130 amp alternator install in 00 LX (1 Viewer)

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Peachtree City, GA
Hey this is probably not news but just documenting my install should it help anyone. I’ve install a Denso remanufactured 130 amp alternator (part number 210-1099) as a PM/ upgrade to my stock 80 amp alternator. Fit guide shows this alternator as being compatible with 03-07 100 series, 07-09 GX, and 07-09 4 runners. Here we go.

New VS old. Note the third mounting location, different connector, lack of threaded stud, and the mount for the cable bracket is smaller (M6 vs original has M8 threads) as well as being generally slightly smaller. Importantly the pulleys are both same the diameter, 5 groove, and same distance from mounting locations.

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As noted by others you will need the new connector (part number 90980-11964, $12.56) and want the pigtails (part number 82998-12440, $8.27 each times 3). THANK YOU Others!

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Step one find an appropriate M6 (M6 x .8 I believe). I used a 6mm button cap screw because it’s a common bicycle side so I have lots of them. I used a washer and a lock washer. This hole is .520 deep so +/- 12mm.

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Next up wiring. I pulled the wires up into the engine bay and unwrapped the stock electrical tape. Then cut off the plug close to the connector so you don’t loose length but DO leave enough to be able to identify your wires. I then cut back the sheath the wires are in roughly 3/4-1 inch for working room. Then make your connections. You can solder but I just used butt connectors that double as heat shrink. I have no qualms using these vs solder whatsoever. I then heat shrunk again over those. I then fully taped over the wires and then placed them in split conduit. I then fully wrapped this again! You will see a place on the rubber boot where it’s designed to be taped over to hold it in place. Do it.

Note: The new pigtails are a larger gauge than the wires they connect to. They will not fit in the red 18-22g butt connectors. You will need to separate and cut roughly 1/3 of the strands.

Also: Don’t buy cheap tape, heat shrink, conduit, etc. it really makes a difference past about a year! Try to terminate all tape/heat shrink in such a way as to prevent water/oil intrusion. I’m not certain if this is the proper way but that’s how I do it. Pin out diagram provided by other Mudders. THANK YOU!!!

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Next you’ll need to remove the third mounting tab. Tape the alternator well to prevent scratches and debris from cutting. Again tape it very well! Then cut, smooth and polish. It’s aluminum so it cuts very easy. A hacksaw and a file will do just fine if that all you got.

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Then install and test. I was able to remove and install the alternator without having to remove anything more than the air intake tube and unbolting the power steering pump (3 17mm deep sockets through the pulley) and pushing it out of the way. I removed and installed the alternator through the bottom snaking it out past the radiator and lower radiator hose without much issue.

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Obviously disconnect the battery before starting, safety 3rd, etc. Can someone confirm 13.83 volts is correct? I would expect somewhere 14.25 or more.

Thanks again other Mud people! I hope having this in one place helps someone. I welcome constructive criticism, hints, tips, corrections, etc.
 
Top Notch Post.
Thanks for taking the time to Document.
 
Stupid question.. probably not possible. When doing this...swap why can't you just take the 130A out and put it into the 100A alternator housing. No need to do modifications or anything? would that to too difficult to do? I mean if you doing all this...might as well figure out just to swap the housing.
 
Great post. I'd look to make an adapter that plugs between 4 pin and 3 ping prongs, as I don't like cutting up the factory wiring.

As long as the OEM wires are long enough to connect to the new spot (should be), you should be able to knock the pins out of one connector housing and insert them into the newer connector. You just need the right tool, like the Prison Shank. That's just an example, there are other and cheaper tools as well. You could even grind down one of the Harbor Freight freebie screwdrivers.

Too late for OP, but it looks like a job well done anyway.
 
Stupid question.. probably not possible. When doing this...swap why can't you just take the 130A out and put it into the 100A alternator housing. No need to do modifications or anything? would that to too difficult to do? I mean if you doing all this...might as well figure out just to swap the housing.
That is a good question! The thought did not even occur to me. I honestly primarily did this as I had purchased this one and could not return it.
 
As long as the OEM wires are long enough to connect to the new spot (should be), you should be able to knock the pins out of one connector housing and insert them into the newer connector. You just need the right tool, like the Prison Shank. That's just an example, there are other and cheaper tools as well. You could even grind down one of the Harbor Freight freebie screwdrivers.

Too late for OP, but it looks like a job well done anyway.
The pins were a different shape otherwise this would have much easier.
 
Great post. I'd look to make an adapter that plugs between 4 pin and 3 ping prongs, as I don't like cutting up the factory wiring.
I hear ya! I will do the same thing in reverse so I can rebuild the original and carry it with me as a spare. As it’s a 100 series alternator so I don’t mind chopping things up but I get your point.
 
Welp...scratch that. Good to know.
Looking at the pictures again your probably right the first time. I’m really not sure.
 
Hi folks, I managed to find this adapter that converts from the Denso 3 pin to a 4 pin adapter the 130amp alternator for my LX470. My question is where do I connect the white cable with that ring to? I'm doing the same mod. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks very much.🌻

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Hi folks, I managed to find this adapter that converts from the Denso 3 pin to a 4 pin adapter the 130amp alternator for my LX470. My question is where do I connect the white cable with that ring to? I'm doing the same mod. Any advice would be greatly appreciated! Thanks very much.🌻

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Cant help with the connection, but care to share a link to the adapter plug?
 
Cant help with the connection, but care to share a link to the adapter plug?

It does ship from Malaysia to the US via air for a small shipping cost. HX-7342.

I bought one of these for a future upgrade to a higher output denso with the 4 pin plug.
 
Cant help with the connection, but care to share a link to the adapter plug?
Yes, the product is from the company Hong Xuan as per link below. Hopefully it is helpful. They're very responsive when I enquired, but the sales guy didn't know where that white cable goes. 😆
 
I'm no electrician but I would assume the eyelet just goes to a nearby ground.
Do you mean ground on the car body? I was wondering if it's meant for the nut here on alternator body? But there's already an existing cable with the eye in the LX470 when I removed old alternator. 🤔 The fact that they manufactured such an adapter specifically for the Denso 3 to 4 pin is interesting. Any further advice would be appreciated ... Thanks!

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Do you mean ground on the car body? I was wondering if it's meant for the nut here on alternator body? But there's already an existing cable with the eye in the LX470 when I removed old alternator. 🤔 The fact that they manufactured such an adapter specifically for the Denso 3 to 4 pin is interesting. Any further advice would be appreciated ... Thanks!

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Definitely not that connection on the alternator body. @MongooseGA was referring to a body ground. Honestly if you look at the original posts from @hotdiggitydamn, there was no connection to the pin #4 so you could ignore it as well most likely.
 
So let's say your alternator burns out when you out in the wilds and you need to swap it out in the AutoZone parking lot, how do you get an alternator with the tab already cut off or the correct harness connector? I think it would be more prudent to have a 100 series specific rewound for higher amperage at an alternator shop then you can just swap in a standard 100 amp from the parts store if you get in a bind.
 

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