<-- (2 Viewers)

[bcsteel]

Thanks.

 

[bikersmurf]

I may be preaching to the choir...

Back when I first put in a Willwood Proportioning valve in my 40 (Disc front & 45 FF rear Drum axle), I dialed it in by experimenting by braking hard on wet, dry, and gravel. I figured it was close. I took it down to Island brake & muffler and had them drive it across their computerized skid pad. It was bang on according to the computer.

Point being:
1) They’re not hard to dial it in without a stinking computer. If you know your rig you’ll know what too much rear feels like... and too little. After moving it back and forth you’ll find a happy point in the middle.

2) Island Brake & Muffler does free computerized brake checks. Sorry I only know of the one in Vic. They’ve done it 2 or 3 times for me over the years as my brakes have evolved... all free of charge (even though I’d happily have paid). I think I did make a contribution to their coffee/pizza fund last time.

 

[seapotato]

I may be preaching to the choir...

Back when I first put in a Willwood Proportioning valve in my 40 (Disc front & 45 FF rear Drum axle), I dialed it in by experimenting by braking hard on wet, dry, and gravel. I figured it was close. I took it down to Island brake & muffler and had them drive it across their computerized skid pad. It was bang on according to the computer.

Point being:
1) They’re not hard to dial it in without a stinking computer. If you know your rig you’ll know what too much rear feels like... and too little. After moving it back and forth you’ll find a happy point in the middle.

2) Island Brake & Muffler does free computerized brake checks. Sorry I only know of the one in Vic. They’ve done it 2 or 3 times for me over the years as my brakes have evolved... all free of charge (even though I’d happily have paid). I think I did make a contribution to their coffee/pizza fund last time.

Yeah I've never been very scientific about it.

"Install valve, turn rears down a bit" just to make sure they don't lock up first. Not that I think 60 drums even could lock up.

I have cranked them up when towing a heavy trailer once or twice.

I'm curious to see how different it feels if I crank the valve all the way closed. Definitely prefer the brake pedal feel now. Pedal is nice and hard.

Also did this yesterday. Finally got around to installing some gauges.

Had the isspro for years, self powered so I still have zero 12v draws in the truck.


Forgot I had that old pressure gauge. Came out of a boat, I had a hard time finding a boost gauge with a lower scale range that wasn't an overpriced autometer piece of crap.

 

[bikersmurf]

Yeah I've never been very scientific about it.

"Install valve, turn rears down a bit" just to make sure they don't lock up first. Not that I think 60 drums even could lock up.

I have cranked them up when towing a heavy trailer once or twice.

I'm curious to see how different it feels if I crank the valve all the way closed. Definitely prefer the brake pedal feel now. Pedal is nice and hard.

Also did this yesterday. Finally got around to installing some gauges.View attachment 2470808

Had the isspro for years, self powered so I still have zero 12v draws in the truck.


Forgot I had that old pressure gauge. Came out of a boat, I had a hard time finding a boost gauge with a lower scale range that wasn't an overpriced autometer piece of crap.

Even with 1100 kg over the rear axle stock 40 drums would lock quickly with front discs and no proportioning valve. That’s how I learned I needed a stock one.

The stock one got shelved when the 45 FF axle went in. 45 drums are way stronger than 40 drums.

I found too little rear brakes and all the brakes feel weak. To much and they lock. Somewhere in between there’s a happy place. In my case, that’s about where a hard brake application will make my 40 lift the rear wheels off the ground and crapy imports park beneath it.

 

[cruiserpilot]

Now I got to go for a drive with you and see how your temps are in comparison.
Wish my gauge had dual readings.

 

[seapotato]

Even with 1100 kg over the rear axle stock 40 drums would lock quickly with front discs and no proportioning valve. That’s how I learned I needed a stock one.

The stock one got shelved when the 45 FF axle went in. 45 drums are way stronger than 40 drums.

I found too little rear brakes and all the brakes feel weak. To much and they lock. Somewhere in between there’s a happy place. In my case, that’s about where a hard brake application will make my 40 lift the rear wheels off the ground and crapy imports park beneath it.

A short wheelbase does a pretty good nose stand when braking... doubt there's more than a couple hundred pounds on the rear end in a hard brake.

Not as bad in a 60 but yeah I don't like drums. What I particularly like about disks is how well they work in reverse. Like backing a heavy trailer down a steep hill.
I've done that twice recently with either a cliff or a lake at the bottom. Having to practically 2 foot the pedal to hold position wasn't cool.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Not as bad in a 60 but yeah I don't like drums. What I particularly like about disks is how well they work in reverse. Like backing a heavy trailer down a steep hill.
I've done that twice recently with either a cliff or a lake at the bottom. Having to practically 2 foot the pedal to hold position wasn't cool.

