1965 FJ40 project

[cppilot]

That's what I was thinking Mark, but I sure see a lot of "original" 65 FJ40's with no hooks or bumpers. These are true 65's as well with the slanted heater vent.

Maybe someone else will some more information.

 

[cppilot]

Ryno5150, did it happen to have the original Red front Seatbelts in it? If so a photo would be helpful to me.

Looking forward to this build.....

Mark

 

[Living in the Past]

I always assume a post-delivery mis-match. A lot of accidents can happen in 50 years. My Oct '64lpb was a heater model. But my 64 lpb windshield frame has hand-cut holes for the defrost, and is a different shade of blue under the respray.

Toyota starting adding defrost vents long before a factory heater was a option. Have the VIN info in a book showing when it started. Have a 63 model with a 62 build date that while remove now one was still installed when I pulled the cruiser from a junk yard. Thru the cowl and windshield frame in piece was one of Toyota's better ideas. My 63 still had early bolt instead of a latch. If yours has the two screw hook probably means that Toyota adding defrost vents was not in all markets and yours was either a mix up or used one from another market by mistake.

 

[Ryno5150]

Ryno5150, did it happen to have the original Red front Seatbelts in it? If so a photo would be helpful to me.

Looking forward to this build.....

Mark

Actually, it doesn't have seatbelts. My dad says he has them somewhere and never put them in. No seatbelts and no roll bar. Risky for how much wheeling he did.
Here is a VIN pic.

 

[Ryno5150]

So...I was out in WA for Christmas. Had to pound away on the 40 for a bit. 80% of the bolts and screws broke. Cleaned out the nests made by the meeses. Ripped out all the 1950s British tech wiring. Next time I'm there, should be able to get engine/trans out and tub off- only a couple broken bolts to go and the tub can be lifted. Had to start with a photo of the Columbia River gorge. Had to take advantage of a perfect weather day and hike Table Mountain.

 

[Ryno5150]

Was out in WA visiting the family. Got the body removed. Didn't have time to do much more, moutain hiking took priority. Had to take advantage of the PacNW perfect summer weather. When I'm there at Christmas, engine/trans/tcase get removed. Depending on time, hopefully everything stripped down to bare frame. Pressure wash then sandblast.

 

[bb67tlc]

We're up in the Seattle area with a '67 on its slow frame off journey... same color as yours. Feels good getting the cobwebs out! "Keep on trucking'!"

 

[Ryno5150]

We're up in the Seattle area with a '67 on its slow frame off journey... same color as yours. Feels good getting the cobwebs out! "Keep on trucking'!"

View attachment 1520907

If only I were that far along or was closer to work on it more often. I'm looking for a 2F and a 3FE to build a 2FE. Also looking for an H41 (preferably) or an H42. So if you know anyone up there who is looking to sell one, let me know.
Is yours going back to stock?

 

[cbmontgo]

Nice story. Subscribed.

 

[wichitakid]

Super nice 40! Fellow 65 owner whose rig is in the same state of break down. I bet you beat me there. Nice to see an intact long rear step too.

 

[Ryno5150]

Thanks. It's a long road ahead, no pun intended. It sat for 30 years In a shed on my parents' property without so much as having the key turned. Is that rear step a factory thing?

 

[GLCuervo]

Diggin on your rig my friend. I love all the old tread patterns.

 

[bb67tlc]

Hey Ryno- yes, aiming for stock. It was my best friend's truck- all he had done was put a Weber on it, so I'm in great shape. Am hoping to find a step like yours, stock or not.

 

[Ryno5150]

Back in WA for Christmas so time to get some more work done on the 40. Engine and transmission out. Waiting for warmer and drier weather for frame sandblasting.

 

[Ryno5150]

Since the engine hasn't been run since 1988, the engine is locked up. Any suggestions on getting to the top pressure plate bolts? Not a fan of the weird bellhousing to block bolts inside the bellhousing. Wish it was like the T5 in my Mustang - all the bellhousing to block and trans to bellhousing bolts are external.

 

[bb67tlc]

You'll probably want to get the bell housing off eventually so might as well do it now. If you don't have an air impact wrench, I'd get one. That saved me from breaking a lot of bolts.

 

[Mace]

If you cannot turn the engine over, you can break the bell housing with a hammer. It's not tough to find another one if necessary.

 

[BretwithoneT]

After putting Marvel Mystery Oil in my cylinders, I used a pickle fork to pry on the flywheel against the bell housing to turn the engine.

 

[Mace]

A side question is are you planing to use that motor again? If not, I would just try to find a replacement.

If so, you are looking at a ton of researching to get parts to rebuild a Siamese port F motor. You can always pull the pan and disconnect the crank. It's a pain but the entire kit and kaboodle can come out.

 

[Ryno5150]

A side question is are you planing to use that motor again? If not, I would just try to find a replacement.

If so, you are looking at a ton of researching to get parts to rebuild a Siamese port F motor. You can always pull the pan and disconnect the crank. It's a pain but the entire kit and kaboodle can come out.

I am not rebuilding the F. My initial plan was 2F-E using 3F-E head and components. Now I'm even entertaining the idea of an EFI Chevy 292 L6. I would prefer to keep it all Toyota, but I'm already breaking that ideal as I'm leaning SM465.
I did consider dropping the pan and pulling out the crank and flywheel as an assembly.