Builds 1967 FJ45LPB resto-mod 1HDFT H55 build

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All these parts prepped for top coat to match the frame.

Once painted we can assemble the rolling chassis.

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A BIG decision was made recently regarding body & paint. We are not cutting any corners in this department after all the work. We will be doing the metal work before sending off to the body man.

Cheers
 
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I am pretty happy with it, this is a 56yr old frame after all. With the sand blasting, sanding and por15 acid bath followed by a wash we got great adhesion. It has had a little time now to cure and gas off and when you get por15 right it is really tough. What is nice as well is their chassis black (satin) in a rattle can can be used for touch up over the years no problem. Somebody was in the shop today and asked if it was powder coat. 🤗

Nice to have finally reached this stage in the build.

Cheers
 
1HDFT back from the machine shop, starting the build on it now.

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Been waiting forever for sheet metal, still don’t have it.

Cheers
 
Crank installed.

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All our rings gapped and piston groove clearances checked. Good to go and ready to install pistons after lunch.

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Cheers
 
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It’s a beauty! 🥰

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We check everything before we take to the machine shop, then he checks it again and finally we double check it all upon assembly. Deck on the block is near perfect so didn’t get anything taken off.

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Cheers
 
New freeze plugs being installed on the whole engine.

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The head is really nice as well. It got all new valves, valve springs, valve stem seals, ect-all.

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We did get a few body parts today but they did mess up our order so we need to sort that out.

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Cheers
 
I've not crawled through the FSM. I suspect there is an easy enough way to determine which notch head gasket to use post machine work? I.e. without any funky measuring tools or SST?
 
I've not crawled through the FSM. I suspect there is an easy enough way to determine which notch head gasket to use post machine work? I.e. without any funky measuring tools or SST?


We run 5-dot on them all. Only 3thou difference between a 3-dot and 5-dot. Most we have seen come with a 3-dot from the factory.

We only deck the top of the block if needed. 3thou has always been enough to fix any warping on the half dozen or more we have done now. Most don’t need it. If crusty, I have a high dollar 2000g wet stone I will clean up the deck with. This one didn’t need it, it’s a 100,000 mile engine and stellar top to bottom.

And yes, you can determine which you want to use via piston protrusion.

Cheers
 
Pretty well built now. We are going to tear the turbo down and get it + the exhaust manifold ceramic coated before final install on those.

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Cheers
 

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