150 Amp Alternator - Thanks Photoman (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Otamiway
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Delta VS
Supporting Vendor
and a 6th. if they are still available. or a picture of one and some measurements if they are not.
He's still making them. I PM'd him this weekend.
Delta VS
Supporting Vendor
Good to hear!
Yes, still making them. PM me if interested.
Where can the instructions be found?
I have send you many emails, but have never heard back. I want to buy your brackets and whatever goes along with it to upgrade to sequoia alternator.
The correct email address is in post #1 of this thread. It is best to PM me, but I reply to all email that I receive; or at least try to. Prices etc have changed from the link and I cannot edit the post.
There is a YouTube video of Gale Banks (Banks Engineering) receiving a Mechman Alternator for a Pro monster truck his company supports. I wondered if they make one for the 1FZ. Searched the Mechman site and no luck however, they have one for the 4.7, specifically in the 2003-2009 Sequoia. 240 amps!
Photoman’s bracket and a Sequoia 150a has been on my rig for the better part of a year now (awesome craftsmanship and support btw).
Might be an option for those heavily dependent on electrical power. Fit factors would be: case size and shaft size. I am going to call Mechman to see if they use the stock shaft size. If so, Photoman’s smaller pulley will fit.
Photoman’s bracket and a Sequoia 150a has been on my rig for the better part of a year now (awesome craftsmanship and support btw).
Might be an option for those heavily dependent on electrical power. Fit factors would be: case size and shaft size. I am going to call Mechman to see if they use the stock shaft size. If so, Photoman’s smaller pulley will fit.
@Photoman I'm sure this is answered somewhere and I just missed it, but in this wiring scenario, what happens with the fusible link and the little black box with the two ring terminals that connects (from the alternator and to other stuff, right?) to the battery via the fusible link - is that fully out of the equation with the white wires connected to the new fuse block? or does that just stay connected to the battery in stock configuration minus the white wiring (pretty sure this is the goal)?
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The one fusible link in the plastic box Main/AM1 either can be removed or disconnected and taped off. I believe it is the blue fusible link. It is the one that goes from battery positive to the Main terminal in the plastic box. I hope this answers the question.
Ahhhh ok, just that one then (yes, the blue one) - makes more sense now. Remove that wire, take the white wire from the Alternator B+ terminal, and mount to the alternator side of the new fuse block to maintain the alternator-supply failsafe circuitry from factory; leave the other half of the box hooked in as before. Thanks!
edit to say that my end solution involved actually unbolting the blue fusible link since it has own ring terminal on the battery side, cutting open the tape at the battery end (where the 3 fusible links meet) and removing the blue link entirely and retaping the remaining 2, thus leaving nothing exposed and needing to be taped off - I didn't realize this was possible, so leaving this as a record for others)
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Has anyone used upgraded their fan, alternator belt from oem to just a bit bigger? Maybe a 1/2 or 1 inch bigger?
Photoman, I completed the latest wiring suggestion that you posted above, and without the blue wire connected to anything, I don't get the christmas tree of lights to come up on the dash, so of course it won't start. Can you explain how the fusebox gets power from the aternator without this wire? This is for my 1997 FZJ80.
The large alternator terminal, the "B" terminal, should have just the new heavier charging wire on it. This heavier wire should then go from the alternator "B" post to one side of the new 150 amp fuse block. On this same fuse block terminal should be placed the old charging wire that was on the stock alternator "B" terminal. That stock ring terminal should have two wires in it. A heavier wire and a smaller wire. From the other side of the fuse block, a heavier wire goes to battery positive.
In the Main/Am1 plastic box, one fusible link should go to AM1. The other fusible link has it's own plastic connector. In the stock setup the blue wire fusible link used to connect to Main in the Main/AM1 plastic box. On this Main terminal was the white wire from the alternator "B" post that has now been moved to one side of the new 150 amp fuse hence no need to connect up the blue fusible link.
In the Main/Am1 plastic box, one fusible link should go to AM1. The other fusible link has it's own plastic connector. In the stock setup the blue wire fusible link used to connect to Main in the Main/AM1 plastic box. On this Main terminal was the white wire from the alternator "B" post that has now been moved to one side of the new 150 amp fuse hence no need to connect up the blue fusible link.
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Thanks. Nice pictures and a clean motor.
Okay, that makes sense now, and I know what I was doing wrong. I connected the single ring that was on the alternator B posted with the stock alternator back to the B post along with the new 4 gauge wire, and the other ends of the two white wires to the alternator side of the new 150A fuse block.
Now, my question is what do I do with the other ends of the white wires? I get why the blue wire is no longer needed in this configuration. I've removed the black plastic box that had the fusible link setup in it. Does that need to be reconnected now?
In the stock wiring the one white wire in the ring terminal was going from the alternator "B" post up to connect to the blue fusible link in the plastic box on the Main stud. The other end of the blue fusible link then went to battery positive.
When doing the upgrade, all that is being done is upgrading the charging wire that comes from the "B" alternator terminal, through a new 150 amp fuse, to battery positive. Since there is the new charging wire through a 150 amp fuse, the blue fusible link can be disconnected in the plastic box and end insulated, which disconnects the old white charging wire. The end of the old white charging wire on the Main can remain connected on the stud terminal since it now does nothing.
The other wire in the plastic box is not touched and should connect the other fusible link and AM1.
Now the reason the old terminal that was on the alternator "B" post still needs to be connected to alternator power is that second white wire that is crimped in the stock ring terminal. It sends power from the alternator to the under hood fuse box etc and powers circuits like the headlights and ecu among others if I remember correctly. This way if the fuse or fusible link blows, there is still power to the ecu, headlights etc being run off the alternator. Taking the stock ring terminal off the alternator "B" post and connecting it to the alternator side of the new fuse, we are still supplying power to that white wire that goes to the under hood fuse box.
Sorry about the long winded response. I have to try to explain it in my own way. Hope this helps.
When doing the upgrade, all that is being done is upgrading the charging wire that comes from the "B" alternator terminal, through a new 150 amp fuse, to battery positive. Since there is the new charging wire through a 150 amp fuse, the blue fusible link can be disconnected in the plastic box and end insulated, which disconnects the old white charging wire. The end of the old white charging wire on the Main can remain connected on the stud terminal since it now does nothing.
The other wire in the plastic box is not touched and should connect the other fusible link and AM1.
Now the reason the old terminal that was on the alternator "B" post still needs to be connected to alternator power is that second white wire that is crimped in the stock ring terminal. It sends power from the alternator to the under hood fuse box etc and powers circuits like the headlights and ecu among others if I remember correctly. This way if the fuse or fusible link blows, there is still power to the ecu, headlights etc being run off the alternator. Taking the stock ring terminal off the alternator "B" post and connecting it to the alternator side of the new fuse, we are still supplying power to that white wire that goes to the under hood fuse box.
Sorry about the long winded response. I have to try to explain it in my own way. Hope this helps.
