The Sequoia/Tundra came with 130A or 150A (optional) alternators from the factory. But note: the Sequoia/Tundra 130A alternator appears to be different internally than an LC 130A alternator. I eventually went back to an LC 130A alternator.
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Good to know. Can you share any details/pictures of how you connected the additional charge cable to the positive battery terminal.The Sequoia/Tundra came with 130A or 150A (optional) alternators from the factory. But note: the Sequoia/Tundra 130A alternator appears to be different internally than an LC 130A alternator. I eventually went back to an LC 130A alternator.
Good to know. Can you share any details/pictures of how you connected the additional charge cable to the positive battery terminal.
Page 3 or so of this attachmentGood to know. Can you share any details/pictures of how you connected the additional charge cable to the positive battery terminal.
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man, getting that connector is a task up here in Canada. No dice online, unless I wait a month. Had to skip work, and go into a rebuilder store.Next up wiring. I pulled the wires up into the engine bay and unwrapped the stock electrical tape. Then cut off the plug close to the connector so you don’t loose length but DO leave enough to be able to identify your wires. I then cut back the sheath the wires are in roughly 3/4-1 inch for working room. Then make your connections. You can solder but I just used butt connectors that double as heat shrink. I have no qualms using these vs solder whatsoever. I then heat shrunk again over those. I then fully taped over the wires and then placed them in split conduit. I then fully wrapped this again! You will see a place on the rubber boot where it’s designed to be taped over to hold it in place. Do it.
Note: The new pigtails are a larger gauge than the wires they connect to. They will not fit in the red 18-22g butt connectors. You will need to separate and cut roughly 1/3 of the strands.
Also: Don’t buy cheap tape, heat shrink, conduit, etc. it really makes a difference past about a year! Try to terminate all tape/heat shrink in such a way as to prevent water/oil intrusion. I’m not certain if this is the proper way but that’s how I do it. Pin out diagram provided by other Mudders. THANK YOU!!!
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yup, still nothing to be had in Canada at any auto parts stores. Month long shipping to $60 shipping for $5 part. Canada sucks.The 4-pin connector is not specific to Toyota/Lexus. It is used on any make that uses an OE Denso alternator like Honda/Acura.
man, getting that connector is a task up here in Canada. No dice online, unless I wait a month. Had to skip work, and go into a rebuilder store.
looks good, easy work..if you can get ahold of these parts in a timely fashion..LC is taking up my whole garage right now..need it out!Bro, the 4 pin connector as @hoser mentioned is not specific to Toyo.... its the following part number from Female Sumitomo part number - 6189-0694 I am sure other OE manufactures will have similar part. Also look for my post if you are doing from 3 pin to 4 pin and how your wiring attaches to the 4 pin connector.
BTW to replace it.. the whole white face of the plug comes out and then you take the individual pins out one by one. I did the 3-4pin connector swap from under the car. Once you know how to take the pins out and how that works its pretty easy to swap it out.
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looks good, easy work..if you can get ahold of these parts in a timely fashion..LC is taking up my whole garage right now..need it out!
man, getting that connector is a task up here in Canada. No dice online, unless I wait a month. Had to skip work, and go into a rebuilder store.