130 amp alternator install in 00 LX

[hoser]

The Sequoia/Tundra came with 130A or 150A (optional) alternators from the factory. But note: the Sequoia/Tundra 130A alternator appears to be different internally than an LC 130A alternator. I eventually went back to an LC 130A alternator.

 

[awesomeissquid]

The Sequoia/Tundra came with 130A or 150A (optional) alternators from the factory. But note: the Sequoia/Tundra 130A alternator appears to be different internally than an LC 130A alternator. I eventually went back to an LC 130A alternator.

Good to know. Can you share any details/pictures of how you connected the additional charge cable to the positive battery terminal.

 

[BnvS]

Good to know. Can you share any details/pictures of how you connected the additional charge cable to the positive battery terminal.

All you have to do is change the 100amp 3 pin to 4 pin of the 130-150amp alternator. You use the same battery terminal.

 

[hoser]

Good to know. Can you share any details/pictures of how you connected the additional charge cable to the positive battery terminal.

Page 3 or so of this attachment

LX470 Family Adventure Rig

The boots on mine look exactly like yours. The bushing on cylinder in the middle are pretty shot too. The whole assembly will wiggle with movement with the steering wheel. No power steering fluid missing though! Back burner for sure. ...via IH8MUD app I have not lost any fluid either. I am...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Eyedaho]

I started hearing whining noise a few days ago, charging voltage was dropping, and my alternator was very hot to the touch and smelled like burning...plastic? I could also hear noise through the stereo with no music playing that was the same frequency as the under hood whine.

Thanks to the great information in this thread, I swapped for a genuine Denso rebuilt 130A for the later build years (mine is a '99) tonight and the noise is gone and charging voltage is back to normal.

I'm a little bummed that my less than 3 year old alternator that's a genuine Denso rebuilt for Toyota failed already.

I did want to add a couple pictures to maybe help some folks with de-pinning the connector.

Note that there is a secondary retention mechanism that you slide out by prying in the little divot with a tiny screwdriver or something similar. Your pins won't release without unlatching this! It's pretty common on the Sumitomo/Toyota connectors that if there's a different color piece that it may be a secondary retention mechanism:

Once that piece is released, you can slide your pry device of choice (dedicated pin tool, tiny thin screwdriver, etc) along the face of the pin to release the little black plastic lever. If you completely remove the white piece you can see the little levers. You're prying it away from the pin to release it from these ears:

Also, Sumitomo does make plugs for unused holes for the TS 090 series connectors (for the extra pin location):

 

[harshjay]

this whole thread is awesome! I never knew of this option / modification, until I ordered the wrong year for my 02 LC.

 

[harshjay]

Next up wiring. I pulled the wires up into the engine bay and unwrapped the stock electrical tape. Then cut off the plug close to the connector so you don’t loose length but DO leave enough to be able to identify your wires. I then cut back the sheath the wires are in roughly 3/4-1 inch for working room. Then make your connections. You can solder but I just used butt connectors that double as heat shrink. I have no qualms using these vs solder whatsoever. I then heat shrunk again over those. I then fully taped over the wires and then placed them in split conduit. I then fully wrapped this again! You will see a place on the rubber boot where it’s designed to be taped over to hold it in place. Do it.

Note: The new pigtails are a larger gauge than the wires they connect to. They will not fit in the red 18-22g butt connectors. You will need to separate and cut roughly 1/3 of the strands.

Also: Don’t buy cheap tape, heat shrink, conduit, etc. it really makes a difference past about a year! Try to terminate all tape/heat shrink in such a way as to prevent water/oil intrusion. I’m not certain if this is the proper way but that’s how I do it. Pin out diagram provided by other Mudders. THANK YOU!!!

View attachment 2628389
View attachment 2628391

View attachment 2628393

View attachment 2628394

View attachment 2628395

man, getting that connector is a task up here in Canada. No dice online, unless I wait a month. Had to skip work, and go into a rebuilder store.

 

[hoser]

The 4-pin connector is not specific to Toyota/Lexus. It is used on any make that uses an OE Denso alternator like Honda/Acura.

 

[harshjay]

The 4-pin connector is not specific to Toyota/Lexus. It is used on any make that uses an OE Denso alternator like Honda/Acura.

yup, still nothing to be had in Canada at any auto parts stores. Month long shipping to $60 shipping for $5 part. Canada sucks.

 

[BnvS]

man, getting that connector is a task up here in Canada. No dice online, unless I wait a month. Had to skip work, and go into a rebuilder store.

Bro, the 4 pin connector as @hoser mentioned is not specific to Toyo.... its the following part number from Female Sumitomo part number - 6189-0694 I am sure other OE manufactures will have similar part. Also look for my post if you are doing from 3 pin to 4 pin and how your wiring attaches to the 4 pin connector.

BTW to replace it.. the whole white face of the plug comes out and then you take the individual pins out one by one. I did the 3-4pin connector swap from under the car. Once you know how to take the pins out and how that works its pretty easy to swap it out.

 

[harshjay]

Bro, the 4 pin connector as @hoser mentioned is not specific to Toyo.... its the following part number from Female Sumitomo part number - 6189-0694 I am sure other OE manufactures will have similar part. Also look for my post if you are doing from 3 pin to 4 pin and how your wiring attaches to the 4 pin connector.

BTW to replace it.. the whole white face of the plug comes out and then you take the individual pins out one by one. I did the 3-4pin connector swap from under the car. Once you know how to take the pins out and how that works its pretty easy to swap it out.

View attachment 3185056

View attachment 3185058

looks good, easy work..if you can get ahold of these parts in a timely fashion..LC is taking up my whole garage right now..need it out!

 

[BnvS]

looks good, easy work..if you can get ahold of these parts in a timely fashion..LC is taking up my whole garage right now..need it out!

Hehe Looks like you may be new to having an 15-20+ year old car.. always plan..plan and plan some more before doing anything on it.. also preventive maintenance is better than being stranded at the side of the road. The good part is most any major maintenance on the car has been detailed on this forum, from parts numbers to procedure, pics, pitfalls are all documented.. so at least you'll know what you are getting into before you even take the plunge of fixing the issue..

 

[white_lx]

man, getting that connector is a task up here in Canada. No dice online, unless I wait a month. Had to skip work, and go into a rebuilder store.

Partsouq seems to have them in stock. Usually takes 3-4 days to get my order from them (to my front door!). Always beats the dealer in time and price. Even at a few bucks more I will order from them, because the quoted dealer delivery times never seem correct.