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- #42
I added a 3rd Brake Light. This is a peace of mind upgrade that I've been wanting to do for a while as I always feared that the tail lights were a bit hard to see.
Fairly simple to do. I had to drill three 4mm holes in my top. One to pass the wire and then 2 for the mounting screws. I used a HELLA 3106 Thinlite (80$) Which is a bit pricier than other generic options. But it was low profile and I trusted Hella to have a good light output. LED has a gasket and the holes were sealed with silicone sealant.
The brake signal was tapped into from the brake light switch connector behind the cluster. Just used a T tap to get power there. Not ideal, but simple, and didn't want to cut up the harness if I didn't have to. Wire runs the same path the dome light does and the wiring is hidden in the internal gutter of the top.
3.9mm bullets means I can easily remove if I want to remove the top.
Fairly simple to do. I had to drill three 4mm holes in my top. One to pass the wire and then 2 for the mounting screws. I used a HELLA 3106 Thinlite (80$) Which is a bit pricier than other generic options. But it was low profile and I trusted Hella to have a good light output. LED has a gasket and the holes were sealed with silicone sealant.
The brake signal was tapped into from the brake light switch connector behind the cluster. Just used a T tap to get power there. Not ideal, but simple, and didn't want to cut up the harness if I didn't have to. Wire runs the same path the dome light does and the wiring is hidden in the internal gutter of the top.
3.9mm bullets means I can easily remove if I want to remove the top.
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- Thread starter
- #43
Got into the shop today and got an alignment done. Wanted to see what the caster was and get the overall ride dialed in a bit. Had the drags links adjusted also and the steering seemed to have firmed up and feels like less play in the steering wheel.
Seems that people recommend something like 2-4* caster for power steering. Currently at -0.5*. Should I consider getting that closer to spec? I'm personally ok with how it drives, but the GF does thinks it wanders a bit so not sure if thats true and I'm just used to it. Or if it's just part of driving a 40.
Seems that people recommend something like 2-4* caster for power steering. Currently at -0.5*. Should I consider getting that closer to spec? I'm personally ok with how it drives, but the GF does thinks it wanders a bit so not sure if thats true and I'm just used to it. Or if it's just part of driving a 40.
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- Thread starter
- #44
A Bad Fitech ECU left me stranded last weekend and made missed the entire Memorial Day weekend trip I had planned. Only had about 300 miles on this FiTech.
Symptoms were no prime shot or fuel during cranking. I should have a backup carb/pump/regulator combo or something in the truck in case this happens on the trail. Although this seems like a big hassle to swap out. Maybe just a spare ECU.
I had the FiTech RMA'd under warranty but it will be out for a while as it goes thru that pipeline. I decided to just install a new FiTech (to minimize downtime and reuse all the wirings) so I could enjoy the truck while that gets sorted. Went from the 400HPGo Street version to the 600HP version so I could add timing control in the future. Will just sell the 400hp when it gets back.
However, if FiTech gives me more problems I may pull the whole SBC and go with an LM7. This setup has left me stranded twice before in the last year and it's getting old.
Symptoms were no prime shot or fuel during cranking. I should have a backup carb/pump/regulator combo or something in the truck in case this happens on the trail. Although this seems like a big hassle to swap out. Maybe just a spare ECU.
I had the FiTech RMA'd under warranty but it will be out for a while as it goes thru that pipeline. I decided to just install a new FiTech (to minimize downtime and reuse all the wirings) so I could enjoy the truck while that gets sorted. Went from the 400HPGo Street version to the 600HP version so I could add timing control in the future. Will just sell the 400hp when it gets back.
However, if FiTech gives me more problems I may pull the whole SBC and go with an LM7. This setup has left me stranded twice before in the last year and it's getting old.
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Sorry to hear of your lost weekend. When the unit was working properly, how did you like it? Was it worth the money? I hope the new unit will be better for you.
Thanks
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- #46
No problems with it when it works. But I have spent quite a few hours reading all the tuning settings. There are lots of tips and tricks out there to get the system dialed in faster.
The biggest hassle is setting the crank settings. I was tuning my warm starts for what seemed like forever. But outside of the pain of tuning out the hard starts, it works great.
