Build 15B-FT Shoehorned into a Canadian Spec 1986 BJ70

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Joined
Aug 21, 2006
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Location
Kennesaw, GA
Bottom Line Up Front (BLUF):

Successfully installed a 15B-FT in my Canadian spec 1986 BJ70. It was more challenging than I anticipated which delayed initial roll-out and road trials (~May2025).
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Current results are very satisfactory;

  • Ample power (readily accelerates to highway speed and easily cruises at +70mph),
  • Good economy* (data points: +21mpg at +70mph, ~24mpg at 55mph)
*Note: Since this is a Canadian spec BJ70, she has 3.73 ratio axles and 10% over-drive in the transfer case due to Georg (@orangefj45). This enables the truck to cruise ~71-73mph at 2200rpm.
  • Easy operation [such as, readily starts cold or hot / normal driving does not need to be tailored for boost or EGT limits]

Let me share my apology in advance. I am not a good writer and it will show.



The Start

While attending the CMCC2023, a combustion pre-cup in my 3B broke apart and dropped into the cylinder. This resulted in the loose portions of the pre-cup being hammered into the head causing damage. Once the head was pulled, it was clear that the pre-cups had been improperly staked and were moving. The one that broke loose had actually worn through the head gasket and into the block. This left me needing to replacement 3B block and head to support rebuilding the engine or replace with a new engine.

Over the years, I have developed a great appreciation and preference for the Toyota engines in my Cruisers. My mechanical knowledge/skills/experience base is very limited, so I needed to find a solution path that was within my abilities. It was also obvious to note that my potential for budget approval was limited. My bride’s first preference was to sell off the BJ70 as a derelict carcass and cut our losses, but she was open to cutting me some slack and room to try. Further because of my novice abilities, a high potential for failure was present, so I decided that any path that I selected would be reversible (i.e., I could unbolt/remove what I have done and gone back to stock configuration).

From these perspectives, an LS/R2.8 or other conversion were off the table for me. I would need to select an engine that supported me doing the work within my limited skill/ability set.

So what were my options?

Starting from my reversible back-to-stock groundrule, this effectively eliminated the non-B family of Toyota engines because these engines would require modifying the frame to accommodate mounting these engines. This seemed wrong relative to the advantages offered in converting to a H family engine, but I felt my reasons were valid for me (my limitations / my objectives).

My steps through the B engine family was short since there are (were) very few in the US with any potential to obtain,

  • Stay with a 3B. A full rebuild of a 3B was not cheap and I needed to locate the very rare (a 3b block and head, or a complete 3B engine as core). Since I had just paid to have my 3B overhauled twice, I was well acquainted with the costs/challenges/risks involved. This would have to be my fallback path.
  • Switch to a 13B-T. This appeared to be a good choice for form/fit/function plus improved performance over a 3B. But the 13B-T path quickly developed into sourcing the very rare (not available in my searches). I was successful in locating a complete 13B-T engine, which prompted optimism. It was reasonably local; it had been fully overhauled and placed in climate controlled storage for a project that never materialized. The owner understood the rarity and would consider selling for a price in the $20s (thousands before any jokes fly). The fact that this 13B-T had been overhauled before being placed in storage without even being fired up concerned me greatly. [I had just had my 3B overhauled twice for poor machine shop workmanship/skill causing failures. First, a poorly overhauled turbo led to metal fragments from the turbo being spread through the entire engine via the oil. Second, incompetent staking of the pre-combustion cups had led to a catastrophic failure as described earlier] Due to the combination of cost and risk of an unproven overhaul, I stepped away from the only 13B-T that I found. Again this shaped up as a fallback path.
  • Switch to a 15B-FT. With my failed searches for rare 3B and 13B-Ts, I continued my search across the B engine family. By chance a 15B-FT engine happened to surface. As a late increment in the B-engine family, the 15B-FT engine shared numerous form/fit/function characteristics with the 3B. So it was projected that the 15B-FT could utilize 3B components to enable bolting up to the BJ70 as if it were a 3B. As good fortune would have it, Alberto (@AlbertoSD) and Roma (@roma042987) had researched converting 3B equipped Cruisers to 15B equipped and imported several 15B-FT engines. They had already identified the parts required for converting a 15B for installation as a 3B replacement, plus proven that the parts were available. Roma had only imported engines for his needs, but Alberto had imported more engines than what he needed and had sold the extras. Since all were sold, it appeared that I was too late, but Fate smiled at me for once. The intended project for one of engines sold by Alberto had evaporated and the engine had just become available for resale. I contacted new owner of the engine to discuss a possible sale. With the cost of a used 15B-FT engine plus the cost of the identified conversion parts, it was clear that converting to the 15B-FT engine appeared to be less than half the cost to overhaul a 3B. This appeared to be my best option. These lower costs provided margin to deal with unknowns that were likely to occur. Plus possibly the biggest benefit … the engine and conversion parts were available. This appeared to be my best path.
 

