cruisedeisel
Toyota's for life
My wife and I are thinking about getting aviation head sets so we can talk to each other while driving my beast down the road.
14 bolt - 80 series?
- Thread starter cody c
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- Thread starter
- #22
Both the pinion, and differential itself are pooched, the ring is chewed up too, but the differential broke the throats off inside the side carrier bearing, I do have a spare though, had to borrow some bearings from a club member.
Borrowed the wife's 4Runner to try and find a 14 bolt at the local pick n pull auto wreckers, neither had a good candidate, I might try again in a month
Borrowed the wife's 4Runner to try and find a 14 bolt at the local pick n pull auto wreckers, neither had a good candidate, I might try again in a month
Would a Sterling 10.25 or 10.5 work for your application?
- Thread starter
- #24
Recent broken pinion with bearing, also broke throat off of differential, and a previous broken pinion
Also a 2.5:1 Ford 9 for fun
I'll probably wait and get a AAM 14 bolt, for aftermarket simplicity, shave kits, pinion flange, Detroit, etc.
Also a 2.5:1 Ford 9 for fun
I'll probably wait and get a AAM 14 bolt, for aftermarket simplicity, shave kits, pinion flange, Detroit, etc.
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- Thread starter
- #25
I got a 14 bolt and a 60 front via a most helpful fella who picked them for me on the weekend. The 80's axles will go his way once I've swapped axles.
The 14 bolt is a disc brake and in decent condition. I believe it is 4.10 or 4.11 ratio, not sure about what diff is in it, probably the LSD, regardless what it is, in the long term it will be a detroit. My budget is tiny, so I'll be building as many parts as possible.
I have an HX35W I purchased and rebuilt recently to replace the H1C that comes with the early 6BT, fabricating a top mount intercooler (mostly built) and getting it burnt together to install the new turbo will take precedence over the axle swap, but as I can I'm going to start cutting off brackets and crap to get ready for the swap.
Factory ford steel wheels will probably be used to match the front axle, with use of adapter spacers. The ford wheels have a slightly bigger (170mm vs 165.1) spacing and the fords have more offset (40mm vs 28) for factory wheels, so 1.5" spacers net about 1". Weld on bead locks to go from 17x7" to 17x9" is part of the long term plan, and sell off my 17" black steel 6 bolt wheels to swap the 38's over.
Running the 80 series driveshafts is probably what will happen, that could change but I want to run the full time 80 series case.
Need to figure out widths of the 80 SF, 2006 14 bolt and super 60 to see if there is going to be conflicts or if I need to run different wheels.
Also need to figure out a pinion flange, would like to use someone's lathe to build my own, I may pester a club member to see if I can use his lathe.
Edit: in interest of this being used for future builds and for my info:
Cruiser axle WMS: 63" (currently running 2" spacers rear for 67" total)
14 bolt SRW WMS (65" or 68" - drums vs discs) edit: mine seem to be 69"
Super 60 SRW WMS 72" front axle (currently running 1.5" spacers on toyota front for 66" total)
Currently running 17x9 - 5" BS Cragar steel wheels, with the spacers they are about ideal width with the 38x13.5 yoko geolanders
The 14 bolt is a disc brake and in decent condition. I believe it is 4.10 or 4.11 ratio, not sure about what diff is in it, probably the LSD, regardless what it is, in the long term it will be a detroit. My budget is tiny, so I'll be building as many parts as possible.
I have an HX35W I purchased and rebuilt recently to replace the H1C that comes with the early 6BT, fabricating a top mount intercooler (mostly built) and getting it burnt together to install the new turbo will take precedence over the axle swap, but as I can I'm going to start cutting off brackets and crap to get ready for the swap.
Factory ford steel wheels will probably be used to match the front axle, with use of adapter spacers. The ford wheels have a slightly bigger (170mm vs 165.1) spacing and the fords have more offset (40mm vs 28) for factory wheels, so 1.5" spacers net about 1". Weld on bead locks to go from 17x7" to 17x9" is part of the long term plan, and sell off my 17" black steel 6 bolt wheels to swap the 38's over.
Running the 80 series driveshafts is probably what will happen, that could change but I want to run the full time 80 series case.
Need to figure out widths of the 80 SF, 2006 14 bolt and super 60 to see if there is going to be conflicts or if I need to run different wheels.
Also need to figure out a pinion flange, would like to use someone's lathe to build my own, I may pester a club member to see if I can use his lathe.
Edit: in interest of this being used for future builds and for my info:
Cruiser axle WMS: 63" (currently running 2" spacers rear for 67" total)
14 bolt SRW WMS (65" or 68" - drums vs discs) edit: mine seem to be 69"
Super 60 SRW WMS 72" front axle (currently running 1.5" spacers on toyota front for 66" total)
Currently running 17x9 - 5" BS Cragar steel wheels, with the spacers they are about ideal width with the 38x13.5 yoko geolanders
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Might as well get rid of the split case now.
