Build 1961 fj40l factory soft top

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

^ yup, x2
 
turns out they are switched on the ground side unlike the postive side on the oe motors.....some smoke was carefully released back into the wild this morning.
a work around on the internal wiring looks very possible.....which those words are absolutely hilarious coming from me.
some trimming of wires and resoldering should make this plug and play...even though there are no plugs o play with.
i will share details after i confirm the work around works.
 
First pic is as new

20251223_122932.webp


20251223_123318.webp


20251223_123405.webp


20251223_123554.webp


20251223_123659.webp


20251223_123737.webp


20251223_123852.webp
 
Aw, in your first pic I thought maybe they were a Toyota product because of the box. I picked up those speedway arms a while back for my 45 as the supply of OEM TNK arms have dwindled to near zero and costs moon-rocketed. Didn’t know if this was maybe something useful finally from the Toyota Heritage project. Thanks for the info.
 
sleepycruiser said:
Awesome! I saw these a while back and wondered if they would work.

I see the wiring pics, but any additional detail would be great. Looks mostly straightforward after you did the heavy lift of testing! Thank you!
Click to expand...

1. remove white ceramic ballast resistor.....im assuming that's what it is.....it will not be reused.
2. cut the wire from the "S" terminal in half, strip both ends.
3. remove the stack of copper contacts on the "S" side of the motor can. make note of the stack of insulators and how they isolate the contact from the ground path. flatten, then re-bend the lower, larger copper contact to match the profile of the smaller up copper plate. discard the smaller contact. remount larger, reformed contact onto the motor assembly.
4. solder the wire from the "S" terminal onto the copper contact you just re attached the assembly.
5. cut off green wire attached to "S", as close to terminal as possible. strip other end.
6. cut black wire from "+" terminal in half. strip both ends.
7. crimp a ring terminal on the black wire attached to the right brush on the motor.
7.5 remove the phillip headed screw securing plastic brush holder housing to motor can, DO NOT remove brush holder from can. attach wire from right side brush with ring terminal to motor can using above mentioned screw.
8. connect green wire from right side copper contact, black wire from the "+" terminal housing and black wire from left side motor brush.
9. understand that someone who has almost no skill in electrical trades figured this out over several days there was no beer in the house and wonder what led you to this decision.



 
brian said:
1. remove white ceramic ballast resistor.....im assuming that's what it is.....it will not be reused.
2. cut the wire from the "S" terminal in half, strip both ends.
3. remove the stack of copper contacts on the "S" side of the motor can. make note of the stack of insulators and how they isolate the contact from the ground path. flatten, then re-bend the lower, larger copper contact to match the profile of the smaller up copper plate. discard the smaller contact. remount larger, reformed contact onto the motor assembly.
4. solder the wire from the "S" terminal onto the copper contact you just re attached the assembly.
5. cut off green wire attached to "S", as close to terminal as possible. strip other end.
6. cut black wire from "+" terminal in half. strip both ends.
7. crimp a ring terminal on the black wire attached to the right brush on the motor.
7.5 remove the phillip headed screw securing plastic brush holder housing to motor can, DO NOT remove brush holder from can. attach wire from right side brush with ring terminal to motor can using above mentioned screw.
8. connect green wire from right side copper contact, black wire from the "+" terminal housing and black wire from left side motor brush.
9. understand that someone who has almost no skill in electrical trades figured this out over several days there was no beer in the house and wonder what led you to this decision.



Click to expand...


How do I like/love/laugh emoji all at the same time…haha. Thanks for the info. Will be a good winter day project. Appreciate it!
 
Horns are not functional.
If its powered like this, it should do something, correct?
It does nothing, nothing moves, hums, growls sparks or smokes.
What do they do to make noise?

20251228_082325.webp
 
brian said:
Horns are not functional.
If its powered like this, it should do something, correct?
It does nothing, nothing moves, hums, growls sparks or smokes.
What do they do to make noise?

View attachment 4056560
Click to expand...
Brian I’m not sure if it matters, but they ground from the mounting tab on the other side. Flip that over so we can see the other side. John
 
pardion said:
Brian I’m not sure if it matters, but they ground from the mounting tab on the other side. Flip that over so we can see the other side. John
Click to expand...
they ground through the "body"...that fastener is one of the bolts that attaches the mount to the assembly to one of the threaded holes.
the only thing on the other side that is visible, is the diaphragm.
 
They vibrate. As clean and undisturbed as it looks, they only thing that my need replacing is the condenser. Age alone can take them out. Lot's of new in box antique condensers being sold on eBay that are no good after all these years.
 
aztoyman said:
They vibrate. As clean and undisturbed as it looks, they only thing that my need replacing is the condenser. Age alone can take them out. Lot's of new in box antique condensers being sold on eBay that are no good after all these years.
Click to expand...
thats very much a start
 
Going to rework a new bumper to look more correct and close up 90% of the holes in it.
Have hub caps enroute.
But it maybe allfornaught...have title issues.

20260206_154148.webp
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom