1971 FJ40 - PNW Blue Patina (2 Viewers)

[EmanC]

Just realized I never posted this wheel in this thread: Posting here for general record keeping:

More detailed thread here: Custom 15" Early Style FJ40 Wheel. - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/custom-15-early-style-fj40-wheel.1237401/#post-13757200


But I made a 15" Billet steering wheel. This was meant to mimic the early style 17" wheel but at a more modern size to accommodate the power steering upgrade while keeping all of the original functionality.

I made 3 of them and one has already made its way to another mud member. Only one extra left as of today. Doubt there will ever be another run as they just are too pricey to justify making more.

 

[EmanC]

Also swapped the Winters Shifter to a Lokar Style shifter. The new shifter is hard mounted to the 700r4 as opposed to the cable-driven Winters. Being hard-mounted it does transmit a bit more noise into the cab as the shifter vibrates. Especially noticeable when idling at a stoplight. Driving it goes away. I will try and go to a thicker style boot in hopes that it dampens the noise.

Still Debating between the 12" or 16" length.

16"

12" as it sits currently.

 

[EmanC]

Quick afternoon job. Cleaned and polished up some of the knobs. Didn't want to make them too perfect. But wanted them a bit more uniform.

The process was pretty simple. Chucked the knobs on a drill using a spare M5 Bolt. Simple Green to do the initial cleaning. Followed by a round of Novus Plastic Polish. The paint fill was old enamel model paint I had laying around. Used a fine needle to fill the gaps. After everything dried I used a Dremel with a Buffing Wheel to get the excess paint off the face.

Also swapped the newer style fog knob to a correct shaped one. Just painted an old headlight switch yellow.


Old

Refreshed:

 

[MDH33]

Looks good. Just curious how you wired your fogs? Seperate? Or are they tied to headlights?

 

[77CruiserDog]

Those look excellent!!! Nice work!

 

[EmanC]

Looks good. Just curious how you wired your fogs? Seperate? Or are they tied to headlights or bib lights?

100% separate. Just used a generic Amazon 2 light harness and ran that right off the battery. Someone posted about a simple headlight reminder buzzer mod. I'll eventually wire in something like that.

 

[EmanC]

I didn't like the Lokar Shifter boot. So I sourced an Fj60 shift boot and installed that. Super easy. Just lined it up where I wanted and used some M6 Rivnuts to add tapped holes.

Now the one problem is the Lokar Shaft is pretty thin so it wasn't fitting correctly with the boot.
Can see the gap here. (The tape was for me to reference where I needed to make my adapter.)

I had noticed that Icon Uses the same boot in their builds so went and looked for better photos and it seems like they use some sort of spacer and the heat shrink wrap it to the lever arm. Not a huge fan of this so I set out to do a slightly cleaner version of this.

I ended up buying some 1" diameter Delrin rod and tuning a custom spacer to fit the arm. Used E6000 to glue the Delrin pieces in place. This is a nice and flexible glue so it should hold up fine to the vibrations. But just to be safe I also added some glue-lined heat shrink. I didn't need the bottom piece, but I used it as my test for the e6000, and it's not seen when the boot is on.

Final install with everything button up. Happy with how it turned out.

 

[77CruiserDog]

I didn't like the Lokar Shifter boot. So I sourced an Fj60 shift boot and installed that. Super easy. Just lined it up where I wanted and used some M6 Rivnuts to add tapped holes.

View attachment 2938538




Now the one problem is the Lokar Shaft is pretty thin so it wasn't fitting correctly with the boot.
Can see the gap here. (The tape was for me to reference where I needed to make my adapter.)

View attachment 2938524

I had noticed that Icon Uses the same boot in their builds so went and looked for better photos and it seems like they use some sort of spacer and the heat shrink wrap it to the lever arm. Not a huge fan of this so I set out to do a slightly cleaner version of this.
View attachment 2938536


I ended up buying some 1" diameter Delrin rod and tuning a custom spacer to fit the arm. Used E6000 to glue the Delrin pieces in place. This is a nice and flexible glue so it should hold up fine to the vibrations. But just to be safe I also added some glue-lined heat shrink. I didn't need the bottom piece, but I used it as my test for the e6000, and it's not seen when the boot is on.