You won't be happy with the low end power of the HX35. Won't spool till somewhere around ~2000rpm. Once it does though, it'll set you into your seat.
You won't be happy with the low end power of the HX35. Won't spool till somewhere around ~2000rpm. Once it does though, it'll set you into your seat.
- Thread starter
- #27
Don't tell me that after all the work I put into the thing!
Smoothed out internal casting ridges, ground down the exhaust housing to smooth out casting nubs and casting or surface pitting, rebuild, painted, just waiting on aftermarket actuator.
Hopefully with the Denny T fuel pin it still hosts quick, the H1C had no problem making 30 psi, and I have no clue how old it is since or if it's last rebuild, other than the motor probably has over 700K km's on it. So it was time to do something for the turbo anyways.
You made 30psi with the stock H1C? Didn't think they could go that high.
Interested to hear how you like the HX35. Most who put it on a 4BT don't like it.
Interested to hear how you like the HX35. Most who put it on a 4BT don't like it.
- Thread starter
- #29
Haha, oh, thats what you based your comment on, that should be a totally different thing for the 6BT, the 4BT will only be moving 66% as much air through it as the 6BT.
My boost gauge only has markings up to about 25 psi, and the needle moves to where 30 would be and then stops, it looks like it would go further but that the maximum range of its movement by the looks of it. The Denny T fuel pin allows for much more fuel to move through and produce alot more boost.
I don't see that high of boost often, it's mostly when I turn onto the freeway and it's uphill and I'm heavy on it, 4th gear and 5th gear where i have more load.
The H1C will be rebuilt and sold if anyone is interested.
Back to the 14 bolt, I pulled the pinion last night, I plan to start making a pinion flange to match the toyota driveshaft shortly.
Also you are right about the split case, but plan is to go with a fulltime case in the long term, I'm tied up with too many other things to think about the split case right now though.
Oh s***, I'm sorry, forgot that you have a 6BT in your truck!! Ignore me 
Your driveshaft will be at an angle, with the centered diff, and the offset rear output of the split case, but it shouldn't be a big problem. Just make sure you don't over exceed the maximum angle of the driveshaft joints and you'll be good.
Your driveshaft will be at an angle, with the centered diff, and the offset rear output of the split case, but it shouldn't be a big problem. Just make sure you don't over exceed the maximum angle of the driveshaft joints and you'll be good.
What have you been doing for that kind of carnage?
- Thread starter
- #32
I assume your talking about the pinions at top? One was dropping the clutch in 2nd at an intersection, 37's on a hot day. Can't remember what the other was, probably something similar but it didn't show up after a specific event.
Can't drive like a teenager with these sissy 80 series axles I guess.
Edit: speaking of driveshafts, the only other thing I need to think about is if I go 60 series double cardan and point the pinion at the case or if I just keep the 14 pointed straight. There was a thread about swapping parts from 60 series, I need to find it.
DOUBLE EDIT: from the thread: My writeup skills suck but to try and clear things up again.
For a DC joint REAR shaft, ONLY a '96-'02 4x4 4runner rear shaft will work. The bolt pattern on the slip yoke end is NOT the same as the Land Cruiser. The DC joint end off the 4Runner will have to be tubed with the Land Cruiser slipe yoke on the other end.
ONLY ONLY a Tacoma REAR shaft can be used for the FRONT of the Land Cruiser. I've cut open another Tundra shaft and seen first hand why most drive line shops cannot or are not will to do so. The rear shaft off an Xtra or Crew Cab Prerunner/4x4 Tacoma will work.
As far as U-Joint interchange, there is NO cross to the u-joints in the DC joints. The WHOLE assembly must be replaced. The other u-joints can cross to several types of tucks/4runners/land cruisers but Toyota lists different part numbers for some reason. Keep in mind that the stock Land Cruiser rear shaft used LARGER u-joints, which crosses to previous Land Cruisers u-joints.
Double Cardan Drive Shaft Solutions
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- Thread starter
- #33
So, I am moving ahead with one ton axles, it will not be a quick swap, but hopefully I will get the 14B under the back before snow falls.
I have a few other knick knacks to be done too, do you guys figure I should start a thread here or in the 80 series section for specifically one ton swapping info (things learned, things to or not to do), or a specific build thread for my 80 here or in the 80's section for all the mods?
I really like reading about boots's Dora build up and that format, but have a bit less time for updates, and get distracted by other projects as well, but I like to take pictures of stuff and try and do things that haven't been done yet.
I have a few other knick knacks to be done too, do you guys figure I should start a thread here or in the 80 series section for specifically one ton swapping info (things learned, things to or not to do), or a specific build thread for my 80 here or in the 80's section for all the mods?
I really like reading about boots's Dora build up and that format, but have a bit less time for updates, and get distracted by other projects as well, but I like to take pictures of stuff and try and do things that haven't been done yet.
Why not keep updating this thread?
