12v - 110v inverters (1 Viewer)

[NorCalFJ100]

Nice clean setup @NorCalFJ100. I’m taking notes for my install next month. Like how you mounted plugs and controller on your drawer wing. Looks like Dobinson drawers, which is what I will be installing. What air hardware did you use to get from the compressor to the final mounted chuck? What is the bottom left plug? Do you have your install detailed in a build thread?

No. Unfortunately I did not document it very well. I basically copied @midfat with his air setup except I didn't end up taking it outside the truck. I left it on the drawer wing. The bottom left is just a blue sea cigarette outlet.

Happy to answer questions though if anything piques your interest any further.

 

[LandLocked93]

Be sure to consider that while non-low-frequency inverters may post a 'surge' rating, the surge is only allowed for tenths of a second before the the inverter trips to error.
By contrast, the LF inverters allow surging for minutes at a time, depending on the amount of surge beyond its rated RMS output. Ex, my 2000w rms pure sine can surge to 4000w for up to ten seconds. Extrapolating down it can surge for longer periods of time.
That said, there are no LF inverteres that will fit behind a 1/4 panel. lol They are the long, tall, heavy inverters, due to the coil inside.

 

[OffRoadScott]

I do not plan on running any super-sensitive equipment off the inverter, mainly my sleep apnea machine.

For wiring purposes would the masses recommend running power lines through the firewall via a grommet or a pass-through attached to the firewall? Obviously, I would have rubber insulators on both ends.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

I do not plan on running any super-sensitive equipment off the inverter, mainly my sleep apnea machine.

For wiring purposes would the masses recommend running power lines through the firewall via a grommet or a pass-through attached to the firewall? Obviously, I would have rubber insulators on both ends.

View attachment 2635500

I definitely suggest bringing one wire for positive and negative wire from the battery to the QPM area. I summed up my system and demand and determined that 2awg for each was fine for me. Not overkill by any stretch, but sufficient.

 

[OffRoadScott]

I definitely suggest bringing one wire for positive and negative wire from the battery to the QPM area. I summed up my system and demand and determined that 2awg for each was fine for me. Not overkill by any stretch, but sufficient.

I believe the Blue Sea fuse panel I am looking at has a post for both (+) and (-).

 

[NorCalFJ100]

I believe the Blue Sea fuse panel I am looking at has a post for both (+) and (-).

Yes. Very true. I was just clarifying I bought a negative wire directly from the battery. I've seen setups where people used a chassis ground in the rear.

 

[OffRoadScott]

Yes. Very true. I was just clarifying I bought a negative wire directly from the battery. I've seen setups where people used a chassis ground in the rear.

Might be overkill but I might just run a ground wire from the fuse panel to the chassis ground as well.

Are you running a second battery? How much of a pain was that wiring up and what gauge wire did you use for that?

 

[NorCalFJ100]

Might be overkill but I might just run a ground wire from the fuse panel to the chassis ground as well.

Are you running a second battery? How much of a pain was that wiring up and what gauge wire did you use for that?

Very easy to run the wires. I pulled off the top radiator cross member. Ran it under there. Single battery. Again, other than my fridge I don't have much consistent amp draw. When I'm camping I'm rarely stationary for more than 1-2 days. Ice gone 4-5 days without turning my truck on at home with my fridge plugged in the entire time.

I have a hand throttle when I'm winching or airing up.

 

[OffRoadScott]

Very easy to run the wires. I pulled off the top radiator cross member. Ran it under there. Single battery. Again, other than my fridge I don't have much consistent amp draw. When I'm camping I'm rarely stationary for more than 1-2 days. Ice gone 4-5 days without turning my truck on at home with my fridge plugged in the entire time.

I have a hand throttle when I'm winching or airing up.

Thanks for all the input. I need to get myself one of those hand throttles.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

I did just buy the alternator upgrade kit from Photoman. I'm contemplating that upgrade. I'm sure a 2nd battery is in my future, but for now I think I'm good. I also carry a secondary emergency portable jumpstart battery.

 

[OffRoadScott]

I did just buy the alternator upgrade kit from Photoman. I'm contemplating that upgrade. I'm sure a 2nd battery is in my future, but for now I think I'm good. I also carry a secondary emergency portable jumpstart battery.

So he is still making those adapters huh? I need to get one for myself too. Annoying watching the voltage gauge move when I have my signals on sitting at a stoplight.

I have one of those NOCO battery boxes and have been really happy with it.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

So he is still making those adapters huh? I need to get one for myself too. Annoying watching the voltage gauge move when I have my signals on sitting at a stoplight.

I have one of those NOCO battery boxes and have been really happy with it.

I have a Northstar Battery. I have a scanguage as well so I can keep a solid eye on what's going on with the charge. My system doesn't skip a beat until I fire up the compressor. Which is the one reason I'm considering the alternator upgrade.

Obviously not sure what your total setup is...you may be running more accessories than me.

NSB-AGM27

www.northstarbattery.com

 

[NorCalFJ100]

Yes @Photoman is making the kits.

