1966 FJ40 preservation/build
- Thread starter daner
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- #43
Cleaned out tank with some nice toxic rust-eating acid. Might have toasted a few brain cells in the process, but it seems to be running ok.
And changing gears back to the seats. After messing with the 1992 Land Cruiser seats, I've decided that, despite being comfy, they don't look right as they are too high and have plastic:
And changing gears back to the seats. After messing with the 1992 Land Cruiser seats, I've decided that, despite being comfy, they don't look right as they are too high and have plastic:
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- Thread starter
- #44
After reconfiguring and combining the frame from the early FJ40 split seat with the intervals from the FJ80, was able to drop it 3-4" while retaining the adjustabilty of the FJ80.
The plan will be to put heated seat inserts and carefully chopping the top of the seat so it is stock height ( with the corrugated sheet metal panel on back and 60/40 split so at first glance it will look stock. Looking for a match for the coral fabric at local stores tomorrow.
The plan will be to put heated seat inserts and carefully chopping the top of the seat so it is stock height ( with the corrugated sheet metal panel on back and 60/40 split so at first glance it will look stock. Looking for a match for the coral fabric at local stores tomorrow.
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- #45
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- Thread starter
- #46
After mocking up the corrugated sheet metal back on the seat, it looks like I may not need to modify the seat height (chop the top/invasive surgery). Just wrap it up in some coral vinyl and call it good.
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- Thread starter
- #47
On the other hand, I'm not satisfied with the way the passenger side came out on attempt #1 (the height of the seats will be the same, have the passenger side mounted on 1 1/2" rubber stops, will match both sides).
The space between the seats will be filled with a portion of the original seat modified to be a consul with 110 and USB outlets. Hopefully can make it look stock-ish.
My attempt to cut and weld the center was a FAIL as the metal was thin and rusty, so my old stick welder blasted right through when I welded it. So wish Santa will send a new welder for xmas.
View attachment 1567089
The space between the seats will be filled with a portion of the original seat modified to be a consul with 110 and USB outlets. Hopefully can make it look stock-ish.
My attempt to cut and weld the center was a FAIL as the metal was thin and rusty, so my old stick welder blasted right through when I welded it. So wish Santa will send a new welder for xmas.
View attachment 1567089
middlecalf
SILVER Star
It’s been ages since I’ve checked to see what the 25 folks have been up to and glad I did to find your thread. Great build/fix/resto/redo/update/preserve (and sense of humor)! I have a 65 (April) and these rigs share a lot in common. One question your pics have answered is whether or not all models have holes for sun visor mounts. Looks like neither of ours do. That’s the one non-sexy addition I need the most, sun visors! Also, my hi/lo transfer case shifter was moved to the floor by a PO, wish I still had the nifty lever on the dash. But my front drive vacuum pull knob is the same as yours. I didn’t think that was original, but after seeing yours maybe it is. Of course my rig spent time in Oregon as well so maybe both POs shopped at the same parts store lol. Anyway, great stuff in the thread, watching closely now! Paul
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- #49
Thanks for the kind words, gives me encouragement to keep posting!
I suspect your vacuum shift is stock-I cant imagine someone installing a three on the tree and vacuum shift...but ive seen stranger things
I have wondered if this is the right place to post. I know it is one of the newer "early" 40s, and I'm not a restoration purist. I do feel like I'm on the fringes of the 25 forum.
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- #50
Think everyone can relate to this one: I have the entire day to work on the truck. Figured oI could swap out out all of the steering rod ends for new ones, mount the new shocks and button up the front end by noon. It's almost noon and I am still fighting the first bolt....it's stripped. It spins. And the metal is evidently harder than any sawzall blade....
Die grinder or a grinder, grind away on one side of the nut and take a cold chisel and break it in half. You did take out the cotter pin - usually just shear off if you don't anyhow.
On the positive, if it's spinning, it shouldn't be hard to separate the tie rod end.
On the positive, if it's spinning, it shouldn't be hard to separate the tie rod end.
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- #53
After 10 months of work, the truck is finally roadworthy enough to make the one-mile drive to DMV. Barely.
I was having anxiety as the only document I have is a pink-slip from 1979. The last project I rescued from the weeds behind a farm house took over a year to get a title, so I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was-no issues whatsoever. The old truck drove home legally for the first time since 1981.
I was having anxiety as the only document I have is a pink-slip from 1979. The last project I rescued from the weeds behind a farm house took over a year to get a title, so I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was-no issues whatsoever. The old truck drove home legally for the first time since 1981.
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wooohooooo!!!!!
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Rockin’ 
- Thread starter
- #57
And on to the leaky heater, which would be easy if almost every philips head screw didn't strip when I tried to remove the core with a screwdriver or impact driver. Had to break out with the Dremel and square off the edges and use vice grips, but got them eventually.
I know this is boring, but for those who are daydreaming of restoring an old fj, this is reality. Lots of time spent on little things that you don't think about when you try to estimate how much work it will get one back on the road.
I know this is boring, but for those who are daydreaming of restoring an old fj, this is reality. Lots of time spent on little things that you don't think about when you try to estimate how much work it will get one back on the road.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Not boring at all. I’m with you on those “little things.” I too worked over my heater several years ago in the ‘65 but now the pull for directing the heat flow up to the windshield is frozen (stuck). I might pull the unit someday to fix, maybe. Maybe not lol. A rag works wonders for defogging right now and my feet are warm. And the dogs don’t care as long as we’re headed to chase birds.
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- #59
My fairly boring stuff-and to be frank I'm not really sure why I bother as the top is so rough it is beyond saving as far as restoration goes, but I'm hoping to salvage it as far as daily driveable goes.
The fiberglass part of the top is creased and cracked. It leaks and cannot be driven as it will certainly do its impression of a sardine can if I get over 50mph...so I'm reinforcing the fiberglass in the creased areas with a fiberglass cloth and a healthy layer of fiberglass resin. Let's see how this goes:
The fiberglass part of the top is creased and cracked. It leaks and cannot be driven as it will certainly do its impression of a sardine can if I get over 50mph...so I'm reinforcing the fiberglass in the creased areas with a fiberglass cloth and a healthy layer of fiberglass resin. Let's see how this goes:
