Builds 1965 FJ45lv build up/resto thread

[buckroseau]

OK, cruise and cable guru's.....now is your time to shine.

Signal generator that came with the kit has a very small square end compared to Toyotas large end with that key sticking out.

So, I need to change the 7" stub cable on the one end to the larger Toyota end so that can hook up with the T case.

Then, I need to change the Toyota speedo cable to the small square end, to fit the signal generator.






Matt

 

[buckroseau]

last 2

 

[orangefj45]

pretty sure that downey and jagsthatrun sell a setup that'll bolt right in.

 

[buckroseau]

pretty sure that downey and jagsthatrun sell a setup that'll bolt right in.

What no link? I'm to lazy or stupid to look or find it, maybe both

Matt

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Did a simular swap in a diesel landcruiser, comes with a chevy end, had to cut off the toyota end drill out the cable bits, then crimp and solder the end on.

Kinda goofy but it worked.

Rob

 

[usmcruiser]

What no link? I'm to lazy or stupid to look or find it, maybe both

Matt

No sure but is this the page look under speed sensors??

 

[buckroseau]

No sure but is this the page look under speed sensors??

Your the man, ordered!!!

4 pulse speed sensor w/ 10" stub cable, set up for all Toyota product.

Also ordered yesterday from Lokar, pre-made cable to replace the cable in the Rostra cruise control unit. Made to hook up to all my Lokar stuff and the carb I have right now.

Should be good to go.........

Matt

 

[usmcruiser]

Your the man, ordered!!!

4 pulse speed sensor w/ 10" stub cable, set up for all Toyota product.

Also ordered yesterday from Lokar, pre-made cable to replace the cable in the Rostra cruise control unit. Made to hook up to all my Lokar stuff and the carb I have right now.

Should be good to go.........

Matt

Woooohooooo I helped. Now if only I could get to work on my 40.

 

[buckroseau]

Another question for the LV boys and girls.

Any pics of the brake switch underneath the dash?? I don't remember removing one, might not have been there?

What does it look like? Where does it mount?

Trying to figure out if I can get by with 1 switch for the brake, cruise control and tranny lock up, or am I going to need 3???

Thanks in advance.......again

Matt

 

[orangefj45]

you'll prolly have to run 2 switches. one stocker and the painless dual action switch. the painless switch has one open circuit when the switch is actuated and one closed circuit. and vise versa when the switch is in idle position of course.....

 

[buckroseau]

you'll prolly have to run 2 switches. one stocker and the painless dual action switch. the painless switch has one open circuit when the switch is actuated and one closed circuit. and vise versa when the switch is in idle position of course.....

Is the switch threaded into the bracket? Just want to make sure, hard to tell. I'm going to have to look at my box of parts, but I don't think mine was there? Might want a new and improved one anyway?

Which switch do I run my cruise control into, to kick it off?

Please bear with me on the questions, totally new ground for me

PS, Georg, got the plates, thanks!! Your product shipped today to from here

Thanks, Matt

 

[orangefj45]

thanks bud!

i guess you could just run the painless switch if all you nedd to do is supply/interrupt voltage going wherever.

 

[orangefj45]

forgot to mention, i'm pretty sure the factory switch threads in all the way at the top of the pedal towards the dash. this is what it looks like from the inside of the cab with the gauge cluster removed. i just took this pic utilizing my 63 FJ40 as an example. pretty dam sure the LVs use the same setup.

 

[buckroseau]

thanks bud!

i guess you could just run the painless switch if all you nedd to do is supply/interrupt voltage going wherever.

Pic of the painless switch.

Read the Note: that is from the instructions from the lock up kit.

Is there another cruise control switch I need?


Matt

 

[orangefj45]

that's the one. should work for your application matt.

 

[buckroseau]

that's the one. should work for your application matt.

Just so I have this straight, all 3 correct: Brake, cruise and lock out?

Sorry for the redundency, just takes a while for kids like me ;p

Thanks, Matt

 

[orangefj45]

yup, should work. you'll just have to figure out when power is needed/sent and when it's not needed/sent.

here is what i know for sure:

the brake lights only need power when the pedal is depressed and the switch activated. but then again, we all know that one.

the transmission lockup solenoid needs power going to it when the bake is NOT activated.

the cruise control i'd have to guess on, but if you can post a pic of the instructions i'm sure we can get it fingured out. i would assume that it needs power going to it when the brake is not actuated since normally the cruise control function gets canceled out when the brake is activated.
so if i had to take an educated guess, i'd say that the cruise controll and the lockup solenoid in the trans should share the same prongs on the painless switch since they both require power when the brake is not activated.

does that make any sense at all?! i gotta work on my english skillz

 

[buckroseau]

yup, should work. you'll just have to figure out when power is needed/sent and when it's not needed/sent.

here is what i know for sure:

the brake lights only need power when the pedal is depressed and the switch activated. but then again, we all know that one.

the transmission lockup solenoid needs power going to it when the bake is NOT activated.

the cruise control i'd have to guess on, but if you can post a pic of the instructions i'm sure we can get it fingured out. i would assume that it needs power going to it when the brake is not actuated since normally the cruise control function gets canceled out when the brake is activated.
so if i had to take an educated guess, i'd say that the cruise controll and the lockup solenoid in the trans should share the same prongs on the painless switch since they both require power when the brake is not activated.

does that make any sense at all?! i gotta work on my english skillz

Yes, it does make sense. I guess the main thing is, that if your confident it will work, then I am. Sounds like you know more about it than me.

The main thing is that you/we know it is going to work. Reason being is that I am going to make a bracket or thread it into the existing hole (if it will fit) and that is it. This is all getting taken apart for paint, so as long as I know everything will work when it comes time for re-assembly.

I know I can't see everything, but I am trying to. I just don't want to be welding or grinding into that hi-gloss white paint that is going to be there, because I forgot a switch

Thanks, Matt

 

[orangefj45]

i would definetly do a "test run" on the switch installation. the painles switch is a lot longer than the factory brake switch. i have used the painless switch in a couple of different setups and they work well.

 

[buckroseau]

Hopefully this is legible? Cruise control instructions, specificly C and D.

Matt