1966 FJ45LV restoration/buildup project (2 Viewers)

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Well....that floorpan looks familiar...all the way from CO!

You've made a ton of progress and it looks great!

Hope you're doin well...just thought I'd post up to say Hi.
 
Well....that floorpan looks familiar...all the way from CO!

You've made a ton of progress and it looks great!

Hope you're doin well...just thought I'd post up to say Hi.

Good to here from you. Very glad to see the pan go in. Plodding along. Undercoating should go on soon and then it can go on the frame. Take care.
 
Pan is done.

Quick update. The pan is in and undercoated. I sprayed it using the UPOL Raptor bed liner kit. Worked very well, super easy. One kit was enough to cover the entire pan.
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Man, that's gotta feel good. How long did you just stare at it? :cool:
 
That scene is vaguely familiar! Glad you went with the UPol stuff? I know I am, it's holding up great!!
 
I am very impressed w UPol. So easy to apply. There Gravitex is even easier, one part. Just screw the bottle to the gun and shoot. I am going to pickup one bottle to test shoot next week. I would like to see a little more build thickness, but I am not sure it is necessary.
 
Fuel line question

Rear brake lines are sorted, finally. Two trips to brake shop for correct custom lines etc, but prefect now. Question, Trying to decide what to do about my fuel lines. Original was hose, which ran through frame rails. Trying to decide if I should just go back with flexible line through frame like original or if there is a good reason to run 5/16" hard line down inside of frame rail? Opinions please.
 
merbesfield said:
Rear brake lines are sorted, finally. Two trips to brake shop for correct custom lines etc, but prefect now. Question, Trying to decide what to do about my fuel lines. Original was hose, which ran through frame rails. Trying to decide if I should just go back with flexible line through frame like original or if there is a good reason to run 5/16" hard line down inside of frame rail? Opinions please.

I ran hard line down the outside of the frame rail. I don't like that long of a run of rubber line. Metal is cheaper, less prone to abrasion, less prone to swelling and easier to clamp to the frame. If you plan on running efi I wouldn't even consider soft hose over 35psi. The high pressure safe hose is spendy. Bends are not going to kink as the lines move with metal line either.
 
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I ran hard line down the outside of the frame rail. I don't like that long of a run of rubber line. Metal is cheaper, less prone to abrasion, less prone to swelling and easier to clamp to the frame. If you plan on running efi I wouldn't even consider soft hose over 35psi. The high pressure safe hose is spendy.

I am running a 1979 2F with what I think is a standard mechanical fuel pump. Mechanics is not my strong point so I am really struggling with this though I think it is simple. Here is a cross post I put up on the 40 forum.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/578350-fuel-line-pictures.html#post7577973

The confusing part, besides most of it is that my tank is the old LV tank. There is a hole on top and no other threaded pickups or anything. On the LV did the fuel PU come thru the sending unit hole? Must have. There are the two vent tubs on top, but they each went to the funky vents in the body sides, then from there not sure how it works. Here are some pics of my tank and the inside frame rail where I was planning on running the line. Yes my truck had flex line inside the frame rail, but I agree I don't like the idea. My idea was to run hard line front to rear and then make flex connections at the pump and tank. Just need to figure out the details.
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Here are a couple more pics showing the frame rail and the mounting brackets. I used Nickle/Copper brake lines and have located the same tubing, but 5/16" which think will work for fuel. Also need to figure out what fittings or style crimp for the ends. Hose is definitely easier, but that is not my style. Thanks for the help.
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Yup. Run some 5/16 right in the lower part of those nice looking frame clamps. A little bubble flare on the end of some bulk line with hose from the frame to the pump and where the pick up is on the tank. I can't help about the pick up for the tank as I have a big long range tank in mine. Usually its on the bottom of the tank with a mechanical pump system. It typically comes through the sender unit on FI with electric pumps.
 
Continued progress

More progress. Thanks Gumby for the help, I found the pickup, it was on the side of the tank that I never looked at duh. Tank was cruddy on the outside and I just missed it but now it all makes sense now. I have it figured out how I will run a 5/16” hard line down the body. I sourced some 5/16” Copper/Nickel tubing to match what I used for the brake lines. I decided to flip the brackets so that the fuel line is higher up on the frame for better protection.
There are two vents on the top which each run to the in body vents, which I blasted and painted last night. I had to repair one of them as it had rusted through the tubing and after blasting there were perforations. Once I got that repaired I moved onto the tank to frame brackets and skid plate standoff brackets. The captured nuts gave up the ghost long ago so I had to replace those, blast and paint. Next I was on to the tank straps. The threaded stubs were bent a bit, so straightened them out, quick blast and paint. I was planning on buying new wool felt cushion strips, but after inspecting the ones that came off the truck, they are in near perfect condition so I will reuse them. 46 years old and still very serviceable. I had the tank dipped and the interior coated a few years back but never dealt with the outside. So I stripped the outside and prepped it for a coat of epoxy chassis black.
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I have run into a possible issue with regards to the rear disc brake conversion. If I use the four mounting holes on my axle flange to mount the disc brake bracket, you will not be able to remove the lower caliper bolt without hitting the leaf springs. This is a problem for obvious reasons. To do a brake job in the future, you would have to remove the entire brake bracket assembly. The only position on the axle that allows the bolt to be pulled without obstruction limits me to being able to only three of the four mounting bolts. I would prefer all four, but may have to live with three. Does anyone have any knowledge or opinion as to whether this is a problem or not. I could weld another piece of steel to the axle flange and then drill it out, but what a pain and my axles are painted already. I am thinking I will just go with three grade 10 bolts and deal with it since most of the braking force is on the front axle. First pic shows the interference, the second two show the caliper mounted higher for clearance, but the one bolt that is missing.
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About time to make this thing a roller.

I am almost ready to set the body on the frame. I need to decide on which wheels to go for. Debating between stock steelies or old school ATX with a Teflon coating ala Icon look. Leaning towards the ATX. I don't want a box stock LV, but I also don't want anything too wild. Anyhow, on to the progress. Gas tank is in. Gas lines will be next, then a little more undercoat for the to inner fenders and the body can go on the frame.
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Speedometer doesnt care what size wheel only what size tire.
 

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