View attachment 2938544

Final install with everything button up. Happy with how it turned out.
View attachment 2938525

That looks so nice!!! Well done!!

 

[EmanC]

So after not being satisfied with the options for fog dash pulls I went down the rabbit hole of making custom knobs for a few of my planned upgrades.

Sharing what I've done here:

Files:

FJ40 Custom Dash Knobs by emancarrillo

Overview: These are modeled after the early style knobs. Some knobs are at half-height as I am planning on putting them under the dash and wanted them to be lower profile. Process for those who want to make custom knows: Download the blank STEP file and cut in your own icon, You can find good...

www.thingiverse.com

Overview:
These are modeled after the early style knobs. Some knobs are at half-height as I am planning on putting them under the dash and wanted them to be lower profile.

Process for most:
Just download the .STL file and upload to an on-demand print service like 3D Printing Service | Shapeways - https://www.shapeways.com/ I haven't done this, but I would wager that Black Smooth PA12 or any Smooth Material would work. (edit: Have a few parts ordered from Shapeways will update with quality when they show up)

Or do what I did find a neighbor that has an SLA 3D Printer. Often referred to as a "Resin Printer" and have them printed that way. This is probably the cheapest way as most people with 3D printers love excuses to use them and show them off. Often only needing to pay for material costs. You can print them on a "normal" 3d printer, but the resolution will be poor and you will need a lot of sanding to make them work. Not recommended.

Process for those who know CAD:
Download the blank STEP file and cut in your own icon,
You can find good icons to use via Noun Project: Free Icons & Stock Photos for Everything - https://thenounproject.com/.
Either import directly or use it as a guide for your own line art.
I normally try and make the line width 0.75mm wide and 0.50mm deep.

Notes:
Tap the base hole as M5 and the set screw hole as M4.
I use this for the set screw McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/93038A125/

Post Process and Paint Fill Process:
After Tapping the Knobs. I use a spare M5 Screw in a drill to chuck the knob.
I then use Novus 7136 Plastic Polish Kit starting at 3 up to 1 to get the surface a bit shinier.

For the colored paint Fill, I use Enamel paint meant for miniature model painting. I like Humbrol but Testors work great as well.
For White is use a Presto! Multipurpose Correction Pen The tip fits perfectly into the recesses and makes filling white super easy.
If possible use an Ink Syringe with the enamel to fill otherwise I just use a paintbrush or needle to get it filled.
I try and dab most of the paint off. This leaves it pretty messy but it's just a thin layer to remove next.
After the paint semi sets up. I take some Goof Off paint remover and wipe the surface clean with a microfiber towel.
I repeat the paint application/wipe removal as needed till I'm happy with the fill.

and installed on my Dash

 

[77CruiserDog]

View attachment 2949466

So after not being satisfied with the options for fog dash pulls I went down the rabbit hole of making custom knobs for a few of my planned upgrades.

Sharing what I've done here:

Files:

FJ40 Custom Dash Knobs by emancarrillo

Overview: These are modeled after the early style knobs. Some knobs are at half-height as I am planning on putting them under the dash and wanted them to be lower profile. Process for those who want to make custom knows: Download the blank STEP file and cut in your own icon, You can find good...

www.thingiverse.com

Overview:
These are modeled after the early style knobs. Some knobs are at half-height as I am planning on putting them under the dash and wanted them to be lower profile.

Process for most:
Just download the .STL file and upload to an on-demand print service like 3D Printing Service | Shapeways - https://www.shapeways.com/ I haven't done this, but I would wager that Black Smooth PA12 or any Smooth Material would work.

Or do what I did find a neighbor that has an SLA 3D Printer. Often referred to as a "Resin Printer" and have them printed that way. This is probably the cheapest way as most people with 3D printers love excuses to use them and show them off. Often only needing to pay for material costs. You can print them on a "normal" 3d printer, but the resolution will be poor and you will need a lot of sanding to make them work. Not recommended.

Process for those who know CAD:
Download the blank STEP file and cut in your own icon,
You can find good icons to use via Noun Project: Free Icons & Stock Photos for Everything - https://thenounproject.com/.
Either import directly or use it as a guide for your own line art.
I normally try and make the line width 0.75mm wide and 0.50mm deep.

