1966 FJ40 preservation/build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter daner
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
It was nice to have a mellow day working on the truck for a change. Didn't get too much done, but that is beside the point when you are having fun.
Got most of the dash reassembled:
![IMG_1197[1].JPG](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1440' height='1920' viewBox%3D'0 0 1440 1920'%2F%3E "IMG_1197[1].JPG")
Got the new tires mounted and installed:
![IMG_1203[1].JPG](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1920' height='1440' viewBox%3D'0 0 1920 1440'%2F%3E "IMG_1203[1].JPG")
And power washed/scrubbed some of the mildew and mold of of her:
Got most of the dash reassembled:
Got the new tires mounted and installed:
And power washed/scrubbed some of the mildew and mold of of her:
- Thread starter
- #23
Had to take a step back from cosmetic and light mechanical stuff and redo the motor and transmission mounts as the whole drivetrain (OM617/Toyota 5-speed) ended up being 2' too high. When I laid out the motor/transmission, it had the original flat springs, so when I installed the new 2 1/2" lift springs in back, it resulted in 5" lift....which is no bueno as the rear driveshaft has too much angle. I know it will settle some, but as it sat it was undriveable. I partially compensated the excess rear lift by removing the PO's shackle lift.
I hoped to get the truck running today, but got hung up extracting a stripped bolt-or to be more accurate, attempting to extract a stripped bolt as after four hours, the bolt is still there and I am inside drinking a cold beer.
Don't know if anyone has experience with this bolt or ideas on what to do about it: It is the long bolt that goes through the top of the brake pedal. I had tried to remove it so I could remove the brake pedal and paint the driver's floorboard. Except I couldn't get the bolt out as it backs into a structural support for the dashboard, that, in turn had two rusted/stripped bolts I could remove.
So, I left it and painted the brake pedal. Figured it didn't matter as I will be painting the brake/clutch pedals and steering column anyway. But, when I tried to get the brake pedal bolt back in, I stripped it, and so there it sits. It is up in the dash so I cant get pressure on it to help it find the threads as I turn it. I cant remove it....any ideas?
thanks, Daner
I hoped to get the truck running today, but got hung up extracting a stripped bolt-or to be more accurate, attempting to extract a stripped bolt as after four hours, the bolt is still there and I am inside drinking a cold beer.
Don't know if anyone has experience with this bolt or ideas on what to do about it: It is the long bolt that goes through the top of the brake pedal. I had tried to remove it so I could remove the brake pedal and paint the driver's floorboard. Except I couldn't get the bolt out as it backs into a structural support for the dashboard, that, in turn had two rusted/stripped bolts I could remove.
So, I left it and painted the brake pedal. Figured it didn't matter as I will be painting the brake/clutch pedals and steering column anyway. But, when I tried to get the brake pedal bolt back in, I stripped it, and so there it sits. It is up in the dash so I cant get pressure on it to help it find the threads as I turn it. I cant remove it....any ideas?
thanks, Daner
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thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
That sucks. Been there done that. 
Obviously taking a deep breath is key.
It looks as though the bolt needs to be pulled towards the camera as you turn it. It appears to be leaning towards the firewall. Can you slip a boxed end ratcheting gearwrench over it. That might give you more control as you turn it. Perhaps try and wedge something behind behind the bolt if possible. Or can you get a small crow bar on it as you turn. Good news is, your seats are out so you can lay on your back
Obviously taking a deep breath is key. It looks as though the bolt needs to be pulled towards the camera as you turn it. It appears to be leaning towards the firewall. Can you slip a boxed end ratcheting gearwrench over it. That might give you more control as you turn it. Perhaps try and wedge something behind behind the bolt if possible. Or can you get a small crow bar on it as you turn. Good news is, your seats are out so you can lay on your back
- Thread starter
- #25
Thanks-looking at the pic I think you may be right-it does look like it is twisted. The camera picks that up pretty well. I do have a racheting box end wrench on it-and have tried a flat bar, crow bar and a large screwdriver to give it a little pressure-but, as you noted, won't help if it isnt lined up.
It is a PITA, but, in all of the years I've worked on Land Cruisers, I've only found a few nuts/bolts that were difficult to reach on them. They generally have good engineering and are designed to be easy to work on. Cant say that with Willys/Jeeps and Scouts....
It is a PITA, but, in all of the years I've worked on Land Cruisers, I've only found a few nuts/bolts that were difficult to reach on them. They generally have good engineering and are designed to be easy to work on. Cant say that with Willys/Jeeps and Scouts....