I also haven't fully tested the limits of my inverter. I just installed that the other week. I only plan to use it for charging laptops, maybe some lights while camping and a low watt coffee brewer (which I'll probably turn my truck on for that) but ultimately will be testing that soon. Still looking for the ideal coffee machine.

 

[OffRoadScott]

I have a Northstar Battery. I have a scanguage as well so I can keep a solid eye on what's going on with the charge. My system doesn't skip a beat until I fire up the compressor. Which is the one reason I'm considering the alternator upgrade.

Obviously not sure what your total setup is...you may be running more accessories than me.

NSB-AGM27

www.northstarbattery.com

Currently, I am only running a LED light bar and winch. But as mentioned earlier with the gauge moving when signaling I am not running any accessories. The battery and charging system are a concern of mine.

 

[NorCalFJ100]

Currently, I am only running a LED light bar and winch. But as mentioned earlier with the gauge moving when signaling I am not running any accessories. The battery and charging system are a concern of mine.

I'd get a bluetooth obd2 adapter or a scanguage to keep an exact eye on it. The oem gauges can be misleading. I've ran more than what you have on my oem setup and have been totally fine.

 

[chap79]

It’s easy to install a stand alone voltmeter (single of dual) with a relay so that it’s only on when the truck is on. I find it best to hook directly to the pos+ of the battery as there is voltage drop when reading from some other part of the electrical system.

Also when choosing the cable size for your inverter remember to take in account for the length of the run. Too small of gauge will get hot and risk starting a fire. Whatever gauge is recommended in the manual is usually only for 6’-10’ runs. At 15’-20’ from the battery to the RQP I’d be looking for at least 2ga to power a 1500w inverter, maybe even 0ga. Fused at the battery with a 150amp MIDI.

 

[OffRoadScott]

It’s easy to install a stand alone voltmeter (single of dual) with a relay so that it’s only on when the truck is on. I find it best to hook directly to the pos+ of the battery as there is voltage drop when reading from some other part of the electrical system.

Also when choosing the cable size for your inverter remember to take in account for the length of the run. Too small of gauge will get hot and risk starting a fire. Whatever gauge is recommended in the manual is usually only for 6’-10’ runs. At 15’-20’ from the battery to the RQP I’d be looking for at least 2ga to power a 1500w inverter, maybe even 0ga. Fused at the battery with a 150amp MIDI.

Makes sense as to the wiring and the required gauge wire. Wouldn't want my s*** burning to the ground. The inverter I am looking at I believe is only 1000w but better safe than sorry.

 

[greentruck]

I do not plan on running any super-sensitive equipment off the inverter, mainly my sleep apnea machine.

Based on my experience, I'd suggest a different solution for this particular application as I also depend on the truck to run my CPAP (which includes a humidifier.) It is especially applicable to single-battery systems, although I run mine on two: a primary battery that provides starting and most auxiliary uses like the fridge; and the Auxiliary battery that provides the main source for an Anderson Power Pole connector that I plug my CPAP 12 volt convertor into that can also be used as a backup starting battery.

I found that running the power through an inverter to change it to 110 V then back to 12 V to power the CPAP through its own power source tended to deplete the single battery I had the CPAP hooked up to. Each time you convert electricity you lose some power through heat and the conversion process. Maybe my cheap HF inverter isn't as efficient, I don't know?

That's when I installed the Power Pole connector and made a pigtail that offers a lighter socket to plug the CPAP power source directly into the Auxiliary battery. That way, the power source sees 12 V just once, rather than going from 12 V to 110 V then back to 12 V again. This significantly reduced the draw on my Auxiliary battery, but could be even more important if you will still be on a single battery system for now.

BTW, I found a cheap source of cabling to the rear in a set of cheapo jumper cables. The plastic coating is soft so you should protect it in a sleeve of wire looming of some sort and I used rubber grommets to lead it through the firewall. This provided plenty of capacity.

 

[LandLocked93]

For wiring purposes would the masses recommend running power lines through the firewall via a grommet or a pass-through attached to the firewall? Obviously, I would have rubber insulators on both ends.

I used the existing grommet on drivers side of the firewall, right of the brake booster. Didn't want a major power line exposed to the elements by running low, underneath the truck.
IMO, the bulkhead devices introduce physical connections (crimps/terminals/etc) where you would rather get away with none if possible.

As far running just positive or both pos and neg, it can be done either way. In my setup, the grounds are local. There is only a single cable carrying power (+) from front to rear of the truck. At the rear, just made sure the ground is to chassis and frame.

I'm also using the Blue Sea fuse box, 12-port. Good stuff so far.

 

[lumbee1]

This is a very interesting thread. I recently purchased some 4AWG and 10AWG wiring to redo my rear 12V setup. The 4AWG for 40A power to the rear and the 10AWG through a relay to power my fridge. I love the QPM that Joey offers, just not the price and I prefer a much cleaner look with stock paneling. I will be making a much smaller one to hold my power distribution blocks. I have no intention of running an inverter since I can't see why I would need one and have a jackery 160 for portable 120V that can be recharged through my 12V system.