Notes:
Tap the base hole as M5 and the set screw hole as M4.
I use this for the set screw McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/93038A126/

View attachment 2949465

and installed on my Dash
View attachment 2949467

You do some awesome stuff man!!!

 

[Brost]

View attachment 2949466

So after not being satisfied with the options for fog dash pulls I went down the rabbit hole of making custom knobs for a few of my planned upgrades.

Sharing what I've done here:

Files:

FJ40 Custom Dash Knobs by emancarrillo

Overview: These are modeled after the early style knobs. Some knobs are at half-height as I am planning on putting them under the dash and wanted them to be lower profile. Process for those who want to make custom knows: Download the blank STEP file and cut in your own icon, You can find good...

www.thingiverse.com

Overview:
These are modeled after the early style knobs. Some knobs are at half-height as I am planning on putting them under the dash and wanted them to be lower profile.

Process for most:
Just download the .STL file and upload to an on-demand print service like 3D Printing Service | Shapeways - https://www.shapeways.com/ I haven't done this, but I would wager that Black Smooth PA12 or any Smooth Material would work.

Or do what I did find a neighbor that has an SLA 3D Printer. Often referred to as a "Resin Printer" and have them printed that way. This is probably the cheapest way as most people with 3D printers love excuses to use them and show them off. Often only needing to pay for material costs. You can print them on a "normal" 3d printer, but the resolution will be poor and you will need a lot of sanding to make them work. Not recommended.

Process for those who know CAD:
Download the blank STEP file and cut in your own icon,
You can find good icons to use via Noun Project: Free Icons & Stock Photos for Everything - https://thenounproject.com/.
Either import directly or use it as a guide for your own line art.
I normally try and make the line width 0.75mm wide and 0.50mm deep.

Notes:
Tap the base hole as M5 and the set screw hole as M4.
I use this for the set screw McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/93038A125/

Post Process and Paint Fill Process:
After Tapping the Knobs. I use a spare M5 Screw in a drill to chuck the knob.
I then use Novus 7136 Plastic Polish Kit starting at 3 up to 1 to get the surface a bit shinier.

For the colored paint Fill, I use Enamel paint meant for miniature model painting. I like Humbrol but Testors work great as well.
For White is use a Presto! Multipurpose Correction Pen The tip fits perfectly into the recesses and makes filling white super easy.
If possible use an Ink Syringe with the enamel to fill otherwise I just use a paintbrush or needle to get it filled.
I try and dab most of the paint off. This leaves it pretty messy but it's just a thin layer to remove next.
After the paint semi sets up. I take some Goof Off paint remover and wipe the surface clean with a microfiber towel.
I repeat the paint application/wipe removal as needed till I'm happy with the fill.





View attachment 2949465

and installed on my Dash
View attachment 2949467

wanna make me a set...?

 

[EmanC]

Another easy 3D Print project. Heater Hose Separators:

Files:

Two Line Heater Hose Separator by emancarrillo

Line separator for two 5/8" heater hoses. Print in Nylon or another high temp filament. 5/8" Hose Outer Diameter is .906 or 29/32" Narrow print is shown in Photo.

www.thingiverse.com

Notes:
Printed in NylonX but any high temp filament should work. (ASA, PETG, etc.)
These have held up for a few long drives now. Don't see any issues as long as they are not in direct contact with anything hot.
Depending on quality of the filament used they are less than 25 cents a piece to print

 

[77CruiserDog]

Another easy 3D Print project. Heater Hose Separators:

View attachment 2951364


Files:

Two Line Heater Hose Separator by emancarrillo

Line separator for two 5/8" heater hoses. Print in Nylon or another high temp filament. 5/8" Hose Outer Diameter is .906 or 29/32" Narrow print is shown in Photo.

www.thingiverse.com

Notes:
Printed in NylonX but any high temp filament should work. (ASA, PETG, etc.)
These have held up for a few long drives now. Don't see any issues as long as they are not in direct contact with anything hot.
Depending on quality of the filament used they are less than 25 cents a piece to print

Again, everything you make is awesome!! Nice work!

