- Thread starter
- #581
This just showed up
Builds 1969 FJ40 named Mavis (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 120mm
- Start date
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Looks Good 
That looks the part. Thanks for being the guinea pig! Now it's time for my checking account to take the hit.
- Thread starter
- #584
Fits great. Though with less dents in it, it meant I had to loosen up the straps to get it to fit.
I forgot to order a new fuel sensor gasket, but a country boy can survive.
I forgot to order a new fuel sensor gasket, but a country boy can survive.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Freaking awesome
- Thread starter
- #586
You know what's really awesome?
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
Heck yeah
- Thread starter
- #588
She moved under her own power today, but unfortunately only in low. And the clutch appears to be doing nothing.
Since the clutch worked when first installed, I'll observe to see if it's still engaging.
Good news is I think I've figured out the vacuum switch for low/neutral/high and the Front Drive thing.
Since the clutch worked when first installed, I'll observe to see if it's still engaging.
Good news is I think I've figured out the vacuum switch for low/neutral/high and the Front Drive thing.
- Thread starter
- #589
As I was dinking around with trying to get the clutch to work, I smoked the starter. Knew it was a potential weak point.
I have a new one coming from Toyota. Will update when it arrives. Getting impatient to get on the road.
I have a new one coming from Toyota. Will update when it arrives. Getting impatient to get on the road.
- Thread starter
- #590
Well, new starter arrives from Serra Toyota, new headlight switch and hatch handle from City Racer.
Bad news; it isn't the starter. Something else is making it click instead of vroom.
Good news, my FJ55 can def use a reduction starter so it isn't wasted.
Bad news; it isn't the starter. Something else is making it click instead of vroom.
Good news, my FJ55 can def use a reduction starter so it isn't wasted.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Have you bench tested both of those with some jumper cables yet?
- Thread starter
- #592
The motor runs, but the Bendix doesn't kick out on the old one. Don't know how that would cause the clicking sound. I'm going to take both to an O'Reilly's and have them test it tomorrow
- Thread starter
- #593
I have a ground cable running from the starter to frame. I'm checking my power wires and they look good.
Crap like this can discourage a guy. Pausing for the night and having a tot of Laphraoig.
At least the external hatch handle now works-ish, though the passenger side top panel is bent out of shape enough that the latch on that side "just" engages.
Crap like this can discourage a guy. Pausing for the night and having a tot of Laphraoig.
At least the external hatch handle now works-ish, though the passenger side top panel is bent out of shape enough that the latch on that side "just" engages.
- Thread starter
- #594
Actually, I have a better idea.
I have a 1975 FJ55 starter tester sitting in my drive way. Just need to loosen a bolt and a nut, remove, install and tighten a bolt and a nut. Easy peasy.
I have a 1975 FJ55 starter tester sitting in my drive way. Just need to loosen a bolt and a nut, remove, install and tighten a bolt and a nut. Easy peasy.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Jumper cables and a screwdriver 
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Just make sure that you're standing on it or it's secure somehow, like a vise.
- Thread starter
- #597
Funny; I'd forgotten the screwdriver thing.
Tried it on both starters, and they work fine.
Tried it on the new starter while mounted on the engine, and it just clicked like mad.
Acting like a stuck motor, but the motor ain't stuck.
Tomorrow when I'm not as mad, I'll install a jumper from power to keyed power and then jump it by putting on the battery negative, to see if the issue is with the keyed power circuit.
Since the original problem started after several successful starts and a few attempts to start it in 4 lo to get it back into the garage, (don't judge me) I highly suspect the keyed power circuit.
Tried it on both starters, and they work fine.
Tried it on the new starter while mounted on the engine, and it just clicked like mad.
Acting like a stuck motor, but the motor ain't stuck.
Tomorrow when I'm not as mad, I'll install a jumper from power to keyed power and then jump it by putting on the battery negative, to see if the issue is with the keyed power circuit.
Since the original problem started after several successful starts and a few attempts to start it in 4 lo to get it back into the garage, (don't judge me) I highly suspect the keyed power circuit.
If the unit clicks but doesn't start the engine theres a good chance the plunger in the solenoid isn't making good contact with the electrodes which it needs to bridge in order to put current to the motor.
That's how Nippondenso starters fsil.
If you were closer I'd offer to rebuild it, I work at one of the last starter and alternator rebuild facilities in the USA and we stock everything for those units.
If you just bought it, take the cover plate off the solenoid and inspect the contacts.
If you over tighten them they won't make contact. Starter will throw out the bendix and may even turn on the bench but won't get the power to actually crank that big ol motor.
That's how Nippondenso starters fsil.
If you were closer I'd offer to rebuild it, I work at one of the last starter and alternator rebuild facilities in the USA and we stock everything for those units.
If you just bought it, take the cover plate off the solenoid and inspect the contacts.
If you over tighten them they won't make contact. Starter will throw out the bendix and may even turn on the bench but won't get the power to actually crank that big ol motor.
- Thread starter
- #599
- Thread starter
- #600
Dang. I actually fixed a thing.
I loosened both copper terminals, which were cranked on there hard, which tilted the contacts, and retightened them to a lesser torque, while ensuring the contacts stayed level. Popped it on the rig and it fired up right away.
If you look at the contacts, you'll see the output has uniform arcing while the input has 1 or 2 very slight pits.
Instead of returning my core starter to Toyota, I am motivated to rebuild it with me new found knowledge and put it on Zeke, as he has an el cheapo direct drive starter right now.
I loosened both copper terminals, which were cranked on there hard, which tilted the contacts, and retightened them to a lesser torque, while ensuring the contacts stayed level. Popped it on the rig and it fired up right away.
If you look at the contacts, you'll see the output has uniform arcing while the input has 1 or 2 very slight pits.
Instead of returning my core starter to Toyota, I am motivated to rebuild it with me new found knowledge and put it on Zeke, as he has an el cheapo direct drive starter right now.
