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- #961
I've inspected the hub and it looks new inside. Other than cleaning it up, and relubing, I'm not going to dink with it. Just needed it out of the way to work on the knuckle
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I will need to do my birfs this summer. as they are starting to seep. Not terrible but its on my list. Thanks for sharing I have not seen many early fj40 writeups with the same warn hubs I have.Have I mentioned before how much I enjoy installing bearing seats/races? That satisfying ping when they seat us highly edifying.
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I'm having a moment right now where I'm cautious about how easy this job was. I expected more of a fight.
I had bought a 54mm special socket for my FJ55 to do the birfs on it, but it was too big. I found a 2" deep socket was perfect. I think these use a 50mm deep socket.I will need to do my birfs this summer. as they are starting to seep. Not terrible but its on my list. Thanks for sharing I have not seen many early fj40 writeups with the same warn hubs I have.
Thanks thats good to know! I think I have a bigger 54mm socket but not a 50mm one. On the KZj78 I had it was barley hand tight and did not even use a socket to get them off.I had bought a 54mm special socket for my FJ55 to do the birfs on it, but it was too big. I found a 2" deep socket was perfect. I think these use a 50mm deep socket.
Spindle nut shouldn't be super tight. But you can't get preload on them unless you can put some torque on them until they bind, and then back off until they pass spec. The spring scale you use to determine preload on your steering arm can be used for that, or if you're like me, you use your calibrated forearm.Thanks thats good to know! I think I have a bigger 54mm socket but not a 50mm one. On the KZj78 I had it was barley hand tight and did not even use a socket to get them off.
yeah this will be my first time doing birfs with somthing pre 1986. I think I bought one of the preload scales and never used it last time. Somtimes you just gotta live dangerously.Spindle nut shouldn't be super tight. But you can't get preload on them unless you can put some torque on them until they bind, and then back off until they pass spec. The spring scale you use to determine preload on your steering arm can be used for that, or if you're like me, you use your calibrated forearm.
Sometimes you just have to enjoy it as it is.
True. Glad I chose this approach now though I had my doubts.Sometimes you just have to enjoy it as it is.
I was pretty hungry for an FJ40 project and this was indeed a diamond in the rough.You’ve really turned Mavis around in a short time! I knew you were the right next owner. I was just keeping it stored for you for a decade.
I hate rust holes... I am planning on fixing that area around the rear wheels on mine in a few weeks as it gets warmer and I can work outside a little longer.More body work. @Thechief86 once pointed out how much rust holes bug him and all of a sudden they started bugging me.
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Looks great!I finally got motivated to fabricate lower quarter panels. My welding skills suck, but I have an English wheel and shrinker stretcher and felt like messing with them.
Used duct tape to make a pattern. Added 3/8 inch for a flange.View attachment 3563385
Used my Bosch metal trimmer to cut it out, then ran my English wheel with a rubber band on the top anvil to get a flat curve.
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Once the curve was right, formed the bottom flange with my shrinker.
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Once I got the flange to fit, boogered it in with my MiG. Hosed it down with rust converter and will try to blend it in with the preexisting paint patina.View attachment 3563392