123*F, parked on the freeway in traffic (1 Viewer)

[midfat]

I'd vote for thicker silicone in the fan clutch as well. I did this a few years ago and it made a noticeable difference in engine temps.

@midfat do you go down to Palm Springs often? I think I may have seen you a few weeks (maybe its been 1-2 months) ago driving on the 74. (Was driving my Ford though). I've lived here my entire life and it was my first time going over there!

@bajaphile Strong possibility it was me. I visit Palm Springs not infrequently, and I was there about two months back, and I did drive 74 up through Idyllwild on my way home. To many specific details not to deem this highly probable.

Several great suggestions above to help manage in the extreme heat. Overall, I wasn’t totally shocked given the multiple extreme circumstance of the moment, but having some more cards to play definitely helps. The hand throttle is an especially easy one that seems affordable. I’m just not ready to snorkel yet, so raising the revs seems prudent.

In a strange way, building our trucks to handle the most extreme scenarios is kinda what makes this fun.

 

[z531519]

There's a thread somewhere here where @NLXTACY did that, looked like something straight from NASA. I believe he came to the consensus that a snorkel was the best way to lower IAT .

good to know, coz mine would have looked totally opposite of what came from NASA .

 

[Marco Lau]

@bajaphile Strong possibility it was me. I visit Palm Springs not infrequently, and I was there about two months back, and I did drive 74 up through Idyllwild on my way home. To many specific details not to deem this highly probable.

Several great suggestions above to help manage in the extreme heat. Overall, I wasn’t totally shocked given the multiple extreme circumstance of the moment, but having some more cards to play definitely helps. The hand throttle is an especially easy one that seems affordable. I’m just not ready to snorkel yet, so raising the revs seems prudent.

In a strange way, building our trucks to handle the most extreme scenarios is kinda what makes this fun.

@midfat go get yourself a snorkel and Hand throttle....we can tackle both and my VB at the same time...=)

 

[midfat]

@midfat go get yourself a snorkel and Hand throttle....we can tackle both and my VB at the same time...=)

I’m not ready for a snorkel. Not yet. But the hand throttle is a definite. I already have a new OEM throttle cable that needs to be installed, so might as well tackle both at the same time. Sounds like a garage date!

 

[Marco Lau]

I’m not ready for a snorkel. Not yet. But the hand throttle is a definite. I already have a new OEM throttle cable that needs to be installed, so might as well tackle both at the same time. Sounds like a garage date!

Make sure you have the bracket piece that the OEM hand throttle cable connects to under the dash. Ok, I am ready to drop by tranny pan to swap out the Nomad VB. I have everything ready to go. pick a date!!!

 

[jonheld]

Make sure you have the bracket piece that the OEM hand throttle cable connects to under the dash. Ok, I am ready to drop by tranny pan to swap out the Nomad VB. I have everything ready to go. pick a date!!!

The OEM hand throttle mounts to the hole in the dash below the ignition. No bracket required. Just remove the knockout. The accelerator pedal needs the additional "ear" that the cable connects to. The early US spec FJ80s did not have this.
78120-60080 is the "newer" pedal mechanism with the extra ear for the hand throttle cable. About $35 from our friends in Dubai or about $60 from our friends in Richmond. It is a direct replacement.

 

[enox]

The OEM hand throttle mounts to the hole in the dash below the ignition. No bracket required. Just remove the knockout. The accelerator pedal needs the additional "ear" that the cable connects to. The early US spec FJ80s did not have this.
78120-60080 is the "newer" pedal mechanism with the extra ear for the hand throttle cable. About $35 from our friends in Dubai or about $60 from our friends in Richmond. It is a direct replacement.

it makes airing up my tires much quicker too.

 

[midfat]

The OEM hand throttle mounts to the hole in the dash below the ignition. No bracket required. Just remove the knockout. The accelerator pedal needs the additional "ear" that the cable connects to. The early US spec FJ80s did not have this.
78120-60080 is the "newer" pedal mechanism with the extra ear for the hand throttle cable. About $35 from our friends in Dubai or about $60 from our friends in Richmond. It is a direct replacement.

Just to clarify, on a 97, do I also need the "ear" for the back of the pedal assembly , or is that just for early years?

 

[Brentbba]

Given your circumstances and what you had to work with at the time, I think your immediate response and what you did blasting the heaters, etc. was perfect.

 

[Marco Lau]

Just to clarify, on a 97, do I also need the "ear" for the back of the pedal assembly , or is that just for early years?