I was able to purchase one of the 15B-FT engines that Alberto had imported. It was originally reported to Alberto that the engine had been pulled from a Coaster bus in the Hong Kong region. The info on the data plates of various components supported the projected linage for my engine. The data plate info supported that my engine was from a Coaster bus. The likely bus model being a BB50L-ZGMSWC (production date range of 08/2000-11/2002). This was very helpful because the 15B-FT engine that I purchased had a few parts that were damaged (or missing) and needed to be replaced. {great more parts to identify and purchase}

The basic changes needed to reconfigure the 15B-FT to fit in a BJ70 were


Oil Pan & Sump – need to source the oil pan + dip stick + oil strainer assembly from a Megacruiser. This was needed because the oil pan sump on 15B-FTs from Coasters or Dynas have the sump located forward which would result in the front axle housing striking the oil pan during up travel. The Megacruiser’s oil pan had the sump located aft so the axle would not strike the pan, so Megacruiser parts were the need.

Parts to Reconfigure 15B-FT Oil Pan for BJ70

Part Description Part Number
Pan Sub-Assy, Oil 12101-58150
Guide, Oil Level Gage 11409-58010
Gage Sub-Assy, Oil Level 15301-58060
Gasket (oil plug) 90430-12031
Plug (oil pan drain) 90341-12012
Strainer Sub-Assy, Oil* 15104-56062
Gasket, Oil Strainer Flange 15149-58010

*Note: I could have pulled this off my 3B, but since it was still available from Toyota I elected to purchase a new one for the 15B-FT
 
[continue of basic reconfiguation]

Upper Thermostat Housing – need to source the upper thermostat housing from a 3B to enable direct re-use of the existing radiator (i.e., housing lines up with the upper hose connection on the radiator). No longer available from Toyota, but I had a used one that I could use.

3B Bellhousing – need to source from the 3B to enable mounting the H55 to the 15B-FT. The bellhousing bolted up directly to the 15B-FT. Again here to I had these parts from my 3B. A complication did emerge. The 3B support bracket on the righthand side (i.e., exhaust side), between the block and the bellhousing, bolted up directly to the 15B-FT. However, the 3B support bracket on the lefthand side (i.e., intake and starter side) did not bolt up correctly. The bolt holes on the 15B-FT block had been moved such the 3B bracket would bolt up to the bellhousing but only with one (of two) bolts holes in the 15B-FT block. I was reasonably confident that 3 bolts for such a robust bracket should suffice, but why chance it when a new replacement bracket could be fabricated that would fit properly. With the help of my friend Mike, we fabricated components out of steel to build the new bracket. The replacement bracket could be readily fabricated using the 15B-FT engine/3B bellhousing as a fixture. But out of concern for fire and introduction of unnecessary heat (via welding) into the block and bellhousing, we used the original 3B and 15B-FT brackets to jig up the steel components on the welding table. Our jig enabled positioning/holding the components in correct orientation during welding. Then we cut and shaped a piece of 3/8 inch flat stock to fit between the jigged components and welded the components together. Out of concern for warpage in the final part, the welding was completed through a series of small welds with ample cooling periods between welds. The new part bolted to the 15B-FT block and the 3B bellhousing as needed, so we were successful.
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Flywheel and Clutch- the 3B flywheel utilized the older 6-bolt configuration with a nominal diameter of 12.75 inches. While the 15B-FT flywheel utilized the newer 8-bolt configuration with a nominal diameter of 14.15 inches. => The 15B-FT flywheel would not fit in the 3B bellhousing, so an 8-Bolt flywheel with the 3B diameter was needed. The 13B-T flywheel was known to meet this criteria, but I didn’t have one and the 13B-T flywheel was no longer available from Toyota or aftermarket sources.

