Builds 1969 FJ40 named Mavis (3 Viewers)

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So for anyone else wanting to know how to get to the knuckle on a coarse spline drum brake 40, you need to remove the drum housing by backing off the adjuster a couple clicks and provided you removed the axle circlip, and the large nut, washer and nut, the hub should pop right off with the drum.

At this point, even though this rig was parked for awhile, I can find no reason to do a complete birf job. The wheel bearing is toast, but I'm going to throw new bearings in there, get it aligned and call it good for now.

I don't have any significant leaks anywhere and I don't have birf soup in the pumpkin. I think someone in the past already did a birf job on it but didn't get it running. It fits with everything else I've found so far.

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Have I mentioned before how much I enjoy installing bearing seats/races? That satisfying ping when they seat us highly edifying.

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I'm having a moment right now where I'm cautious about how easy this job was. I expected more of a fight.
I will need to do my birfs this summer. as they are starting to seep. Not terrible but its on my list. Thanks for sharing I have not seen many early fj40 writeups with the same warn hubs I have.
 
I will need to do my birfs this summer. as they are starting to seep. Not terrible but its on my list. Thanks for sharing I have not seen many early fj40 writeups with the same warn hubs I have.
I had bought a 54mm special socket for my FJ55 to do the birfs on it, but it was too big. I found a 2" deep socket was perfect. I think these use a 50mm deep socket.
 
I had bought a 54mm special socket for my FJ55 to do the birfs on it, but it was too big. I found a 2" deep socket was perfect. I think these use a 50mm deep socket.
Thanks thats good to know! I think I have a bigger 54mm socket but not a 50mm one. On the KZj78 I had it was barley hand tight and did not even use a socket to get them off.
 
Thanks thats good to know! I think I have a bigger 54mm socket but not a 50mm one. On the KZj78 I had it was barley hand tight and did not even use a socket to get them off.
Spindle nut shouldn't be super tight. But you can't get preload on them unless you can put some torque on them until they bind, and then back off until they pass spec. The spring scale you use to determine preload on your steering arm can be used for that, or if you're like me, you use your calibrated forearm.

Also, there is a cast line on the hub that should be more or less flush with the axle. Wish I would've taken a picture while I was in there.
 
Spindle nut shouldn't be super tight. But you can't get preload on them unless you can put some torque on them until they bind, and then back off until they pass spec. The spring scale you use to determine preload on your steering arm can be used for that, or if you're like me, you use your calibrated forearm.
yeah this will be my first time doing birfs with somthing pre 1986. I think I bought one of the preload scales and never used it last time. Somtimes you just gotta live dangerously.
 
I finally got motivated to fabricate lower quarter panels. My welding skills suck, but I have an English wheel and shrinker stretcher and felt like messing with them.

Used duct tape to make a pattern. Added 3/8 inch for a flange.
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Used my Bosch metal trimmer to cut it out, then ran my English wheel with a rubber band on the top anvil to get a flat curve.

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Once the curve was right, formed the bottom flange with my shrinker.
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Once I got the flange to fit, boogered it in with my MiG. Hosed it down with rust converter and will try to blend it in with the preexisting paint patina.
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Sometimes you just have to enjoy it as it is.
True. Glad I chose this approach now though I had my doubts.
You’ve really turned Mavis around in a short time! I knew you were the right next owner. I was just keeping it stored for you for a decade.
I was pretty hungry for an FJ40 project and this was indeed a diamond in the rough.
 
Way to go, man! I've fixed all my rust except my tailgate at this point. Still halfway holding out to find one out west somewhere, but if I'm not successful, I'll cut my cancer out and weld in some good steel eventually. Lately it's been nice to just enjoy the ride and be glad I've reached reliability. I'm still basking in the win that was driving to Moab and back. 😎
 
I finally got motivated to fabricate lower quarter panels. My welding skills suck, but I have an English wheel and shrinker stretcher and felt like messing with them.

Used duct tape to make a pattern. Added 3/8 inch for a flange.View attachment 3563385

Used my Bosch metal trimmer to cut it out, then ran my English wheel with a rubber band on the top anvil to get a flat curve.

View attachment 3563389
Once the curve was right, formed the bottom flange with my shrinker.
View attachment 3563390
Once I got the flange to fit, boogered it in with my MiG. Hosed it down with rust converter and will try to blend it in with the preexisting paint patina.View attachment 3563392
Looks great!
 
I don't have before pics, but I cleaned up the original hitch I found and mounted it. Had to evaporust the bolts and nuts it came with and I have a 2 inch ball that is still soaking.
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You'll notice the fancy Gadsden flag license plate I got on Monday. Really sets off the paint imo.

Also, sprung an industrial sized oil leak, and after a bit of head scratching and contemplating resealing the timing cover, discovered the oil filter mount and fuel pump bolts had backed off. And were slightly more than finger tight.

I used a torque wrench to spec, but these are getting some thread locker.
 

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