jvincig01
SILVER Star
Neverind.
Builds 1969 FJ40 named Mavis (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 120mm
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #122
The standard 1/8" metal to 5mm glass will work.
I am pretty sure I have the early glass, as the PO was pretty specific about that.
Actual measurement of metal is all over the map, as it's not an even mating surface. Glass is 4mm, which is within the spec for the Trimlok I used.
A note: the Trimlok gets really ugly in the corners at first, but persevere and it will straighten itself out.
- Thread starter
- #123
I'm two weeks out from my move and it's raining constantly here. I've just about reached the limit of what I'm willing to do to Mavis, pre-move.
I've sourced a running 2F with a fresh top end, which I don't want to bring here until I've prepped my new shop. I agonized over rebuilding the 1F in it, but the 2F is local and cheaper than rebuilding the F engine, IF the engine in it is a good rebuild prospect. When I pull the engine, I'll still go through it, because #retired.
I like the idea of parts commonality with my 2F powered 1975 FJ55 as well. My shop has enough excess engine gaskets for a complete reseal of the new engine, for example.
I haven't been through the transmission or transaxle, yet, but the three on the tree is still goes through gears in a crisp and free fashion.
I threw the top cap on it without gasket just to make it look presentable, since it's sitting in my driveway while I am trying to sell my house. I need to pull the top cap off and deal with whatever is causing the left top panel to sit all crooked-y. At first glance, I can see the post comes about 1/2" from sitting flush.
This might contribute a little bit to this mis-alignment.
But I'm guessing the real culprit is this body damage to the top, which effectively stretches the metal.
Unfortunately, that is double wall pressed steel right there, and I can't get a hammer and planisher in there to shrink that metal back to shape. I could pull the dent out, but that wouldn't fully address the stretching which has occurred.
Plus this panel has been drilled on and repaired once before, and poorly. I might be looking for a new panel in the near future, but will probably try metal trickery to get it "close enough" for the time being.
I've sourced a running 2F with a fresh top end, which I don't want to bring here until I've prepped my new shop. I agonized over rebuilding the 1F in it, but the 2F is local and cheaper than rebuilding the F engine, IF the engine in it is a good rebuild prospect. When I pull the engine, I'll still go through it, because #retired.
I like the idea of parts commonality with my 2F powered 1975 FJ55 as well. My shop has enough excess engine gaskets for a complete reseal of the new engine, for example.
I haven't been through the transmission or transaxle, yet, but the three on the tree is still goes through gears in a crisp and free fashion.
I threw the top cap on it without gasket just to make it look presentable, since it's sitting in my driveway while I am trying to sell my house. I need to pull the top cap off and deal with whatever is causing the left top panel to sit all crooked-y. At first glance, I can see the post comes about 1/2" from sitting flush.
This might contribute a little bit to this mis-alignment.
But I'm guessing the real culprit is this body damage to the top, which effectively stretches the metal.
Unfortunately, that is double wall pressed steel right there, and I can't get a hammer and planisher in there to shrink that metal back to shape. I could pull the dent out, but that wouldn't fully address the stretching which has occurred.
Plus this panel has been drilled on and repaired once before, and poorly. I might be looking for a new panel in the near future, but will probably try metal trickery to get it "close enough" for the time being.
- Thread starter
- #124
More indicators that something is weird about the driver's side top panel. Note the lack of stiffening on this bit of reinforcement around the base interior.
While I was at @Voodoocruisers place, I looked through his top pieces and none of them looked like that
The passenger side otoh, looks right.
Once I get the Big Move done, I may be in the market for a driver's side top panel to replace.
While I was at @Voodoocruisers place, I looked through his top pieces and none of them looked like that
The passenger side otoh, looks right.
Once I get the Big Move done, I may be in the market for a driver's side top panel to replace.
- Thread starter
- #125
These arrived from CCOT today and I installed them.
Now I can hook up to something solid to help move it around without power.
Now I can hook up to something solid to help move it around without power.
- Thread starter
- #126
Did some more work on the brakes today. Was excited to see the rear brakes are new.
Wasn't able to get the front drums off. After about an hour of struggling, decided to try bleeding the brakes without pulling them. Managed to get the left rear brake bled, when the front brake line running by the battery ruptured, spraying fluid everywhere. Did a thorough wash down of the area and need to grab some brake line tomorrow.
Wasn't able to get the front drums off. After about an hour of struggling, decided to try bleeding the brakes without pulling them. Managed to get the left rear brake bled, when the front brake line running by the battery ruptured, spraying fluid everywhere. Did a thorough wash down of the area and need to grab some brake line tomorrow.
- Thread starter
- #127
I think I might've found the leak. Dunno. Isn't this supposed to be one piece? 
Now I need to find the correct length brake line and either reuse the fittings, get new ones or find a pre-formed version.
Now I need to find the correct length brake line and either reuse the fittings, get new ones or find a pre-formed version.
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- Thread starter
- #128
Well, the Big Move is done and Mavis is in my shop. Lighting still isn't optimal, but I'm prepping to pull the stuck F to make way for the 2F.
- Thread starter
- #129
I'm starting out slowly, trying to get a thorough understanding of how everything fits and works together. First question: why is one side of this grill insert flat while the other conforms to the shape of the headlight? Also, the bottom of the grill is just lopped off and doesn't look properly complete.
- Thread starter
- #130
Figured out the trick to getting the bib off.
Fun fact. Some PO once decided to ground the headlight to the power bus. Last time I checked, grounding to a power bus is no bueno, for obvious reasons. Glad it didn't burn down to the axles.
Fun fact. Some PO once decided to ground the headlight to the power bus. Last time I checked, grounding to a power bus is no bueno, for obvious reasons. Glad it didn't burn down to the axles.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
That terminal block is still available from Toyota.
- Thread starter
- #132
That is good to know
I have everything disconnected from the engine, and am dinking around with how to separate the engine from the bell housing. Pulled the flywheel cover and found a lifetime supply of acorns and shed snake skins
- Thread starter
- #133
This was way harder than it needed to be. About half of the captive nuts broke free or the bolts snapped off. Will need to redo those upon reinstall.
- Thread starter
- #134
At the point where I'm going back and forth on whether to pull tranny and engine as one piece.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
It's easy enough to pull as one unit. May as well break it all apart with more room once it's out.
Remove the bellhousing supports once you lift it, then it should slide right out peacefully.
Remove the bellhousing supports once you lift it, then it should slide right out peacefully.
- Thread starter
- #136
Exactly what I was looking for.
3 large bolts roughly triangular on the tail end to undo?
mrboatman
GOLD Star
I`ve done both ways and much easier to pull in one unit and install in one unit.
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Yup, the three bolts on each side of the bellhousing, you'll see them.
Make sure that the engine and everything is supported by the engine hoist before you start wrenching on those.
- Thread starter
- #139
Six? Where are these six? I see three attaching the transaxle to the transmission and four attaching the bell housing to the transmission
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Nah, the ears hanging off of the bellhousing that have the hockey pucks under them.
You can pull it all without removing them bit it makes it a helluva lot easier without them in the way.
You can pull it all without removing them bit it makes it a helluva lot easier without them in the way.