I contacted Dave Stedman at Japan4x4 with the details and he was able to source a new flywheel and clutch that was a direct replacement.

Alternate Parts identified and sourced by Dave Stedman were

Part Description Part Number
Disc Assy, Clutch 31250-60432
Cover Assy, Clutch 31210-36330
Flywheel Sub-Assy 13405-56041
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Jumping forward …

Received and installed the parts. The reconfigured 15B-FT engine with 3B bellhousing/3B motor mount brackets/new flywheel/new clutch was ready for a test fit in my BJ70. My friend Mike (@d110pickup) came over to help. It was clear that the 15B-FT was bigger than the 3B but how much was hard to access. Hand measurements off the free-standing engines indicated that they were close in size, but the 3B had already been removed from the BJ70 so a test fit of the engine in the truck was needed.

The test fit quickly demonstrated fitment issues … namely lack of clearance and interferences along the drivers side (LHS)

  • Intake manifold to Brake booster
  • Power Steering reservoir to firewall/brake booster
  • Power Steering pump (suction) to frame and steering shaft
  • Engine coolant downpipe to frame
Initially these problems appeared to be show stoppers. After a pause for regrouping, we went to lunch … After regrouping, Mike suggested that we remove components from the engine/truck until we get to something that we can install and start making hard measurements. His suggestion was based this his racing experience where conversions of big engines into small cars was the norm. From the engine, we removed

  • power steering pump
  • power steering reservoir
  • coolant down pipe
From the truck, we removed
  • brake booster
  • brake master cylinder
This enabled us to install the engine and start taking stock.
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Test Fit Results
Once we had taken stock, the key take-aways from the test install were

  • An alternate brake booster was needed. The current brake booster had almost an inch of interference with the intake. This situation would worsen with engine operation (motion). Based on measurements of the installed engine, the alternate brake booster would need to be 3+ inches smaller in diameter (1.5 inches less in radius). [* Relocation of the original brake booster would require reconfiguring the firewall to move the brake and clutch boosters outward towards the fender was reviewed/discussed, but it would have violated my premise/objective to be reversible back to original. Consequently, this concept was dropped from further consideration]
  • Reconfiguring the power steering suction line was required and re-clocking the pump would need to be evaluated (i.e., might enable gaining clearance to the steering shaft).
  • Relocation of the power steering reservoir was an open need. The factory location was on the rear portion of the intake which resulted in interferences with the firewall.
  • Replacement of the coolant downpipe with the molded 3B coolant hose was some good news. We test fitted the molded 3B coolant hose and it would connect the 15B to the 3B radiator while fitting in the available space.
  • Otherwise, the 15B-FT fit in the 70. The mounting provisions in the 15B-FT block allowed attachment of the 3B motor mounting brackets to mate up to the frame via the 3B motor mounts. This had been assumed because 15Bs had been successfully installed in RHD 70s (Indonesia had examples that I was aware of), but now it was proven. Clearances on the exhaust side were tighter but not an issue.
 
Building solutions to resolve the fitment challenges …

Brake Booster

The alternate brake booster would need to be smaller in diameter than what the truck already had. To support being a reversible change, retaining the 4-bolt Toyota master cylinder would be an important step to ensure that the brake system retained compatibility between the master and the cylinders (front and rear). My searches relative to these objectives yielded no options.

Again Fate took pity on me … While discussing the situation with Shawn (@shawnfj40), a very capable and experienced mechanic; he asked if I had considered a hydraulic brake booster to replace the vacuum brake booster? He outlined that they were considerably smaller than traditional vacuum brake boosters. I was completely unfamiliar with the hydraulic brake boosters, so researching this option.