Jim, look under the dash there the hand throttle is connected to the gas pedal.
See the 3rd pic down from the thread

Hand Throttle on an 80

I ordered in some of the hand throttles that Nathan has for sale in this thread. They are quality units! Ok, so first off I have a FZJ80, so the throttle pedal bracket and mount were already there, which made it very easy to install. I also helped install on a FJ80, and other than welding...

forum.ih8mud.com

you will see the ear that Jonheld is talkin gabout. My 91 did not come with it..

 

[flintknapper]

I’m not ready for a snorkel. Not yet. But the hand throttle is a definite. I already have a new OEM throttle cable that needs to be installed, so might as well tackle both at the same time. Sounds like a garage date!

Love my Hand Throttle. Don't need it all that often....but its a blessing when I do.

 

[flintknapper]

MidFat;
Being a fourth generation Texan, I can tell you... NO ONE gets use to this level of heat.. I even remember "a few years back" (like the late '60's/early '70's) when MOST automobiles did NOT even have Air Conditioning.. Hell, neither did most houses!! (one was damned fortunate if one had a "window unit" in the bedroom.. "Central Heat/Air" was for the "rich folks"!!)
Needless to say, I still live in Texas and we are NOT experiencing the temperatures the west coast and Pacific Northwest are.. BUT y'all ARE experiencing temps like WE do during the normal "hot period" of our summers (between May and October!!)
It is NOT uncommon for us to experience engine temps climbing to "O, Ma Gawd" territory in July & August!! OR during the DFW Metroplex rush-hour traffic (when the office commuters sit and stare at their cellphones while the signal light changes several times!!!)
Generally speaking, our initial "common cure" to climbing engine temps is to simply put the vehicle into neutral then raise the engine RPMs to a "fast idle".. sometimes up to 2500 rpm. If your vehicle is either fairly new and/or your cooling system is in very good condition, this action will bring your engine temps down pretty quick... and the family doesn't have to suffer the "blast furnace" temps "Ol Sol" is inflicting! Bottom Line, Ya Done Okay! Do note, however, the "engine temp" WILL continue to rise even tho you turned-off the engine!! It's called "Heat Soak"!
I might note, I was a mechanic in a Datsun dealership in the late '60's early '70's. The commonly fitted "add-on" air conditioning units (under dash units) came with a "heavy duty" radiator.. I recall it was simply a thicker radiator (an extra row of cooling tubes).. This "allowed" the owner to drive in-traffic with their A/C on and NOT over-heat the engine.. This ALSO necessitated changing the thermostat twice a year.. a 160* for summer and a 180* or 190* for winter.. Given a LOT of "modern" cars, now-a-days, run "normal temps" of 190*+ year round, I imagine there are not many semi-annual t-stat changes anymore!!
A number of years ago, I replaced my '70 Datsun's original radiator with an all aluminum job.. believing it would "help" keep the engine temps down.. Total Waste of (then) $300!! I reinstalled the original radiator, changed T-Stats as I had always done, everything was "back to normal"!!
I'll note that when my FJ40 was my "daily driver" (and used as a "farm truck" from 1986-1990), the 1967 429cid Cadillac Engine fitted with the original 1967 Cadillac Radiator (and the A/C Condenser in front of it!).. I could let the LandCruiser "sit and idle" for "a while" (like when loading a 20" flatbed with 60lb bales of hay) on an average 100+ degree day (in Texas) and the engine temp would never exceed 210*. I put it in "Drive", take-off "normally" and before it's shifted into "top" gear, the engine temp would drop back down below 180*!
Also, in 1980 when the USA Hockey Team beat the Russians in the "The Miracle On Ice", The USA Team Captain, Mike Eruzione [Boston, Mass] is my first cousin... That was the ONLY hockey game I ever watched and Mike never played another game of hockey.

Another Texan here. I run a MotoRad Fail Safe 170°F Tstat in my 80 series for eight months out the year. Also have an Aux Fan for my condenser.

 

[Rwhat]

A hand throttle works wonders in these situations where your road trip comes to a halt due to whatever reason and the road becomes a parking lot or even in slow moving or stop and go traffic. Just stepping the rpm up to double that of idle makes a huge difference.

Just make sure you turn the hand throttle off before putting it into drive. Made that mistake once.

 

[jonheld]

Just to clarify, on a 97, do I also need the "ear" for the back of the pedal assembly , or is that just for early years?

You will have to use your own eyeballs to answer this question. Does your throttle pedal have 2 spots for cables or 1?