 

[FJ40Savvy]

Another easy 3D Print project. Heater Hose Separators:

View attachment 2951364


Files:

Two Line Heater Hose Separator by emancarrillo

Line separator for two 5/8" heater hoses. Print in Nylon or another high temp filament. 5/8" Hose Outer Diameter is .906 or 29/32" Narrow print is shown in Photo.

www.thingiverse.com

Notes:
Printed in NylonX but any high temp filament should work. (ASA, PETG, etc.)
These have held up for a few long drives now. Don't see any issues as long as they are not in direct contact with anything hot.
Depending on quality of the filament used they are less than 25 cents a piece to print

Thanks for sharing the 3d print files. It is appreciated.

 

[EmanC]

I set out to install a new In-Tank Fuel set up. I had been battling fuel issues for a while. I currently have an inline Walbro GSL392 pump with Fitech filters. Nothing terribly wrong with the setup. But due to a rusty tank and constantly clogged filters. It was just a losing battle and decided it was best to start from scratch.


I had considered a few options for my in-tank setup; Redline Cruiser DIY kit onto a new tank. As well as the fancy no weld Aeromotive and Holley setups. But thanks to @Skreddy and @wngrog documenting their installs, it made my choice a bit easier and seemed to be a way lower cost option. So I went with a Tanks Inc. GPA-4 from Mosley Motors. For my main driving purposes, I didn't think I needed the tray version. Also, Mosley provides all the fittings and free shipping. So that was a great benefit. Happy to support a cruiser vendor when I can.

The first thing was stripping out the old tank and giving everything under there a good scrub. Also used this time to apply Rust Converter to these normally unseen areas.

Before

After

I set out to make a simple no weld in-tank install. While I do have access to a welder I am a terrible welder and didn't feel comfortable attempting it. Also this should be easily replicated by others.

So I made a custom internal ring that would bolt to the tank with two extra mounting points. This should keep the ring from falling in if I ever replace anything. You could easily weld tabs to do this. But this ring was under $10 from SendCutSend.com Not bad for a custom 1/4" Stainless Steel part.

From there I just drilled the main hole with a 2 1/4” hole saw. Then marked and drilled the holes for the in-tank ring. I prepped the gasket seating area and then used a bit of Permatex on the threads and bolted the ring in it in. I did miss the mark by a tiny bit and had to grind my ring shape a bit to get it to fit. Seems like straddling the edge of the depression is you best bet. But this worked great and the ring is secured with no welding.

For plugging the old supply lines I bought a fitting from Toyota 90402-13041 welded the end shut and installed it with some Permatex aviation #3 to seal it up. Threads here are M13x1.5.

 

[EmanC]

I liked the AN bulkhead connection the RedLine Cruiser sells so I installed that using an old hole I had in the tub. While this does add another connection to the system. I like how it cleans up the routing of lines thru the tub and gives me the option to swap to hard lines inside the cab without having to redo extra lines.

Then it was assembling the tank and strapping it in. Needed to source some Submersible Fuel line (Dayco 80160) as I wasn't a fan of the In-Tanks supplied line.

Everything came together pretty quickly after this. Made a few PTFE hoses to plumb it in. Wired up the pump and sender and did a temporary vent system. Debating on how I want to do this so if anyone has opinions. I was wondering about making a 3-way junction. But unsure if it's needed.

Underneath decided to go with a corvette combo 58psi regulator and 10-micron filter as it is easy to source parts locally (WIX 33737). Now the FiTech does have a regulator on the throttle body so that isn't needed. But If I swap to something like a Holley Terminator X Stealth then I won't have to redo my fuel setup since that requires an external regulator.

Wix 33737
Fitting 640940 / 644113 / 644123

Just needed to make 3 more fuel lines and everything was plumbed. At the first prime, I noticed a leak at the Tanks Inc Supply inlet. So I had to use a bit of PTFE tape there as opposed to the liquid sealant and it seemed to have cleared it up. Just need to put some miles on this and see how it holds up.

 

[Skreddy]

That tabbed ring came out nice!

 

[EmanC]

Built the T for the vent system. Againt not sure if really needed to do this Or if capping one of the outlets was enough. But figured it was easy to do.

Now are the old style caps vented? I dont recall pressure issues with my oldset up. Have this cap.

 

[Skreddy]

My cap is not vented, but is likely an aftermarket added along the way. I read that sometimes the vented caps can’t keep up. Definitely worth a try with a vented cap though.

 

[mrboatman]

If you look under the fill pipe just past were the cap goes mine has a small hole in the fill pipe