Builds 1965 FJ45lv build up/resto thread (2 Viewers)

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I am sure you dont want to hear it, but you will need some SERIOUS hours to get the fenders right. I must have spent 10 hours working them.

I would highly recommend ditching them now, before you have alot of time in them and are still frustrated. I think at least some years of OEM toyota ones can still be had.
 
Looking awesome.. Why'd you put the anti-inversion shackles on backwards?
Dunno why Paul puts that square ubolt in the spring kit.. But they have different stuff over there.. Curious.. Did the bushings that came with the kit now have any changes? He was trying to get closer to having a bolt on kit after I put mine on..
 
4 x 8 x 20 ga. sheet metal, 2 sheets. :D Let the fun begin!
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tornadoalleycruiser said:
Looking awesome.. Why'd you put the anti-inversion shackles on backwards?
Dunno why Paul puts that square ubolt in the spring kit.. But they have different stuff over there.. Curious.. Did the bushings that came with the kit now have any changes? He was trying to get closer to having a bolt on kit after I put mine on..

Because I'm stupid, that's why :flipoff2: I was hoping no one would see that until I got them corrected, I'm still stupid though.

I didn't look at the bushings in the kit that closely. I did notice that the flanges were to wide, so they would have to be machined down. I didn't measure the ID's either. So I don't know if they would have fit my shackles w/ a 9/ 16" dia. pin, I would doubt it though?

Matt
 
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cruiserbrett said:
I am sure you dont want to hear it, but you will need some SERIOUS hours to get the fenders right. I must have spent 10 hours working them.

I would highly recommend ditching them now, before you have alot of time in them and are still frustrated. I think at least some years of OEM toyota ones can still be had.


I think I'm going to have to agree with you on the SERIOUS hours to get them to fit. I think it's going to take some major massaging to get them in. I spent a good 3 hours last night just getting the bolts in. In hind sight, I wish I would have spent the extra dollar and got the OEM ones.

I think at this point I'm going to forge ahead and keep beating on them, since I bought them and have them. I'm pretty sure I can get them to look decent. I may come to regret it though and not taking your advice?

Matt
 
The '6X to '69 fenders are different. They slope down away from the hood almost like they are melting. The turn signal mounting is different and the inner fenders are more angled. There is also the mounting tabs for the coil and windshield washer bottle on the new fenders. From the looks of it, the slope in from the front to back is also different. As a quick fix, you could source a set of '70s era aprons and make the new fenders work.
 
treerootCO said:
The '6X to '69 fenders are different. They slope down away from the hood almost like they are melting. The turn signal mounting is different and the inner fenders are more angled. There is also the mounting tabs for the coil and windshield washer bottle on the new fenders. From the looks of it, the slope in from the front to back is also different. As a quick fix, you could source a set of '70s era aprons and make the new fenders work.

I the coil and windshield washer bottle mounts I was planning on drilling out anyway, since I have the 350. The inner fenders being more angle shouldn't matter to me either.

I guess I don't quite understand, "Slope down away from the hood like they are melting", not seeing what you are talking about here.

How is the signal mounting different? Further in / out?

Are you saying the Aprons from a mid 70's to mid 60's are different in shape? I know they emblem holes are different, but I thought the overall shape of the side apron was the same?

Thanks, Matt
 
treerootCO said:
If you are looking at the front of the Cruiser, the older fenders slope down instead of being parallel with the bumper.

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Matt,
Are those the ones SOR had on sale last month? I was going to get a set till I found a good set of OEM later model fenders at a wreckers in Honduras for about $120 including the aprons, and washer bottle mount and portions of the signal lights.
Are emblem holes different? I haven't checked yet. Not a huge deal if they are. Easier to drill a few holes than massage fenders that don't fit nice!
 
cruiser_guy said:
Matt,
Are those the ones SOR had on sale last month? I was going to get a set till I found a good set of OEM later model fenders at a wreckers in Honduras for about $120 including the aprons, and washer bottle mount and portions of the signal lights.
Are emblem holes different? I haven't checked yet. Not a huge deal if they are. Easier to drill a few holes than massage fenders that don't fit nice!

I got mine from CCOT, but they are the same thing Sphincter-off-Road sells.

I got my Aprons off an ebay special about 2 months ago for $20 bucks for the pair. They are a newer style set of aprons with new emblem holes, but that was my plan, weld them shut and drill new ones. My old aprons were bent up and full of bondo pretty bad, un-usable in my opinion

I will get the fenders to fit, there somewhat close now, more massaging.

Matt
 
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I am having withdrawals :D ...it's been like 4 days. I'm guessing the camera broke but he got the body on, all the electrical is done, and the interior is almost finished :D
 
Yea, I've been so busy driving it I haven't had time to take any pics :D

I wish :) I've been pretty good about posting pics of anything I do on the lv. Last time I made any progress (at least worth posting) was Wed. night into Thursday. Pic(s) of the front clip on. I spent a few hours here and there the last few days playing with the front fenders. I drilled out the coil mount, so that's gone. I was going to drill out about 10 spot welds on the upper fender on each side, but decided to wait until the body goes back on. The body will bolt to the back side of the fenders and confirm that location. So I decided to wait unti I do anymore major massaging to the fenders. I think once the body is on and bolted to the fenders it will take 4 to 6 hours to get them pimped out. There fine where there at right now, I know exactly what needs to be done to get them to fit perfect.

Almost all of this weekend was dedicated to my wife and making her concrete countertops for her new kitchen island. In between making forms, pouring concrete and trowling I cleaned up in the shop quite a bit and got pretty organized. Hey, I also had to go flying last night for a couple hours, my airplane needs love'n too ;)

If you guys want pics of my 500lb concrete countertop that is drying in the shop, I'd be more than happy to post that?

I've got a couple work related things going on the next 2 evenings and then I might be grinding concrete the next night or 2. I also have to work this weekend at my store, so :frown: unfortunetly not any major progress will happen this next week......well, maybe a little :) .

Treeroot (Mike), did you confirm those bushing measurements this weekend?

Matt
 
Still been busy with work these past couple nights and the wifes stuff, but managed to sneak out to the shop for a little while tonight. :)

Took almost a couple hours but I drilled out spot welds for a while and got some rusted floor bracing out. This is going to allow access to the floor from both sides now. Basiclly going to run the metal shear up each side of the floor on the outside of the spot weld holes. Shear a piece of 20 ga. approx. 2 1/2" x 5' and then butt weld it in from B pillar to B pillar. Couple other small floor spots where the seat brackets will have to be butt welded in also. I still have to grind out those triangle pieces, that might be tomorrow nights project if I can fit it in.

I think I'm going to make all of those brackets that I cut out tonight brand new. They all have rust through them in some form or another.

Couple questions, middle pic. What is that recess piece in the floor for that came out with the U channel and is still attached in the middle?

2nd question, last pic. What was the little pan for?

Thanks, Matt
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cruiserbrett said:
little pan is for the jack. did it have the rubber pad still in it?

No pad. Not sure if I'm going to put in back in, has some holes in it? I don't know if I need it or not?

Anyone else know why that other recess piece is in there, about 6" x 8"?

Thansk, Matt
 

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