Builds 1969 FJ40 named Mavis (3 Viewers)

[mrboatman]

City Racer has them

 

[120mm]

The truly great thing is that City Racer has them cheaper than McGeorge, plus they come with the pad.

Thanks for the assist!

All the websites I've found have repurposed inside T handles. I may either make something or repurpose some hardware fitting myself

 

[mrboatman]

Years ago when I got my top the handle had been repaired by a small plate bolted to that broken part holding them together.

 

[120mm]

I have a cover for the rear hatch, let me dig around for it this weekend.

You are my personal hero, sir!

 

[rkymtnflyfisher]

You are my personal hero, sir!

Don’t set your aspirations so low!!!!

 

[120mm]

I have a bunch of electrical troubleshooting to do so of course I replaced a bunch of missing windshield hinge screws. All it takes is a screw kit from SOR, a JIS old school hammer impact wrench, a good tap set and some select cuss words. I was going to pull all of the old screws, but after a bit of time I decided to just do that later/ not at all. What a PITA.

 

[MDH33]

I'm working on a crusty old Stout right now, I feel your pain! Seems like everything is seized up. My routine is to start soaking every nut and bolt with penetrating oil well ahead of time before a tool ever touches them. I'm using seafoam deep creep right now and it works pretty well.

 

[120mm]

I'm working on a crusty old Stout right now, I feel your pain! Seems like everything is seized up. My routine is to start soaking every nut and bolt with penetrating oil well ahead of time before a tool ever touches them. I'm using seafoam deep creep right now and it works pretty well.

It's not the rust that makes the windshield hinge screws such buggers. Well, there is rust, but it is the fact that the hinge plates and the screw receivers within the windshield frame constantly shift, which causes the screws to bind.

I opened the windshield and found a fairly neutral angle where the hinge was stressed the least (which was different for every single screw) then I ran the tap in them before attempting to screw it in. None worked on the first shot, as the screw plate would shift and it would bind up tighter than a gold digger without a pre-nup after she got married to a Billionaire.

 

[120mm]

Seems like I am going to have a repairable tank and a Toyota box the new one came in. Once it arrives, do you think someone would be interested in my old, not that bad shape tank for the cost of shipping? I got way too many Cruiser parts taking up space.

 

[120mm]

Back to wiring:

I have a really naive question.

I've never seen the blinkers/flashers on a 1969 FJ40 work. Are the blinkers on the fenders, or in the apron?

I "assumed" the marker lights in the bib just act as marker lights and the directional indicators are on the fenders.

If so, the wiring diagram calls for a green wire, a green/orange or green/yellow wire (depending on whether the right or left flasher circuit) and a ground going to each blinker.

My fender lights have a green/yellow and a white/black with a ring terminal on both, which I assume is the ground.

Seems like I'm missing a wire, or am not thinking straight here.

 

[mrboatman]

I "assumed" the marker lights in the bib just act as marker lights and the directional indicators are on the fenders.

Yes your assumption is correct. I can't check the wires colors my 40 is buried in storage now.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

I have read somewhere you can use either or on which lights you want to blink. By adding a wire to the apron lights being they are single filament bulbs.
The fender lights are usually double filament bulbs.
Your fender lights are GY/WB. The apron lights are both WB and GB. Hope that helps.

 

[120mm]

I have read somewhere you can use either or on which lights you want to blink. By adding a wire to the apron lights being they are single filament bulbs.
The fender lights are usually double filament bulbs.
Your fender lights are GY/WB. The apron lights are both WB and GB. Hope that helps.

Driver side fender light wiring should be green/orange, as are the driver side rear lights. Passenger side fender and rear light wiring should be green/yellow.

Pretty sure they are segregated by color because the driver side light wiring crosses through the bib, right next to the passenger side wiring.

Still... Every wiring diagram I have has both a green and a green/yellow or orange wire going to each fender directional light. This is what confuses me.

I also have a green/black wire in the loom; this is associated with the headlights somehow. This green/black wire is not reflected in any diagram I've seen.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Wiring harness runs from the passenger side on the 66 fj40 and connects to the electrical buss on fender to headlight harness.

 

[120mm]

Thank you for that. Rosetta Stone right there!

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Front bib harness.

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

Your welcome.
I’m working on wiring myself on a 65 right now.

 

[120mm]

Based on that and the wiring diagram, my rig is wired correctly from the look through both fenders

Driver's side

Passenger side

 

[RodrigzCrzr]

I replaced the wiring harness on this rig. Old one was melted together at the ignition switch all the way to middle of the harness.

 

[120mm]

The lights and parking lights work, though extremely unpredictably. And using a wire to bridge the switch, I'm pretty sure the switch is bad.

Also, the dimmer kills the lights on high.

I won't need high beams in the near future, but that makes me wonder.

I can get the hazard lights to work (but really fast), except for the driver's side rear (which is why it's fast, I think.) That light is dead as a doornail. That light is stubborn, but it's the furthest one in a long tenuous line of old wiring. Need to track green/orange back to find out where the wiring is bad.