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[seapotato]

Well here's a little LHD swap thing I hadn't thought of...

Now that it's cooling off a bit I've actually needed defrost, and my fan seemed to be pretty anemic considering it sounded like a leaf blower.

Poked around looking for a blockage or a flap that wasn't moving, , and turns out the RHD blower fan spins the other way.

Swapped the wires in the plug and it's ok now.

Possible the vanes on the fan are the wrong way if they bothered making two versions, I might still have the squirrel cage from the blue 60 somewhere, but I don't know if that's worth worrying about.

 

[bcsteel]

Im keen to find out. Mine is the same. Sounds like gas powered leaf blower but minimal air. Feels like a blockage but I’ll try swapping wires. Thx for that

 

[seapotato]

Im keen to find out. Mine is the same. Sounds like gas powered leaf blower but minimal air. Feels like a blockage but I’ll try swapping wires. Thx for that

If you take the outlet hose off you can crane your neck and see the fan turning.

 

[bcsteel]

I can’t wait

 

[seapotato]

Finally had a chance to throw the stereo in, because I wasn't going deaf fast enough.

I ordered a 24v head unit, wasn't hideously expensive. 130 euros or something. (220cdn ish?) and a decent chunk of that was shipping from germany.

More than I usually spend on a deck, but avoiding all the converter bull**** is pretty nice. Hopefully it lasts a while. I guess they put these in all the semis in europe, and porsche guys like the 12v version because it looks like a factory german stereo. You can pick what region you're in. Seems to get pretty good reception.

Looks plain and simple, not like a neon disco like most of them, and does pretty much everything, bluetooth mp3 etc. There's cheaper versions without the bluetooth, but this way I can stream a little french death metal when it's been one of those days at work.

This truck must have had quite the stereo when it was new. There was a factory sub and amp in the back, and then modules and whizjammers hidden all over the place. I replaced those little speakers up in the headliner with some 6x9's .

I really don't like how they look, maybe when I make some new interior panels I'll just move the speakers into those.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Finally had a chance to throw the stereo in, because I wasn't going deaf fast enough.

I ordered a 24v head unit, wasn't hideously expensive. 130 euros or something. (220cdn ish?) and a decent chunk of that was shipping from germany.

More than I usually spend on a deck, but avoiding all the converter bulls*** is pretty nice. Hopefully it lasts a while. I guess they put these in all the semis in europe, and porsche guys like the 12v version because it looks like a factory german stereo. You can pick what region you're in. Seems to get pretty good reception.

Looks plain and simple, not like a neon disco like most of them, and does pretty much everything, bluetooth mp3 etc. There's cheaper versions without the bluetooth, but this way I can stream a little french death metal when it's been one of those days at work.

This truck must have had quite the stereo when it was new. There was a factory sub and amp in the back, and then modules and whizjammers hidden all over the place. I replaced those little speakers up in the headliner with some 6x9's .

I really don't like how they look, maybe when I make some new interior panels I'll just move the speakers into those.

Very nice! Tunes are so nice to have when commuting. Nice find on that 24v head unit. I really like the basic interface design on it. I hate the layout of my disco Kenwood one; it's going to cause an accident for me someday.

My truck had some strange engine suspensions noises that I just couldn't sort out. Finally got a couple new speakers and new head unit a year or so ago, and all the weird truck noises went away. Ignorance is bliss as they say.

 

[seapotato]

Yeah so far I really like it. Even displays the name of the songs playing on the radio??? New fangled s***.

Supposedly does some other bands and frequencies that I haven't quite figured out.

News and such, although that'll just be the world watching the usa in horror as it continues to implode before our eyes, so I'll probably give it a miss.

 

[seapotato]

A little extra wake up in case my coffee wasn't strong enough...

Brakes have been fine since the swap, not a hint of an issue.

This morning was one of those commutes where I hit all the lights so I didn't have to touch the brakes from cedar road light, (where they were fine) all the way to the highway 18 junction...at which point the brake pedal went to the floor and did nothing. After much pumping of the pedal I got a hint of braking, but I still made a guy in a pickup truck pretty unhappy.

Reservoir is still full, no signs of leaks that I could see, but I'll have a better look when it's light out. Rear brakes smell a bit warm, but that seems reasonable if they were the only ones trying to work.

Exact same thing happened to me a few years ago, in the exact same spot. That time, after pumping frantically the pedal came back and the brakes were fine to the point I was wondering if I imagined it. I replaced the MC then, so it's only a couple years old.


So, I figger either the MC has suddenly shat the bed, or maybe a slug of air found it's way out of something? Probably will pull the rear drums and see if anything is going on in there. They looked fine when I freed up the ebrake lever this summer tho.

I've never been thrilled with the brakes in this truck, so I might go for a mc upgrade.

93 fj80 non abs is the one to get isn't it?