Searching “hydraulic brake booster” + “Toyota” yielded a very helpful opportunity. Marks Offroad had developed a complete line of hydraulic brake booster conversion kits for later model RHD Land Cruisers (the Australian market). The kits all utilized a modified GM hydroboost unit that is powered by high pressure hydraulic fluid from the power steering. However, none of the kits were identified as applicable for a 1986 BJ70, but there was a kit for 80 series Cruisers with 4-bolt masters. I had a used 80 series brake booster in my parts pile which enabled me to compare the mounting features (bolt geometry at the firewall interface and bolt geometry at the master cylinder face) with the BJ70 brake booster. The bolt patterns were the same. The 4-bolt kit from Marks would bolt up to my BJ70 firewall and master cylinder. I purchased the 80 series kit knowing that there was risk because it was not design for a LHD BJ70, but it was an option and opportunity to move forward.

After the kit arrived, the initial test fit revealed challenges. The kit had been developed for RHD Cruisers in Australia so the adapters (hydroboost-to-firewall and hydroost-to-master cylinder) tailored clocking of the hydroboost unit for a RHS installation. My need was to install it on the LHS. The clocking from Marks rolled the hydroboost unit directing toward the engine, which resulted in near zero clearance to the engine intake. Additionally, the adapters would result in the master cylinder being rolled onto its side. This would result in brake fluid pouring out the top of the master. These adapters were non-functional for my situation, so new adapters needed to be fabricated. With the help of Mike (and his Bridgeport), we fabricated new adapters that clocked the hydroboost unit to yield maximum clearance to the engine intake while orienting the master cylinder with the top facing direct up. This was not the end of the challenges from the hydroboost unit. The hydraulic connections (high pressure from pump, high pressure to steering box, low pressure to reservoir) were all facing the engine intake. To avoid running the hydraulic hoses into the intake, 90 degree fitting were needed but GM had utilized specialized hydraulic connectors unique to their hydroboost unit. I needed to find and purchase these unique fittings, but in a 90 degree configuration. I quickly learned that GM had never utilized a hydoboost installation that utilized 90 degree fittings. Luckily, the hot rod community had encountered this need (from transplanting hydroboost units into muscle cars). Due to this, I found aftermarket suppliers offering 90 degree fittings for GM hydroboosts. I purchased both to see which worked best. These 90 degree fittings enabled making the hydraulic connection adjacent to the intake manifold while retaining clearance to the intake.
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Also in this power steering/brake booster/LHS mess was relocation of the power steering reservoir. The challenges from LHS integration bottleneck on the continued for the reservoir. The key considerations for the locating the reservoir were

  • Power steering pump was located lower left front on the 15B-FT adjacent to the frame
  • Steering gearbox was on the frame (~outboard of the power steering pump)
  • Marks hydraulic brake booster (hydraboost) was high on the firewall on the LHS
Clearly it would be best of the reservoir was located on the LHS to avoid plumbing across from LHS-to-RHS and then back (RHS-to-LHS), but where was there any space. The only viable space was behind the LHS headlight and forward of the 2nd battery (an added benefit with a 24v electrical system). In addition to this raw space, there were a few unused fastener provisions from Toyota that enabled fabrication of a Frankenstein bracket to support the reservoir in this location. I fabricated the Frankenstein bracket which located the reservoir in this pocket of space, but brought with it new baggage. Specifically, concern for bleeding and operation of the power steering/hydraulic brake system.
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By locating the reservoir behind the left headlight, the reservoir was located below the hydraulic brake booster. So could the entire power steering system be fully purged of air to enable the brakes and power steering to work properly? This concern/question would only be answered once the engine was fully installed and running.

<Damne I growing to hate the unknown and how it will decide to bite my in the arse>
 
(next up)

Power Steering Pump

The power steering presented multiple challenges. The suction line interfered with the frame. The high pressure line was located close to the steering shaft (~1 inch of clearance). While discussing this Roma, he mentioned that he reclocked the power steering pump on his 15B which provided the clearance that he needed. I attempted reclocking my pump and I wasn’t seeing any benefits. In fact, the reclocking positioned the high pressure fitting adjacent to the crank pulley.

