kunzma
SILVER Star
Passenger side mirrors were not stock. I see a lot of them though. I put it on my 65 because I think it is an appropriate safety modification. The same as dual brake master cylinder or headlight upgrades.
1966 FJ40 preservation/build
- Thread starter daner
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HelloKitty65
SILVER Star
Probably no hood blocks or windshield catches yet for this year. But there are several OEM types of hood blocks with different spacings between the studs, maybe one will fit the holes you have, if want to keep them. But you still won't have windshield catches.
The then new defrost vents interfered with folding the windshield, so blocks weren't needed (even though the hinges clearly work).
You could fill PO hood holes and go stock. A boat cushion and bungee cords are my plan for when I fold my windshield down in my '64. Go figuire, my '65 FST has a heater, the interfering defrost vents pictured, and seemingly original hood blocks and windshield catches.
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- #103
I like your idea about boat cushions and bungee cords…Folding down the windshield on a nice day is one of the best things about FJ40s.
Despite spending two hours removing the home-made fold down windshield bumpers, feel like I made some progress. Removed the spare tire carrier, rollbar, heater and a few other parts, none of which came out without a fight due to rust.
Despite spending two hours removing the home-made fold down windshield bumpers, feel like I made some progress. Removed the spare tire carrier, rollbar, heater and a few other parts, none of which came out without a fight due to rust.
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- #104
Day 2. Things are not going smoothly. I have been spoiled by growing up in Southern AZ and NM at a time you could pick up rust free FJ40s, FJ45s and Patrols for next to nothing, those days are gone. As rough as this one is, I’m lucky to have picked this one up when I did as now rusty, hammered and non-running projects are going for 10k.
To get back to the point, this old truck is rustier than it looks, and almost every nut or bolt I have tried to remove has broken or stripped. I had to stop and regroup before I did more damage. My memory isn’t great, but iirc the “Phillips head” screws on old Toyota’s are not standard Phillips-is that correct or is my memory as rusty as this old FJ40?
To get back to the point, this old truck is rustier than it looks, and almost every nut or bolt I have tried to remove has broken or stripped. I had to stop and regroup before I did more damage. My memory isn’t great, but iirc the “Phillips head” screws on old Toyota’s are not standard Phillips-is that correct or is my memory as rusty as this old FJ40?
middlecalf
SILVER Star
JIS heads
- Thread starter
- #107
Happy Veteran’s day-a tip of the hat to all of those who have served in any capacity-your sacrifices are appreciated.
After a difficult battle, I was able to remove the original front turn signals. Unfortunately, the threaded shaft on the passenger side broke, so I have decided to order new ones from Toyota. If anyone in the early 40/25 group could use them, they are free if you pay for the shipping. I will hold on to them until the replacements are in hand.
After a difficult battle, I was able to remove the original front turn signals. Unfortunately, the threaded shaft on the passenger side broke, so I have decided to order new ones from Toyota. If anyone in the early 40/25 group could use them, they are free if you pay for the shipping. I will hold on to them until the replacements are in hand.
- Thread starter
- #108
A quick question-my passenger front fender is a little rough-it is probably the roughest part of the truck and is the only place with body work (thin layer of bondo. A crease was welded) does anyone have experience with replacement fenders on early 40s? How do they fit?
middlecalf
SILVER Star
I wonder if that weld couldn’t be ground down a bit more and just some fill primer used to smooth it out? That way less painting to match patina (or are you repainting the rig?). I found a bit of bondo on my ‘65 fender after I bent it a bit - a “pole vault” with an old fence post I didn’t see in the tall grass - the bondo’s cracking now. Hate that stuff, but it was/is popular to get that baby’s-backside-smooth look. I like seeing spot weld divots in old steel rigs 
.
One thought on those turn signals, is I would imagine the threaded shaft on the new ones would probably fit the old ones, and I think they unscrew from the housing. That way you could keep the originals.
But if you do want to move on, I have aftermarket thingys on my ‘65 FJ40 and have an intention to move things back to original over time, this being one of them. So I’d surely be happy to pay for shipping. Let me know. Paul
.One thought on those turn signals, is I would imagine the threaded shaft on the new ones would probably fit the old ones, and I think they unscrew from the housing. That way you could keep the originals.
But if you do want to move on, I have aftermarket thingys on my ‘65 FJ40 and have an intention to move things back to original over time, this being one of them. So I’d surely be happy to pay for shipping. Let me know. Paul
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- Thread starter
- #110
Apologies for not getting back, some family issues popped up and the Land Cruiser got put on the backburner. Looking it over, I think that the front passenger fender can be saved. You have dibs on the turn signals as soon as I receive the new ones.
Just to give an overview of what direction this is going, my goal is to make it a reasonable clean driver with as little filler/Bondo as possible as it will be used off road. It will get scratches. I’m thinking Spring Green.
Just to give an overview of what direction this is going, my goal is to make it a reasonable clean driver with as little filler/Bondo as possible as it will be used off road. It will get scratches. I’m thinking Spring Green.
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- #112
Another productive day. I have limited body working experience and did not know if I could save the two running boards, but after massaging them straight for a couple of hours, Im pretty happy with them. They do have pitting on the top surface but that will be covered anyway. Just need to get some rust inhibitor then these will be ready for primer.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
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- #114
Thanks!
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- #115
More good times. While this truck wasn’t a great candidate for a full restoration as it was missing its drivetrain and has some moderate rust issues, after working on classic 4x4s since the early 1980s, there are some things on this truck that I really appreciate. Other than a 6” spot of bondo and the weld on the front passenger fender, there is zero body work on the truck and it still sports the original paint, so there are no nasty surprises hiding under new paint jobs. Along the same lines, there isn’t a single non-stock hole in the dash, and it still has all of the original hardware. No CB radio holes, mystery switches or nothing. In my book that is a win because most older FJ40s were treated pretty roughly in the days before the market for them got crazy.
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- #118
I received the jis bit set in the mail yesterday. Big improvement. Now instead of stripping the heads, I’m breaking the rusty, threaded portion of the screws off lol.
On a more philosophical note, seeing the metal come to light after 56 years, made me appreciate the engineering and craftsmanship of Toyota products. It is a thing of beauty. For a brief time after the Land Cruiser market elevated beyond what I was willing to pay, I had a series of early Willys trucks, but they were so poorly engineered that I gave up on them.
On a more philosophical note, seeing the metal come to light after 56 years, made me appreciate the engineering and craftsmanship of Toyota products. It is a thing of beauty. For a brief time after the Land Cruiser market elevated beyond what I was willing to pay, I had a series of early Willys trucks, but they were so poorly engineered that I gave up on them.
- Thread starter
- #119
I’ve been in a Costa Rica for the last few weeks drooling over all of the Land Cruisers here. There are still many on the road. I have not seen anything earlier than a 1974, and all of the 40 and 45 series that I’ve seen have been pretty rough to say the least. Bad body work and cheap paint abound, especially in the coastal areas.
With the obvious limitations of doing bodywork and paint on a budget in a crowded, poorly equipped garage, Im trying to not go down that route. Can’t wait to get home and get to work again.
With the obvious limitations of doing bodywork and paint on a budget in a crowded, poorly equipped garage, Im trying to not go down that route. Can’t wait to get home and get to work again.
- Thread starter
- #120
Back at it! Had a break in the weather between NCAA games, and was able to work on the passenger door. This one is near perfect. No pitting, no rust, just a few holes where someone mounted a mirror, but that will be an easy fix.
The plan is to get the major work done outside and then clean up the hard to reach corners with a Dremel with a brash brush on it, so not worried about a few places that still have paint.
Iirc, the rubber gasket surrounding the vent window is NLA?
Also, will need replacement glass for the drivers side if anyone has one laying around.
Thanks!
The plan is to get the major work done outside and then clean up the hard to reach corners with a Dremel with a brash brush on it, so not worried about a few places that still have paint.
Iirc, the rubber gasket surrounding the vent window is NLA?
Also, will need replacement glass for the drivers side if anyone has one laying around.
Thanks!
