1970 “it’s all there, I swear” project (1 Viewer)

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acy76

SILVER Star
Joined
May 2, 2007
Threads
32
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237
Location
Twin Cities, MN
Hey all—Bought this locally from a guy who wasn’t able to complete. Rough but quite original and everything appears to be included, some assembly required. Also came with almost all the needed sheet metal and was a running/driving truck when torn down.

Goal is to put it back on the road in solid condition. Not sure how meticulous I want to be about bodywork, leaning toward keeping as much of the original paint as I can and making it a reliable driver with no further modifications.

I will need some help and likely some reminders not to try to turn this into something it isn’t.
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Pre-teardown photo from the prior owner. I really like the (home-made) roof rack and plan to keep it. It has the remains of a roll-out awning on one side, too.

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As you can see from the first post, I have the front end apart. I got the bumper off and straightened it in the bench vise. I smashed my finger between a breaker bar and the bumper removing one of the top mounting carriage bolts--it let loose on me and the bar moved at approximately light speed, stopped only by said finger and the steel edge. Haven't had anything hurt that much working on junk in a long time.

First question: what in the world is this handle on the dash? There was a plow on this at some point based on wiring remnants and a big chunk of steel bolted right behind the front spring hangers (rearward side, it looks to have been done well), plow control? What gives me some pause is that the bolts on it look like Toyota parts to me.

Also a shot of the straight(er) bumper and the radiator, which is in nice shape save for some bent fins which I’ll sort out later.
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Thanks to @pardion I now have a nice and correct carb which I will start rebuilding tonight.

Some parts dreams: I would like to return this to a column shift truck and add a PTO winch. Know a guy/gal, send 'em my way please.
 
Not sure this helps but “Western Control” is now “Wescon Control” out of Wichita KS. They have been around for some years. Not sure of the application your PO had in mind, but they did produce brake and throttle cables. Looking at the proximity to your choke, it could have been a manual throttle cable. Just a guess. Regardless, it’s an interesting piece of PO history..

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@Chungas Revenge I didn't even notice that grommet text! Nicely done, thanks, and I agree with your assessment--given the other plow-related parts (and the fact that Western-brand plows are popular here, can't be coincidence), I am thinking snowplow pump/turn/lift control. This truck spent time in South Dakota (likely why it still exists at all in the Midwest). I will see what use I can put it to.
 
The handle and round tube look secondary. The bolts aren't matched up so I wonder if the operator broke the original or wanted it longer. The stamped lever has a stepped end like there would be a factory handle pressed/glued on that portion. The large ring made me think there was a reservoir for a hydraulic control, but there does appear to be a through point for a control cable/wire.
 
Rebuilt carb installed. Tiny Amazon small engine gas tank, one wire to the idle solenoid, and it runs. Pretty straightforward.

Been cold so progress has been slow. That, and I keep buying trucks.

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Question for y’all: if you zoom in on the clutch hose in the last photo, you can see it runs as a bypass of the old hose (still there in its bracket on the firewall).

Is this bypass a common thing on a 1970? Or did the PO cheap out? Any info appreciated.
 
Clutch cylinder is the outermost?
 
Clutch cylinder is the outermost?
Yessir.

I get that it’s easier to run one hose straight to the slave, is the original hose hard to get perhaps? Maybe this master only works this way?
 
I'm not seeing what you're saying. More pics please.
 
Yessir.

I get that it’s easier to run one hose straight to the slave, is the original hose hard to get perhaps? Maybe this master only works this way?
No, that is an OE clutch master with correct brass fitting on it. It was just easier to make a hydraulic line all the way than to first have a steel line to the firewall bracket and thereafter the flexible line. Many retailers carry the appropriate flexible line from Toyota still and the hard line you can fab up. We drive on the other side of the road like the Japanese do, so my photos won't help too much.
 
No, that is an OE clutch master with correct brass fitting on it. It was just easier to make a hydraulic line all the way than to first have a steel line to the firewall bracket and thereafter the flexible line. Many retailers carry the appropriate flexible line from Toyota still and the hard line you can fab up. We drive on the other side of the road like the Japanese do, so my photos won't help too much.
Thanks. I thought as much but wanted to confirm.

Any drawbacks doing it this way? More rubber to rot? This is just out of curiosity, the hose is new and I have every intention of using it until there is a compelling reason not to.
 
Thanks. I thought as much but wanted to confirm.

Any drawbacks doing it this way? More rubber to rot? This is just out of curiosity, the hose is new and I have every intention of using it until there is a compelling reason not to.
Happy to help.

Seems like a strong hydraulic hose so you should not have pulsing or swelling of the hose under pressure, which makes you ok to go, especially on a clutch which is less important than brakes
 
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This line came off the supply side of the fuel pump. Glass filter assembly is missing. The other pieces were plumbed in with leaking runber or plastic lines (the plastic looked perhaps factory but it was yellowed and old).

I want to use rubber hose and a cheap later model filter. It appears that the larger threads on these fittings (see solo fitting in photo) match the carb fuel inlet so could be used with the Toyota collar and a ferrule and some 5/16 hardline.

How have others bypassed the glass bowl fuel filters on these old trucks?
 
Toyota still sells the correct fuel filter, although the glass is replaced by metal-#23300-30012. As for the brass fittings in the rubber hose, you can replace them with a barbed fitting from amazon and put on new hose with a clamp. It's a BSTP thread (I can't remember but I think it's 5/16 BSTP).
When I bought my truck, I found the previous owner just cut the hard fuel line and clamped hose to it (no flare was put in the line) and it worked fine with an aftermarket filter. I have since changed it back to OEM.

The clear fuel line is available from RedlineLandCruisers in CO
 
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