Since Roma lives somewhat nearby (~150 miles away), I took advantage of his hospitality and drove out to visit with him and see his solution/progress. This was an exceptional opportunity and it proved to be a very fruitful visit. On the power steering pump, the pump on Roma’s engine was very different from the pump on my motor. The pump interfaces with the engine were identical, but the external body and ports were configured differently. What we realized was the engine that Roma had installed in his 40 was a 15B (reportedly from a Dyna) rather than a 15B-FT. Roma also had a 15B-FT on an engine stand that was in the process of prepping it for a project, so reviewed the 15B-FT pump. The 15B pump was more compact than the 15B-FT pumps. Based on memory, the pump on my 15B-FT might have differences to Roma’s 15B-FT. Clearly, this might be good news but when I got home it looked more like a nightmare… Which model/market/year would yield the best fitting 15B/15B-FT pump for my needs? I didn’t have enough info to sort it out, so I pressed forward with the pump that I had in my hands.
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The visit with Roma provided the confidence that clocking my pump was not the solution. i.e., I was missing something in my attempts at clocking it. Clocking worked for Roma because his pump was different plus his installation (solution) was a 15B in a 40, not a 15B-FT in a 70.

Reviewing the suction line with a renewed fresh perspective, I realized that the fitting at the pump was several inches deeper than it needed to me. Toyota most likely did this because it was easier/cheaper to machine. But I could gain ~2 inches in clearance by machining a new fitting that extended the minimum distance out of the pump. With such a fitting, a 5/8 diameter inch steel hydraulic line could be cut and bent to the needed geometry. I sketched out the design for the fitting and ordered the raw bar stock from McMaster-Carr. Once I received the raw stock, I intruded on another friend, Jeff. Jeff had a lathe in his garage and enjoyed projects that utilized the lathe and tested his skills with it. With the original part in-hand plus sketch and bar stock, Jeff concurred that we should be able to machine a low profile fitting. We would need to take it slow in the hope of avoiding mistakes. After a few hours, we had the fitting parts machined.

Next step was the hydraulic tube. I stopped by a local hydraulic supply store to pick up a 2 foot length of 5/8 tubing. They used their smallest 5/8 diameter die to put a 180 degree bend in the tube. I took the bent tube home where I cut it length and beaded the hose end. After a few fit checks on the engine/truck, I was satisfied with the fit and being able to install-remove the assembly. Then, I drove back to Jeff’s shop to silver solder the parts together. After the part was cool and cleaned, I re-installed the pump with the low profile suction tube.
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(next)

Steering Gearbox & Steering Shaft

Clearance between the high pressure power steering line/fitting to the steering shaft nominally an inch. This appeared to be insufficient considering engine movement during operation. As a cheap means of gaining an additional inch of clearance, I traced the outline of the steering gear box as it mated to the frame onto construction paper. I then transferred the tracing onto a piece of 1 inch steel plate. Then I cut out a 1 inch offset shim to move the box outward, to move the steering shaft away from the high pressure line. In addition to the steel shim, I purchased longer bolts to attach the box through the frame + shim. Lengthening the relay rod compensated for moving the steering box outward.
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(next ... not done but getting closer)

Intercooler

Vehicles that Toyota produced with 15B-FT engines were equipped with air-to-air intercoolers. Integration of an air-to-air intercooler would require major cutting/fabrication of the front bib/grill for a heat exchanger forward of the radiator. Or cutting/fabrication of the hood for the heat exchanger above the engine. Neither of these approaches would meet the reversible groundrule. Another possible air-to-air approach was to relocate the radiator closer to the engine with the intercooler heat exchanger located in front of the relocated radiator but behind the bib assembly. Fabrication of new radiator support structure and fan shroud would clearly be needed. However, review of the space on the left & right sides of the relocated radiator did not look adequate to fit the air ducts through. This did not appear feasible.

