reset wipers via direct 12V supply to wiper motor pins (1 Viewer)

[brainhax]

Hi there,
Which pins I should be connecting with Direct 12V supply on the motor to move the wipers out of my vision.. they are stuck in the middle of the windscreen..

There is another issue with the wiper motor fuse though, but I am sure motor is fine and if I short circuit the right pins, it will move the wipers..

 

[jonheld]

Can't look it up for you as I'm on the road. All info is in the Toyota EWD that is available in the resources section.
Free download.

The "return to home" switch is internal to the motor.

 

[brainhax]

Not very electrical minded, need help to understand this. Which number is +ve and which is -ve ? (1,2,3,5,6)

I will just follow that on the pins here to move the wiper away, as its just stuck in the middle ...

 

[Kernal]

"they (the wiper arms) are stuck in the middle of the windscreen"

Do you mean they won't move at all or that every time you shut the wipers off they park themselves in that position?

Was any service performed on the wiring, wiper arms, motor, or linkage previous to the current problem showing up??

 

[brainhax]

"they (the wiper arms) are stuck in the middle of the windscreen"

Do you mean they won't move at all or that every time you shut the wipers off they park themselves in that position?

Was any service performed on the wiring, wiper arms, motor, or linkage previous to the current problem showing up??

 

[brainhax]

last time they move, the fuse blown and wipers stopped.. Now when ever I put in a new fuse, it just blows up and wiper do not move..
That is another issue which I asked for help in another thread
For now, I just want to move the wipers out of my sight. I am thinking, if its possible, if i just directly supply 12V to some pins on the motor..
which pin is +ve and which one is -ve?

 

[ppc]

For now, I just want to move the wipers out of my sight.

Just remove the wiper arms, one bolt each

 

[Kernal]

@brainhax : Repeating myself from other threads. IME if the motor itself is (internally) physically stuck that might draw too many amps?? IME this can happen when the field coil magnets come loose from inside the motor where the armature is located. The motor may either become very loud from the armature grinding against the magnet but it still rotates, or the magnets totally lock up the armature so no movement but the motor will draw more amps and get very warm.


Example of internal rust showing one magnet that had broken loose from the case and was stuck to (and rubbing on) the armature:

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bottom photo shows the inside of the case cleaned up, armature removed along with the loose magnet.
The wiper motor in the photo below still worked (slowly). Another wiper motor (not shown) where both magnets had pulled loose
did not rotate but also got very hot when attempting to run the wipers:

 

[brainhax]

@brainhax : Repeating myself from other threads. IME if the motor itself is (internally) physically stuck that might draw too many amps?? IME this can happen when the field coil magnets come loose from inside the motor where the armature is located. The motor may either become very loud from the armature grinding against the magnet but it still rotates, or the magnets totally lock up the armature so no movement but the motor will draw more amps and get very warm.


Example of internal rust showing one magnet that has broken loose and was rubbing on the armature:

View attachment 3891310
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bottom photo shows the inside of the case cleaned up, armature removed along with the loose magnet.
The wiper motor in the photo below still worked but another motor (not shown) where both magnets pulled loose did not rotate and got very hot
when attempting to use it:

View attachment 3891311

Thanks for sharing this.
The motor is not connected at all. As can be seen in the picture 1 in this thread.
Fuse is blowing up as soon as the key is turned to "ON" . Means there is short-circuit some where, which I couldn't trace so far...

 

[jonheld]

Disconnect the rear wiper motor. The fuse supplies +12 to both.
The rear also has a separate control relay.
Use a meter as opposed to wasting fuses.

 

[brainhax]

Disconnect the rear wiper motor. The fuse supplies +12 to both.
The rear also has a separate control relay.
Use a meter as opposed to wasting fuses.

Yes done that already.

Disconnect the rear wiper motor. The fuse supplies +12 to both.
The rear also has a separate control relay.
Use a meter as opposed to wasting fuses.

Been there done that . Today cleaned many connectors in engine bay. Wiggled the wires etc. There must be a tool to diagnose the short circuit. Don't know which one to buy.
I been told , when the issue is fixed, the light will turn off. Is that true ?

 

[jonheld]

Divide and conquer with a meter and the EWD.
You're popping a 20 amp fuse, so I'd be looking for a hard short to ground.
Disconnect connector EA4 which will divide the B+ feed between front and rear and isolate the spray motor.
If the short still exists, it's likely the stalk switch or associated wiring.
If it clears, then inspect the spray motor and wiring, and move on to the rear.

 

[brainhax]

Divide and conquer with a meter and the EWD.
You're popping a 20 amp fuse, so I'd be looking for a hard short to ground.
Disconnect connector EA4 which will divide the B+ feed between front and rear and isolate the spray motor.
If the short still exists, it's likely the stalk switch or associated wiring.
If it clears, then inspect the spray motor and wiring, and move on to the rear.

How would I know that the issue has been fixed. Do I need a tool for this troubleshooting or the globe in the picture above will be off when the issue is fixed. ?

 

[jonheld]

How would I know that the issue has been fixed. Do I need a tool for this troubleshooting or the globe in the picture above will be off when the issue is fixed. ?

Did the test light come with instructions?

 

[brainhax]

Divide and conquer with a meter and the EWD.
You're popping a 20 amp fuse, so I'd be looking for a hard short to ground.
Disconnect connector EA4 which will divide the B+ feed between front and rear and isolate the spray motor.
If the short still exists, it's likely the stalk switch or associated wiring.
If it clears, then inspect the spray motor and wiring, and move on to the rear.

Hi,
I am looking into this today , bit confused with EA4 as I am in Australia and following the EWD from this site resources section.
Am I suppose to find the EA4 on the right side?

 

[brainhax]

Update:
Disconnected the EA4 behind the Airbox as per the diagram, disconnected rear motor and tester light is Still ON.

 

[jonheld]

I would be using a meter monitoring from the load side of that fuse to ground. I don't think I've ever used a test light in my life. At the very least you should read the instructions on how to use it properly.