1964 FJ45 LB “RB1” Project

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impressivw, where did you get the peices to replace the frame box over the rear axle?

I cut them out of some 3/16" flat stock. Each one is made from 3 pieces which are then welded together. It was the only way I could figure how to make them curved to match the frame.

The box pieces in the very rear of the frame rails are bent flat stock. The rear crossmember is a piece of 4x3 rectangle.
 
Now what you have there is a well-balanced-tree-knockeroverer :D (no trees were harmed in the typing of this statment)

Very nice work. At first I thought you just stitched on flat plates over the hump to make a rectaungular box section - but then I read that you made a curved 'C' channel in three pieces!?! That's a tuff job done proper!

What did you use to roll the flanges of the curved channel?
 
Very nice work. At first I thought you just stitched on flat plates over the hump to make a rectaungular box section - but then I read that you made a curved 'C' channel in three pieces!?! That's a tuff job done proper!

Thanks. Yeah, I didn't tlike the idea of just welding flat curved pieces to the frame to make a box. I liked the way it was done originally so that's what I was trying to copy.

What did you use to roll the flanges of the curved channel?

I first clamped the 3/16" x 1-1/2" flat bar to the inner frame to get the basic shape. Then I used a dolly and hammer, working slowly, for final fitment to the frame shape. It really didn't take very long to make the pieces.

What took a long time was welding them together because I didn't want to distort the final assembly from the heat of welding them. I also welded them together off the frame so there was nothing to keep them firmly positioned as I started welding. There really wasn't a lot of space to weld them together in the frame.
I replaced the original rivets with 3/8" bolts and nuts tacked to the inside. I also added several more bolts than the number of original rivets since I made the boxnig longer than original. Once I had it all in place and bolted and the frame straight, I added the welds to the frame. I won't be fully welding the pieces front to back, just the welding you see here in the pics.
 
Yeah - full weld would warp it for sure. I think its plenty strong the way you've done it.:cheers:
 
After a long decision process, I decided to trim the lower cab (running board area) and make new steps and guards and also trim the fenders up to match. I cut on the bottom line and then bent the metal on the upper line to form a new lip for strength. No pictures of the process but some with the new guard and step.
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Are the running boards attached to the body only, or do they utilize the frame mount as well? Any pics from the under side?

Either way the look really good!!!
 
It will be mounted to the body only so they move with the body. I have not made them yet, but there will be supports that tie into the body-to-frane mounts and also one that ties into the cross brace on the underside of the cab floor. They will be very strong when these ties are in place. I'll take some pics of the underside and mounts when there is more to see.
 
Looks great Mike! Sure seems like the cab is going to hit the garage door header.Might have to air down first!;)
 
More very fine fab work. Looks awesome.
 
Thanks everyone for the nice comments.

I have to take 2 weeks off work because of a manditory shutdown.

Hummm...what will I do for 2 weeks? :confused:
































:idea:



Spend more :wrench: time on the 45!!! :D
 
Hi Mike,

I just took a look at this thread and man you are doing a beautiful job. I wish I had your skills with fabricatoin or you lived a little closer so I could come over and watch this one being built. Keep those pictures coming it is great fun watching this one take shape.

Cheers,

Jim
 
Update...

de-rusting and stripping paint from the cab floor...
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since the txfr shifter is not going back on the dash, I removed this brace. It was not fun. I also started to fill holes I won't be using in teh dash and then making the back side of the dash smooth. Not fun x2.
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Since I'm going to be using a GM column I modified the dash under the instrument cluster. I'm also going to be using after market gauges so I changed the instrument cluster area as well removing that lower cutout area. Not sure yet if I'll have to move the cluster mounting holes for the new gauge panel. I'll figure that out when I lay out the gauges. Have not decided on the gauge type but I think I want black faces but there are some silver face gauges I like. I don't care for the white face gauges so not going there...
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