This caused me to consider an air-to-water intercooler solution. An air-to-water solution would be more complicated because it would require two heat exchanges (first- transfer heat from the turbo output air to water; second- transfer heat from the water to air headed to the radiator) plus a water pump. But it held the major advantage of much smaller integration foot print (smaller diameter water lines, smaller heat exchanger in front of the radiator). Rob at Odd Iron had previously identified a 24v water pump was utilized on several Mersades vehicles and he shared the part number. I reviewed suppliers for the parts needed and developed a notional design. A barrel air-to-water heat exchanged appeared to be the key component. I located one that was rated for higher horse power applications than the 15B-FT and it would fit in the existing space on top of the fan shroud below the hood. This enabled me to parse my notional design into a material list and purchase the various parts.

Once the parts arrived, the intercooler system slowly came together as an integrated system. For example, the flexible duct components would have extra length an each side of a bend or diameter transition. This enabled me to cut/fit the duct together so that it fit within available space snaking from the turbo to the intake. Per a suggestion from Mike, I used modeling clay to check for clearances with the hood closed. (i.e., hand form small ridges of clay on ducts / valve cover / hydroboost / … that were compressed by the lower hood contours when closed. From this, the actual clearances could be measured from the depth of the deformed clay) It was very helpful in final tailoring of the fitment of the components.
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(next)

Cold Start Preheat

The 3B utilized a cold start glow plug preheat system in the truck which was fully functional, but the 15B-FT utilized a glow screen for preheat. The 3B preheat system utilized 4-glow plugs with interfaces for power control via primary & secondary circuits plus current feedback to manage current draw for primary & secondary circuits. The 15B-FT had one screen in the intake which was a much simpler interface.

The 3B preheat system was functioning fine, so how to connect the multi-connection 3B control system to the single 15B-FT connection to retain a function preheat system.

First step, was compare the resistance of the 15B-FT preheat screen (12.3 ohms measured) to the resistance of 4 3B glow plugs connected in parallel (2.5 ohms calculated; measured 10ohm the resistance of a single glow plug; resistances in parallel is 1/R = 1/10 + 1/10 + 1/10 + 1/10).

12.3 ohms compared to 2.5 ohms is off by a factor of ~5. Not as close as desired but not off further

Second step, was measure the nominal effective resistance across the 3B components between the current measurement inputs to Pre-Heating Timer. The Pre-Heating Time control the current output from the Primary and Secondary glow plug relays.

This resistance measured as nominally 5ohms.

Third step, develop a wiring connection utilizing two multi-connection terminals and a high amperage rated 5ohm resistor to emulate pre-heating the 4 glow plugs on a 3B but actually pre-heating the single screen on the 15B-FT. The objective here is to provide the required connections and feedback so the 3B Super Glow system components can continue to operate approximately as designed.

Implementation was a rather ugly affair. I fabricated a short jumper harness to extend the pre-heat electrical connections to a small fabricated shelf above the hydraulic brake booster. On this shelf, two multi-connection terminal blocks and a 5ohm resistor were secured. The terminal blocks enabled making the required connections to emulate a 3B, but with a single output to the 15B-FT glow screen.


[fast forward] Operationally, the pre-heat system is functioning fine. However, it might be totally unnecessary for the 15B-FT for cold starts at temperatures above 10 degree F. This is the coldest encountered yet in Georgia. As a cold start test: with the temperature ~15F, the engine started with no time allowed to warm up the glow screen (i.e., turned the key promptly to start and the engine started right up). This is a clear sign that simplifying the installation might be merited.
 
(next)

Engine Start/Shutoff

The 3B utilized the EDIC to provide multiple positions for mechanical on/off control at the injection pump. The 15B-FT utilized vacuum activation to shut off fuel (release the vacuum and the injection pump is ready to run, apply vacuum and fuel is shut off to the injection pump).
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I had intended to isolate the off electrical signal to the EDIC, but I could not reliably trace it. After hours of chasing, I wired in a dedicated on-off switch on the dash that controlled a vacuum switch. Apply 24V to the vacuum switch which opens vacuum to the injection pump and shuts down the 15B-FT. Cut 24V to the vacuum switch which releases vacuum to the injection pump and the 15B-FT is ready to run.

Simple but ugly solution. Long term goal is to correct this and control power to the vacuum switch via the ignition key.
 