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- #47
Updated the reverse lighting situation. I was never really happy with the tiny single light on the body and after adding the larger jerry can it became almost useless. So I fabbed up a custom solution based on some images I had saved in my inspo folder. Seems like some Australian trucks did this for turn signals. I may eventually swap them over to that function. But for now, they are reverse.
Took the Front Bib Parking Lights (81610-60030) and swapped in some clear Lens made by @thecrazygreek and mounted them on Truck-Lite 30728 brackets. The brackets had to be pretty modified to fit on the frame where I wanted. But happy with the results. Beats the light bar I had originally planned to use.
I had a 71, same color. All stock, bench seat, 3 speed on the steering column, no dents, no rust. Bought it for $1700 in 1984. Wish I still had it. The ex wife flipped it 3 times end over end on Galveston Island, landed wheels up and it still ran. I bought it back from the insurance company and sold it to her brother and he drove it for about 5 years and crashed it in downtown Houston.
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- #49
Ended up replacing the main door weatherstripping.
The old one just cracked and flaked apart as I was pulling it off. I used the OEM stuff and got it from City Racer. Used this video to install it and it worked out perfectly. The door is a bit tough to close right now, but assume it will soften up and ease up as it breaks in.
I have the door felt from City Racer as well and need to set some time to tackle that. Haven't seen any walkthrus on that so need to search that out So I have a mental picture of what needs to be done.
I also noticed one of my vent windows is plastic as opposed to glass. No idea how hard it is to change those, but I will do that at a later time.
Old
New
The old one just cracked and flaked apart as I was pulling it off. I used the OEM stuff and got it from City Racer. Used this video to install it and it worked out perfectly. The door is a bit tough to close right now, but assume it will soften up and ease up as it breaks in.
I have the door felt from City Racer as well and need to set some time to tackle that. Haven't seen any walkthrus on that so need to search that out So I have a mental picture of what needs to be done.
I also noticed one of my vent windows is plastic as opposed to glass. No idea how hard it is to change those, but I will do that at a later time.
Old
New
- Thread starter
- #50
I have spent a bit of time trying to figure out a 3pt seat belt system. My hardtop does not have provisions to mount directly to it.
Inspired by how old Defenders tackle this problem I had some aluminum brackets fabbed up. I saw a similar setup done by Profiitts, but I took it a bit further by bracing it to the B pillar as well.
I have a rollbar en route and will eventually move them over to that. But wanted to showcase another possible solution.
Safety reminder: Copy this setup at your own risk. Modifying seat belt equipment is no joke and I make no claims this type of setup would hold up in an accident.
Inspired by how old Defenders tackle this problem I had some aluminum brackets fabbed up. I saw a similar setup done by Profiitts, but I took it a bit further by bracing it to the B pillar as well.
I have a rollbar en route and will eventually move them over to that. But wanted to showcase another possible solution.
Safety reminder: Copy this setup at your own risk. Modifying seat belt equipment is no joke and I make no claims this type of setup would hold up in an accident.
If you ever have to do a tap like this again, look into this product. Much better than those junky T tap things. edit IMO
Posi-Tap products are well designed.Amazon product ASIN B004D0HJBG
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- #52
I may have solved a lot if not all of my FiTech woes.
First: Replace the coolant sensor with a genuine ACDelco 15326386. This should be required for every install. The supplied sender reads about 10-20 degrees cooler than the actual. This caused my electronic fan to kick on way too late and caused the engine to run hotter than I wanted. My Dakota Digital and FiTtech now read the same temp across the scale.
2nd: Install a 1/2" Phenolic Spacer. I used a Summit Racing SUM-G1405-1. The thought here is since the ECU is in the carb itself having a spacer here helps insulate and keep the ECU for baking as much. Failing ECU seems to be the #1 problem with FiTech and this should help extend the life of the ECU by limiting the amount of heat that reaches it.
The next two are quality of life updates:
3rd: Nice to have: But add a pressure gauge. This helps diagnose a bad/failing fuel pump but also lets you confirm you have good fuel pressure at the unit.
Parts I used here are:
Earl's Performance AT991942ERL: -6 AN To 9/16 -24; Carb Adapter
Summit Racing SUM-220675B: , -6 AN Female to -6 AN Male, 1/8 in. NPT Gauge Port
FiTech Fuel Injection 80117: Fuel Gauge
Fragola 492906-BL: -6AN Cap
4th: Swap the fuel pump to a Walbro GSL392. This pump way way quieter than the supplied unit. You can still kinda hear it if you listen for it, but before you heard it whether you wanted to or not. I use an AN8 Male on Inlet and AN6 Male on the Outlet to match the Fitech unit.