Interesting; I never really thought about that before.... Makes me appreciate my four wheel disks in a whole new way in fact!

 

[seapotato]

Interesting; I never really thought about that before.... Makes me appreciate my four wheel disks in a whole new way in fact!

That was the single biggest thing I noticed after a rear disk swap on my old 42. Holding position on a steep hill took a fraction of the pedal pressure it did before.

Might do that to the 61 if I get motivated, but there's a lot on the list before that.

 

[slowandsteady BJ]

So how many "pressures" do you achieve. 15 of them? 14? 13? perhaps you max out the scale for "all the pressures"!?

 

[seapotato]

So how many "pressures" do you achieve. 15 of them? 14? 13? perhaps you max out the scale for "all the pressures"!?

So many pressures... almost all of them

It's marginally more info than the green light on the dash that means good, and the red that means bad.

Not sure when the red light is supposed to come on...or if it even works.

My other boost gauge goes to 60, bit silly when the needle barely twitches at one end.

Got it from the driver of a douched up dodge.

He had a Carhartt t-shirt on.

 

[seapotato]

Funny the small things that can drive you nuts.

I've had a rattle ever since this swap that I was pretty sure was nothing, but when you can't find any loose bits of tin and it's coming from the engine bay, you start wondering if its something. Like the notorious 12ht precups...

Only happened at about medium throttle in 3rd and 4th. Couldn't make it happen in the driveway.

I was sure it was a heat shield until I bumped the throttle cable today...then got swmbo to rattle it while I sat in the truck

Would never have thought plastic rattling against aluminum would be loud enough to hear in the cab.

Did a quick road test and no rattle...it comes back I'm just gonna have to download some more Slayer for the stereo. That'll fix it.

 

[crustyBJ60]

Nice work oceanic and tuberous one.

once the plague has passed, I must see this in person. An adventure over the ‘hat is defo overdue

maybe you have motivated me to get off my a$$ and get my power steering installed... running out of excuses, maybe.

cheers
Crusty

 

[seapotato]

Nice work oceanic and tuberous one.

once the plague has passed, I must see this in person. An adventure over the ‘hat is defo overdue

maybe you have motivated me to get off my a$$ and get my power steering installed... running out of excuses, maybe.

cheers
Crusty

Why thankyou son...it's a lot more like the crusty Canadian 60's you're used to now.

Rust holes in the usual places.

I should paint it poo brown just for old times sake.

And yes. We'll have a proper pissup again once we know Bonnie won't nuke us from space.

This rain keeps up you could paddle here.

 

[seapotato]

So, I decided to start looking for my "rattle" in earnest.

It's kindof a high pitched sound, like a piece of tin or a heat shield which is what I thought it was for quite a while.

Only really happens around 2k rpm +- under a bit of load or acceleration. Which makes it pretty frustrating because I can't recreate it in the driveway.

So the worry would be that it's the ring land issue that 12ht's can develop as they get long in the tooth, and the noise is a ring fluttering around in a wide ass groove. Truck "allegedly" has 235k on it, but it could be double that.

So, I figured ****it, I need to dig in , pop out the pistons and have a look. If nothing else, I'm sure the head could use a good clean out. Been a bit of a smokey bitch the last year or so. I'm sure valve seals will help. Turbo is pretty oily too, but hardly has any free play.

If all this is successful, a new turbo might be in the plan. Tempted by the mamba brand. Get ok reviews and aren't crazy money.

Picked up a full Toyota gasket set from partsouq, and did a compression test.

Had to make a 12ht adapter for the tester first but that was kinda fun.

Numbers weren't appalling for a cold engine. There's some discussion that the fsm has a typo,and the Di diesels are supposed to be 395 ish, and the Idi 427. In which case these #'s are pretty good. Who knows. Book also says to do it warm, I didn't.

Be curious to see what #4 looks like.

I figured I'd get it apart,see what it's like and decide whether to buy a full rebuild kit or not.

But...I stumbled across a decent deal on some stock sized alfin pistons in the classifieds, and figured it was worth a shot. If the holes are good enough I can bang these in then I'll be well on the way to a pretty decent refresher.


If they're buggered, I can always sell these for what I paid and go for the next size up. Course that's a helluva lot more involved and I'm not sure if really want to go there.

Shiney...

