Build 1961 fj40l factory soft top

[sleepycruiser]

Not sure why, because with no top it will seldom see rain, but broke down and bought one of the new wiper motor kits just to check it out.

View attachment 4051357

Oh wow. Where did you get that? Link or part number?

 

[middlecalf]

^ yup, x2

 

[brian]

turns out they are switched on the ground side unlike the postive side on the oe motors.....some smoke was carefully released back into the wild this morning.
a work around on the internal wiring looks very possible.....which those words are absolutely hilarious coming from me.
some trimming of wires and resoldering should make this plug and play...even though there are no plugs o play with.
i will share details after i confirm the work around works.

 

[brian]

First pic is as new

 

[brian]

Last two are as modified to switched postive.

 

[brian]

 

[sleepycruiser]

Can you provide links to where you got those? Mine are original but one doesn’t work…probably needs to be cleaned/regreased. Thanks!

 

[brian]

And there's that.

 

[brian]

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Stainless-12-Volt-Electric-Windshield-Wiper-Motor-Kit,38962.html

 

[sleepycruiser]

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Universal-Stainless-12-Volt-Electric-Windshield-Wiper-Motor-Kit,38962.html

Awesome! I saw these a while back and wondered if they would work.

I see the wiring pics, but any additional detail would be great. Looks mostly straightforward after you did the heavy lift of testing! Thank you!

 

[middlecalf]

Aw, in your first pic I thought maybe they were a Toyota product because of the box. I picked up those speedway arms a while back for my 45 as the supply of OEM TNK arms have dwindled to near zero and costs moon-rocketed. Didn’t know if this was maybe something useful finally from the Toyota Heritage project. Thanks for the info.

 

[brian]

Awesome! I saw these a while back and wondered if they would work.

I see the wiring pics, but any additional detail would be great. Looks mostly straightforward after you did the heavy lift of testing! Thank you!

1. remove white ceramic ballast resistor.....im assuming that's what it is.....it will not be reused.
2. cut the wire from the "S" terminal in half, strip both ends.
3. remove the stack of copper contacts on the "S" side of the motor can. make note of the stack of insulators and how they isolate the contact from the ground path. flatten, then re-bend the lower, larger copper contact to match the profile of the smaller up copper plate. discard the smaller contact. remount larger, reformed contact onto the motor assembly.
4. solder the wire from the "S" terminal onto the copper contact you just re attached the assembly.
5. cut off green wire attached to "S", as close to terminal as possible. strip other end.
6. cut black wire from "+" terminal in half. strip both ends.
7. crimp a ring terminal on the black wire attached to the right brush on the motor.
7.5 remove the phillip headed screw securing plastic brush holder housing to motor can, DO NOT remove brush holder from can. attach wire from right side brush with ring terminal to motor can using above mentioned screw.
8. connect green wire from right side copper contact, black wire from the "+" terminal housing and black wire from left side motor brush.
9. understand that someone who has almost no skill in electrical trades figured this out over several days there was no beer in the house and wonder what led you to this decision.

 

[sleepycruiser]

1. remove white ceramic ballast resistor.....im assuming that's what it is.....it will not be reused.
2. cut the wire from the "S" terminal in half, strip both ends.
3. remove the stack of copper contacts on the "S" side of the motor can. make note of the stack of insulators and how they isolate the contact from the ground path. flatten, then re-bend the lower, larger copper contact to match the profile of the smaller up copper plate. discard the smaller contact. remount larger, reformed contact onto the motor assembly.
4. solder the wire from the "S" terminal onto the copper contact you just re attached the assembly.
5. cut off green wire attached to "S", as close to terminal as possible. strip other end.
6. cut black wire from "+" terminal in half. strip both ends.
7. crimp a ring terminal on the black wire attached to the right brush on the motor.
7.5 remove the phillip headed screw securing plastic brush holder housing to motor can, DO NOT remove brush holder from can. attach wire from right side brush with ring terminal to motor can using above mentioned screw.
8. connect green wire from right side copper contact, black wire from the "+" terminal housing and black wire from left side motor brush.
9. understand that someone who has almost no skill in electrical trades figured this out over several days there was no beer in the house and wonder what led you to this decision.

How do I like/love/laugh emoji all at the same time…haha. Thanks for the info. Will be a good winter day project. Appreciate it!

 

[brian]

Horns are not functional.
If its powered like this, it should do something, correct?
It does nothing, nothing moves, hums, growls sparks or smokes.
What do they do to make noise?

 

[pardion]

Horns are not functional.
If its powered like this, it should do something, correct?
It does nothing, nothing moves, hums, growls sparks or smokes.
What do they do to make noise?

View attachment 4056560

Brian I’m not sure if it matters, but they ground from the mounting tab on the other side. Flip that over so we can see the other side. John

 

[brian]

Brian I’m not sure if it matters, but they ground from the mounting tab on the other side. Flip that over so we can see the other side. John

they ground through the "body"...that fastener is one of the bolts that attaches the mount to the assembly to one of the threaded holes.
the only thing on the other side that is visible, is the diaphragm.

 

[aztoyman]

They vibrate. As clean and undisturbed as it looks, they only thing that my need replacing is the condenser. Age alone can take them out. Lot's of new in box antique condensers being sold on eBay that are no good after all these years.

 

[brian]

They vibrate. As clean and undisturbed as it looks, they only thing that my need replacing is the condenser. Age alone can take them out. Lot's of new in box antique condensers being sold on eBay that are no good after all these years.

thats very much a start

 

[pardion]

they ground through the "body"...that fastener is one of the bolts that attaches the mount to the assembly to one of the threaded holes.
the only thing on the other side that is visible, is the diaphragm.

Sorry, I was not awake, I was thinking they were later horns.

 

[brian]

Going to rework a new bumper to look more correct and close up 90% of the holes in it.
Have hub caps enroute.
But it maybe allfornaught...have title issues.