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thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
Hit it with some oil if you haven't already.
- Thread starter
- #28
A combination of WD40 and actually lining up the bolt seems to have saved the bolt. Problem solved, thanks.
I need to put the FJ40 on the backburner for a while, and since I didn't get it running, I can't post the obligatory "first drive" pic. Instead I thought I'd post the "Super-Mega Extreme Pirate 4x4" poseur shot....yea, that is a real rock.
I need to put the FJ40 on the backburner for a while, and since I didn't get it running, I can't post the obligatory "first drive" pic. Instead I thought I'd post the "Super-Mega Extreme Pirate 4x4" poseur shot....yea, that is a real rock.
Archie 1962 FJ25
Autocrat
This deserves to be a profile pic. What a poser shot.
- Thread starter
- #30
Nothing too exciting going on this week. The one thing I hoped to accomplish was to install new bushings and tie rod ends to tighten up the front end. While I haven't driven it yet, I could see enough to know the steering must have been fricken sloppy, as the bushings were completely missing in some of the eyelets, while several ldof the original rubber bushings appears to have been replaced with a short section of garden hose....to make things worse, the rivets on the rear mount of the drivers spring were toast. Only the weight of the vehicle kept the frame and spring together.
This only reinforces my need to slow down and go through everything with a torque wrench to make sure it is roadworthy.
Speaking of which, does anyone have a spare set of front shackles they could sell for a reasonable price? These have seen better days.
This only reinforces my need to slow down and go through everything with a torque wrench to make sure it is roadworthy.
Speaking of which, does anyone have a spare set of front shackles they could sell for a reasonable price? These have seen better days.
- Thread starter
- #31
Still lots to do, one of the bigger items being the front seats. I will be eventually go with stock 60/40 bench seats covered with coral vinyl-but I still need passenger seat parts, and the seat cover kit from Spectre which costs $500 iirc (in addition to the extortion-like prices people are asking for bench seats, the last time I saw a front seat on CL in rebuildable shape, the owner wanted almost as much as I paid for my truck.
In the meantime, the project is over budget and needs to be on the road asap. The plan is to keep it all Toyota and mount the seats using the original mounts so they can be swapped out the next time I have $1300 burning a hole in my pocket for a bench seat.
Newer Land Cruiser parts, on the other hand, are very affordable: scored a pair of 1992 seats in fair condition for $50 off CL. Think I'll remove the headrest, install heated seat covers or wrap them in coral and use them for a while. They are quite comfy.
In the meantime, the project is over budget and needs to be on the road asap. The plan is to keep it all Toyota and mount the seats using the original mounts so they can be swapped out the next time I have $1300 burning a hole in my pocket for a bench seat.
Newer Land Cruiser parts, on the other hand, are very affordable: scored a pair of 1992 seats in fair condition for $50 off CL. Think I'll remove the headrest, install heated seat covers or wrap them in coral and use them for a while. They are quite comfy.
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- Thread starter
- #32
Everyone has probably seen those cheesy reality shows where they try to build fake drama by creating deadlines or exaggerate danger. Ice Road Truckers for example, usually has a narrator state " if they don't get this 120-ton load across the frozen river in 14 minutes, the ice will melt and they will plunge to a watery grave."
Not to build fake drama, but I set myself somewhat of a deadline too. I have $24.50 left in my rainy day account to spend on the truck, after that, my budget gets tight (I started this project with 5k, so by doing all of the work myself and buying or trading wisely, I was able to get this far under 5k). So, I have $24 to get it running. To further build drama a la Ice Road Truckers, this thing will drive for the first time in decades By 2:00 tomorrow.
If I don't post for a couple of weeks it is because I have failed to get it driving and am hiding in shame. Either that, or I've plunged to a watery grave. More likely the former than the latter.
Not to build fake drama, but I set myself somewhat of a deadline too. I have $24.50 left in my rainy day account to spend on the truck, after that, my budget gets tight (I started this project with 5k, so by doing all of the work myself and buying or trading wisely, I was able to get this far under 5k). So, I have $24 to get it running. To further build drama a la Ice Road Truckers, this thing will drive for the first time in decades By 2:00 tomorrow.
If I don't post for a couple of weeks it is because I have failed to get it driving and am hiding in shame. Either that, or I've plunged to a watery grave. More likely the former than the latter.
