing most of the rear sill build. It may stray too far from OEM for your likes, but another approach.
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