- Thread starter
- #35
can do just that.
- Thread starter
- #36
Some pictures to update:
Below is a 14 bolt yoke, the ears were ground off and then lathed flat, the OD to match the flange plate.
The flange plate is simply a landcruiser pinion flange with the splined neck cut off, I set it on the 14B yoke, using a dial indicator I got it within .005, tacked it in place and then rechecked it, using the pinion flange as a guide drilled the 14B yoke so I can tap it for M11 x 1.0 for the toyota driveshasft bolts
I'm taking a picture of the 14B brake line Tee, I plan to remove the soft line and drill and tap the body to match the soft line I have on my 80, I have a bunch of NPT taps, I should be able to make something work.
The last couple are Super 60 dana axle pics, specifically of the unit bearing, what you may not notice from initial pics is that these have been re-drilled with a tool/guide created for another local club member, they create a 8x6.5 hub pattern which matches the 14B, the hub bore needed to be taken down to 116.7mm from the 125mm or whatever the ford was.
You can see a notch I had to make in order to slide the studs in, moving from 170mm to 165.1mm (8x6.5) made things tighter.
The hubs are LOCK/FREE, they do not have the vacuum function.
I believe this front axle was from a 2006 F-250 or 350, it has the larger 1.5" diameter 35 spline shafts and bigger U-joints than standard Dana 60 axles, I believe the ring and pinion's are larger, 10" instead of 9.75"
I'm guessing it will be stronger than the 8"
Below is a 14 bolt yoke, the ears were ground off and then lathed flat, the OD to match the flange plate.
The flange plate is simply a landcruiser pinion flange with the splined neck cut off, I set it on the 14B yoke, using a dial indicator I got it within .005, tacked it in place and then rechecked it, using the pinion flange as a guide drilled the 14B yoke so I can tap it for M11 x 1.0 for the toyota driveshasft bolts
I'm taking a picture of the 14B brake line Tee, I plan to remove the soft line and drill and tap the body to match the soft line I have on my 80, I have a bunch of NPT taps, I should be able to make something work.
The last couple are Super 60 dana axle pics, specifically of the unit bearing, what you may not notice from initial pics is that these have been re-drilled with a tool/guide created for another local club member, they create a 8x6.5 hub pattern which matches the 14B, the hub bore needed to be taken down to 116.7mm from the 125mm or whatever the ford was.
You can see a notch I had to make in order to slide the studs in, moving from 170mm to 165.1mm (8x6.5) made things tighter.
The hubs are LOCK/FREE, they do not have the vacuum function.
I believe this front axle was from a 2006 F-250 or 350, it has the larger 1.5" diameter 35 spline shafts and bigger U-joints than standard Dana 60 axles, I believe the ring and pinion's are larger, 10" instead of 9.75"
I'm guessing it will be stronger than the 8"
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A DS drop, radius arm, ball joint, dana 60 from a late model super duty. Interesting choice.
You're committed to changing the transfer case now?
You're committed to changing the transfer case now?
- Thread starter
- #38
I'm going to a full time case, I knew I'd get questions about the drop. The housing is going to see alot of surgery, plan to make it passenger side. Someone here has the jig (pucks and 1" bar) to align things. The Super 60 will not be a small job. Looking at high steer arms in the long term, but my budget probably won't allow for the short term. If I'm swapping the drop, I might as well shorten it, I believe Dutchmen motors will respline the inner shaft(s) for about $55. That is part of the plan.
These are some wheels I picked up over the weekend, $45
They are dodge 8x6.5" bolt pattern, same as GM, they are a 17" x 7.5" steel wheel, I should be able to swap my tires over. I'm looking at beadlocks that will widen out to about 8.5-9" but the back spacing is ideal. The dodge wheels have a slightly larger hub bore than the GM, I have hub centric aluminum spacers on order, about $30 shipped from China.
As a note, the 8x6.5 GM wheel hub is about 116.7mm, wheel inside bore is 117 (ish)
The dodge is 120.3 and 120.7 depending on where you read or look these measurements vary.
Also, my other distraction, the rebuilt HX35, waiting on the wastegate still, hopefully get that in soon and make a small bit of space in the garage.
These are some wheels I picked up over the weekend, $45
They are dodge 8x6.5" bolt pattern, same as GM, they are a 17" x 7.5" steel wheel, I should be able to swap my tires over. I'm looking at beadlocks that will widen out to about 8.5-9" but the back spacing is ideal. The dodge wheels have a slightly larger hub bore than the GM, I have hub centric aluminum spacers on order, about $30 shipped from China.
As a note, the 8x6.5 GM wheel hub is about 116.7mm, wheel inside bore is 117 (ish)
The dodge is 120.3 and 120.7 depending on where you read or look these measurements vary.
Also, my other distraction, the rebuilt HX35, waiting on the wastegate still, hopefully get that in soon and make a small bit of space in the garage.
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Very exciting.