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- Thread starter
- #33
First thought this am as I drink my overpriced coffee (in the dark) is that I the seat sits too high-not so much from a comfort point of view, but from a cosmetic point of view. Not going to remount it today, but will address soon.
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
Hope you get some video.
- Thread starter
- #35
Unfortunately, no video this time. Was too busy scrambling to make the self-imposed 2:00 deadline (i chose 2:00 so I would have the time to clean up the mess a tad.
About 1/2 through the AM I gave up on the new seats. They were quickly evolving into a 2-3 day project, so I threw the best old seat I had in and called it good:
And to give an idea of how long it has been since this thing has been on the road-or at least on the road legally as I understand the owner used it in the back country until the motor quit.
About 1/2 through the AM I gave up on the new seats. They were quickly evolving into a 2-3 day project, so I threw the best old seat I had in and called it good:
And to give an idea of how long it has been since this thing has been on the road-or at least on the road legally as I understand the owner used it in the back country until the motor quit.
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- Thread starter
- #36
I actually didn't make the 2:00 timeframe. It was closer to 4:00 before I hooked the battery up as I wanted to go through the entire rig and make sure there wasn't anything loose or missing. Even though the motor hasn't been started in a month or two, it fired right up. And off I drove. For six blocks before it sputtered and died.
thebigredrocker
SILVER Star
Glad to hear you drove it, I know the feeling and it is a good one.
- Thread starter
- #38
Thanks, it has been about 25 years or so since the red rig in my avatar broke down miles from home and I sold it to pay for bus fare.
Since then Ive owned Nissan Patrols, vintage Power Wagons, Scout 80s, Willys and other pre-1970 rigs. All had their good points, but none brought a smile to my face as much as an FJ40.
So-overall impression, some good, some bad.
Bad-4.10 gear ratio is a little too high for the 5-speed/turbo diesel combo. Probably need a 4.88 or perhaps even 5.29 to take full advantage of the motor/tranny combo (I'm running Toyota mini-truck axles).
Good-the stock "armstrong" steering is more than adequate. As a backup plan I thought I may have to go with a Toyota mini-truck Power steering, but no need. I suspect the front end is about 200-250 lbs lighter than stock. Im curious to see how much it weights, my guess is around 3100 lbs if the estimate of 3400 lbs is accurate for a soft top FJ40.
Bad-Brakes suck. I have a few barely perceivable leaks on the new lines I put in, and it is sucking air. I suspect my inverted flares are the culprit. All of the lines, cylinders and rotos are new.
Bad-the rusty old seat I drove impaled me in an unfortunate location of my anatomy. Might want to check to see if my tetanus shot is current.
Good. Nothing better than a 5 speed in a vintage rig. I used the stock FJ40 clutch pedal assembly and master mated to the slave cylinder from a 1985 Toyota. Shifts very smooth.
Good-the puzzled look on peoples face when they hear a turbo spooling up in a stock old FJ40.
Since then Ive owned Nissan Patrols, vintage Power Wagons, Scout 80s, Willys and other pre-1970 rigs. All had their good points, but none brought a smile to my face as much as an FJ40.
So-overall impression, some good, some bad.
Bad-4.10 gear ratio is a little too high for the 5-speed/turbo diesel combo. Probably need a 4.88 or perhaps even 5.29 to take full advantage of the motor/tranny combo (I'm running Toyota mini-truck axles).
Good-the stock "armstrong" steering is more than adequate. As a backup plan I thought I may have to go with a Toyota mini-truck Power steering, but no need. I suspect the front end is about 200-250 lbs lighter than stock. Im curious to see how much it weights, my guess is around 3100 lbs if the estimate of 3400 lbs is accurate for a soft top FJ40.
Bad-Brakes suck. I have a few barely perceivable leaks on the new lines I put in, and it is sucking air. I suspect my inverted flares are the culprit. All of the lines, cylinders and rotos are new.
Bad-the rusty old seat I drove impaled me in an unfortunate location of my anatomy. Might want to check to see if my tetanus shot is current.
Good. Nothing better than a 5 speed in a vintage rig. I used the stock FJ40 clutch pedal assembly and master mated to the slave cylinder from a 1985 Toyota. Shifts very smooth.
Good-the puzzled look on peoples face when they hear a turbo spooling up in a stock old FJ40.
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is your fuel filter plugged? we made about six or seven trips up the road when we first got annie running before flakes of what used to be old gas plugged the filter. i had to have the tank boiled
- Thread starter
- #40
Will check, it does seem fuel starved