(next finally)

Fuel Return

The 1986 BJ70 equipped with the 3B did not have fuel line provisions to plumb excess fuel back to the fuel tank. These provisions were not needed. However, the 15B-FT fuel system would have been connected to the fuel tank to return excess fuel. To accommodate this difference, I connected the excess fuel line to the feed line ahead of the fuel filter. It didn’t work. Attempted to start the engine multiple times and it appeared that the engine lacked fuel prime, so I would re-bleed the fuel system. It appeared good but wouldn’t start. Alberto suggested removing the excess fuel line from the engine feed on the possibility that cavitation had caused air bubbles to form in the excess fuel. I made a temporary change to the fuel lines and the 15B-ft fired right up at the next turn of the key. Major success. Major discovery. My temporary fuel line change plumbed the excess fuel into a small container, which filled up very rapidly from the running engine. Permanent change was needed promptly.
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Solution was route a dedicated flexible fuel line from the excess fuel outlet on the engine to a flex hose on the fuel tank. To have sufficient access to determine which line on the fuel tank to splice into and room to work, the fuel tank had to be dropped. Annoying but an acceptable one since this appeared to be the last one to enable road testing.
 
interesting.... the details and the devils
good to know, i might one day perform this dance too
 
Awesome work Larry , can't wait to see the BJ70 and you of course again ;-)

Are you bringing it to the Lonestar Round Up ?
 
Awesome work Larry , can't wait to see the BJ70 and you of course again ;-)

Are you bringing it to the Lonestar Round Up ?
Thank you.
Yes my plan is to drive the BJ70 to RoundUp. She is too much fun to leave at home.
 
Nice job Larry, you dont give yourself near enough credit with your capabilities.
Thank you Roma.
A more telling concern is that I didn't give enough credit to the help and encouragement that you and Alberto provided me. Thank you!
 
Wow, great write-up. Thanks for taking the time to explain the challenges. And, your writing ability/capability is just fine, no need for the disclaimer.

I did a 14B-T into my 3BII powered BJ75 a while back and had similar challenges, nice job working through them. I think the bell housing on the 3BII accepts the 14B (and maybe the 15B?) better than the 3B bell housing i.e. you can run the bigger flywheel and clutch and the support mounts work without customization. Sourcing one is probably tough though.

Did you have to source a different air cleaner assembly?
 
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Fantastic work. Hoping to see it (and you!) at Roundup.
 
Larry great write up!

You’re not giving yourself near enough credit.

In your past life vs cruisers, you got this!
 
Wow, great write-up. Thanks for taking the time to explain the challenges. And, your writing ability/capability is just fine, no need for the disclaimer.

I did a 14B-T into my 3BII powered BJ75 a while back and had similar challenges, nice job working through them. I think the bell housing on the 3BII accepts the 14B (and maybe the 15B?) better than the 3B bell housing i.e. you can run the bigger flywheel and clutch and the support mounts work without customization. Sourcing one is probably tough though.

Did you have to source a different air cleaner assembly?
Thank you

I am currently using the original air cleaner assembly, but I am starting to work through a change. Your question may indicate, my installation of the intercooler used the fresh air duct space to the air cleaner. My fix was to pull fresh air from low and outboard of the fan. This was never a good location for fresh air and it was risky for sucking up water, which I attempted to mitigate by adding a diverter cone onto the duct. My first offroad event proved that my concern was well founded and my mitigation cone was ineffective. At the event, there was a sloppy mud hole that required going through it at speed for ~15 yards which splashed mud everywhere ... including the cone. No mud or water made it past the cone, but the mud stuck then dried and restricted airflow. There was no indicators until I got back on the highway and tried to run 70mph. Power was lacking and EGT were higher than reasonable. At the next opportunity, I crawled under the truck and found the mud clogged cone. Removed it, spent an hour (or so) washing and reinstalling. Has run great since, but I have not had to deal with such mud since.

The possible solution that I am trying to explore is plagiarism from my bride's FZJ70 which was originally in Saudi Arabia. The FZJ70 pulls fresh air from upper right fender. Might not be the freshest air source, but pulling for the fender pocket would some natural water/mud shielding. i.e., The Toyota engineers appear to have a very good idea and I am going to try to steal it. More to follow.
 
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