Hopefully I'll get into it today. Big shop cleanup first, to get it to OR levels

 

[Rigpig]

That's a big box o' bling! Would be interesting to see what the "warm" numbers are on compression.

 

[seapotato]

That's a big box o' bling! Would be interesting to see what the "warm" numbers are on compression.

Haha I pretty much have everything other than the crank and cam bearings from a full rebuild kit now for about 1/3 the money. Provided the holes aren't totally ****ed I'm doing ok I think.

Can see another AUS order in my future. A set of new lifters is actually pretty cheap...


It would be interesting to see the contrast with warm numbers but I don't know if it's worth the effort. Main goal here is to find a worrying rattle...or at least verify it's not something about to fly apart and go boom

Excellent chance I'll do all this and still have the noise.

Might be the only solution is to put this engine in my 4x and sell this piece of s*** as a bj60

 

[bikersmurf]

Looks like fun…

I’ve got a box of Injectors and a HPOP sitting in a box… for $100 and a broken saw I picked up from the middle of the road.

 

[seapotato]

Looks like fun…

I’ve got a box of Injectors and a HPOP sitting in a box… for $100 and a broken saw I picked up from the middle of the road.

I hope it's fun. Haha...none of this is exactly my area of expertise.
Debatable i even have one.

I wish I could just KNOW what the rattle is so I knew what I need to fix.

But, as the man said, " wish in one hand, s*** in the other, see which one fills up first"

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Haha I pretty much have everything other than the crank and cam bearings from a full rebuild kit now for about 1/3 the money. Provided the holes aren't totally f***ed I'm doing ok I think.

Can see another AUS order in my future. A set of new lifters is actually pretty cheap...


It would be interesting to see the contrast with warm numbers but I don't know if it's worth the effort. Main goal here is to find a worrying rattle...or at least verify it's not something about to fly apart and go boom

Excellent chance I'll do all this and still have the noise.

Might be the only solution is to put this engine in my 4x and sell this piece of s*** as a bj60

I've had some weird noises on my little diesel over the years. More than a few had a tinny rattle sound to them. Just a few ideas to throw out there: Make sure to check your crank pulley, as they can start coming apart at the rubber (mine did). Another is, sometimes people don't torque the crank pulley bolt enough, which can allow the crank pulley to damage the key way over time leading to weird noises (I haven't had this issue, but have seen it plague more than a few). Of course there are tensioner and accessory bearings which can make misleading sounds sometimes. I've even had the v-belts themselves make some very strange noises at a certain age even with proper tension. You've probably checked all that...but just some suggestions.

Your compression numbers sound pretty good. As you know, a big indication of diesel compression is how well cold starts go. Easy starts indicate things are probably pretty good. And of course oil usage and blow by. Have you tried that oil cap 'tea pot' test?

Does the 12HT feed the crank case ventilation into the intake (pre-turbo)? That can sometimes cause lower compression numbers on the middle cylinders that take the bulk of that oil mist coming out of the cross-over pipe to intake manifold. Not so much from damage, but I think crud builds up on the back of the valves/seats and they don't seal as well over time.

On the topic of crank case ventilation, is it still hooked up pre turbo (assuming 12ht came with this)? That could be the source of the oil in your turbo (if its on the compressor side). It really does make a big mess. And gets worse if you have above average blow-by.

Pulling your motor apart is probably a good idea in any case. Especially as you've been able to collect the parts already. My bet is your pistons will be a little worn, but not too bad yet. I bet the cylinder bores will be fine to take your new pistons.

Main trick will be getting the new rings to seat right. All in a proper hone and break-in procedure I guess. I've seen so many DIY rebuilds where this seems to fail for people. Maybe they try their own hone job? I think I'd use a machine shop if I were to do it....

Anyhow, will be interesting to see how this goes. Once you get those new slugs in there you can confidently tune up for a bit more power too. Especially if you pop a new more efficient turbo on.

I think Jonathon was toying with doing some of this same work on his 12ht at some point also.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Just a thought, but what year is your 12HT? I heard that there is an early and late 13BT, and the late one (88-89?) had some updates. I have a hazy memory that the pistons were better in the later one. Might be same for your 12HT if it's one of the last ones. Would have to look at part numbers etc. to know. I know by 1989-1990 Toyota had their turbo pistons well sorted out. When I took my old 2LTE short block apart, piston lands were in perfect shape. Found a Toyota SAE tech note that the pistons had ceramic fiber reinforced piston ring lands; sorta neat. 1HDT pistons were good also.