First: Replace the coolant sensor with a genuine ACDelco 15326386. This should be required for every install. The supplied sender reads about 10-20 degrees cooler than the actual. This caused my electronic fan to kick on way too late and caused the engine to run hotter than I wanted. My Dakota Digital and FiTtech now read the same temp across the scale.
2nd: Install a 1/2" Phenolic Spacer. I used a Summit Racing SUM-G1405-1. The thought here is since the ECU is in the carb itself having a spacer here helps insulate and keep the ECU for baking as much. Failing ECU seems to be the #1 problem with FiTech and this should help extend the life of the ECU by limiting the amount of heat that reaches it.
The next two are quality of life updates:
3rd: Nice to have: But add a pressure gauge. This helps diagnose a bad/failing fuel pump but also lets you confirm you have good fuel pressure at the unit.
Parts I used here are:
Earl's Performance AT991942ERL: -6 AN To 9/16 -24; Carb Adapter
Summit Racing SUM-220675B: , -6 AN Female to -6 AN Male, 1/8 in. NPT Gauge Port
FiTech Fuel Injection 80117: Fuel Gauge
Fragola 492906-BL: -6AN Cap
4th: Swap the fuel pump to a Walbro GSL392. This pump way way quieter than the supplied unit. You can still kinda hear it if you listen for it, but before you heard it whether you wanted to or not. I use an AN8 Male on Inlet and AN6 Male on the Outlet to match the Fitech unit.
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- Thread starter
- #53
Good to know. These look way nicer. I'll be sure to add some to my electronics binIf you ever have to do a tap like this again, look into this product. Much better than those junky T tap things. edit IMO
View attachment 2738697
Amazon product ASIN B004D0HJBG
Glad to hear you sorted out the FiTech woes. I would caution you against leaving that pressure gauge installed indefinitely. I've seen several instances of under hood gauges failing, and catastrophic engine fires resulting. I agree, a great tool for testing, but think twice about leaving it installed forever.
Just bought a '71 myself, and love every single upgrade you have done! Look forward to continuing following along on the journey. Beautiful 40 you have and am jealous of the patina! Just couldn't find a reasonably priced patina 40 that was ready to drive and wasn't a basket case so I ended up with a resprayed truck, but very happy with it.
Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing!
@EmanC
Two questions
How do you like the light output of the bib lights as reverse lights? Did you put LED bulbs in or stay with the incandescent?
Those seatbelt brackets, are they something you could and are willing to have reproduced? Are they machined out of billet? I need to do something about seat belts, my b pillar on my cage is way too far back to mount the upper 3point ring to. Really like what you did there. Certainly better than nothing or just running a lap belt. Im interested in 4 of them for two different 40’s.
Two questions
How do you like the light output of the bib lights as reverse lights? Did you put LED bulbs in or stay with the incandescent?
Those seatbelt brackets, are they something you could and are willing to have reproduced? Are they machined out of billet? I need to do something about seat belts, my b pillar on my cage is way too far back to mount the upper 3point ring to. Really like what you did there. Certainly better than nothing or just running a lap belt. Im interested in 4 of them for two different 40’s.
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- #57
I like them, they get the job done. Right now just have Incadesecnt in there and will prob try some LEDs to get that more traditional blue-white light. But way more noticeable than the tub-mounted light. I also noticed the bulbs (#1034) in here are dual filament. Wonder if bridging the contacts will up the output.
As for the seat belt brackets. I can give you CAD files if you want to make them. They are billet aluminum. Just feel wary of selling "safety" equipment. I think they were about $250-300 for the set since they were one-offs with the type 3 anodize. With more pieces, the price should come down.
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I would definitely do the front disks first - you won't need to upgrade booster/master, just remove the residual valve in the master front brake outlet
it made a HUGE difference - the rear disks I added in the next year were also a nice upgrade, but much less noticeably so
those are for the later model doors
get the brackets that mount to the windshield hinges, no need to drill any new holes
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- #60
Put in some Amazon Special LED lights ($15). And they are much better than the stock incandescent for reverse. Left shows LED and right is Incandescent,