Should be a fun drive home tonight.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Wow, that is just downright frightening! Glad there was no accident. Steve Bradford has been working on brake upgrade stuff on his 60. He's discovered a few interesting things with the older proportioning system etc. Other than epic fluid loss or a toast MC, I can't imagine what would cause such a problem though.

 

[seapotato]

Wow, that is just downright frightening! Glad there was no accident. Steve Bradford has been working on brake upgrade stuff on his 60. He's discovered a few interesting things with the older proportioning system etc. Other than epic fluid loss or a toast MC, I can't imagine what would cause such a problem though.

Yeah the weird thing it happened before in exactly the same place. Different MC then too.

This time I couldn't get the pedal to recover tho.

I took the little valve thing under the MC apart before I bled the brakes during the swap, looked clean and shiny. Inside.

And yeah, I think it must be the MC, but what a s***ty way to fail.

At least leak first or show a symptom before trying to kill me.

 

[stevebradford]

Sounds like the master cup on the front circuit failed, the one that’s been doing all the work for these years and that hateful proportioning valve tried to kill you!

Sometimes bleading a working working master can cause cause it to failby pushing the cup further down the cylinder than it usually travels.

Glad everyone make it out ok!

 

[seapotato]

Yeah, my guess too. Full reservoir pretty much narrows it down.

Naturally it's a Sunday and nobody is open, but I'll call around tomorrow morning for the 80 series one.

I might still have the old MC, if the 80 one is a week out or something I'll pop it in and see if it changes anything.

 

[stevebradford]

keep the part number for the 80 master I might need one as well!

Going to put an adjustable valve on the rear circuit and delete that proportioning valve?

 

[seapotato]

keep the part number for the 80 master I might need one as well!

Going to put an adjustable valve on the rear circuit and delete that proportioning valve?

Yeah I'll keep the number see what turns up. I think the one I have is from a 4runner? Don't remember, only that if I found the receipt I doubt it's more than 2 years old.

I think that little valve thing is actually more to stop total fluid loss if one circuit goes out.

Dual reservoirs on the MC seemed like a much simpler solution than that piece of s***, but those seem to be a thing of the past.

I am curious to take this MC apart and see if there's an obvious failure inside it.

 

[seapotato]

That MC39996 part number sounds familiar... but that might be from me reading it on the forum rather than being what I bought.

I notice only the Wagner part specifically mentions a 1" bore, but all the non abs ones are probably the same?

Really shouldn't look at rockauto before calling around locally. Probably gonna be twice the price

1993 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 4.5L L6 Master Cylinder | Shop Now at RockAuto

Brake & Wheel Hub Parts and More for Your 1993 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER at Reliably Low Prices. Fast Online Catalog. DIY-Easy. Your Choice of Quality. Full Manufacturer Warranty.

www.rockauto.com

 

[bikersmurf]

A little extra wake up in case my coffee wasn't strong enough...

Brakes have been fine since the swap, not a hint of an issue.

This morning was one of those commutes where I hit all the lights so I didn't have to touch the brakes from cedar road light, (where they were fine) all the way to the highway 18 junction...at which point the brake pedal went to the floor and did nothing. After much pumping of the pedal I got a hint of braking, but I still made a guy in a pickup truck pretty unhappy.

Reservoir is still full, no signs of leaks that I could see, but I'll have a better look when it's light out. Rear brakes smell a bit warm, but that seems reasonable if they were the only ones trying to work.

Exact same thing happened to me a few years ago, in the exact same spot. That time, after pumping frantically the pedal came back and the brakes were fine to the point I was wondering if I imagined it. I replaced the MC then, so it's only a couple years old.


So, I figger either the MC has suddenly shat the bed, or maybe a slug of air found it's way out of something? Probably will pull the rear drums and see if anything is going on in there. They looked fine when I freed up the ebrake lever this summer tho.

I've never been thrilled with the brakes in this truck, so I might go for a mc upgrade.

93 fj80 non abs is the one to get isn't it?

Should be a fun drive home tonight.

I think my 80 master was from an ‘89 JDM diesel. Morb in North Saanich would be able to tell you for sure.

I’m very happy with the 80 booster & master with a manual, adjustable, willwood proportioning valve on the rear circuit. Four wheel discs also help... although there’s a pesky lack of ebrake issue if you don’t have one on your tcase.

 

[stevebradford]

Stock 60 series master that you can have if anyone is driving up there. It worked when I took it out. I'm without wheels for a bit.

 

[bikersmurf]

Raybestos doesn’t list no brakes. Glad you’re OK.

bet you’d be happier with any/all of the listed signs.

The only time I lost all brakes like that was in a ‘77 F150 that’s rear brakes seals failed after a mechanic did a sh——-ty brake job. Not fun. Fortunately I had to hit the brakes at the top of the driveway... not on the road.

 

[cruiserpilot]

I upgraded mine when something similar happened. I run 80 series booster, 80 series aluminum
master cylinder. My truck will stop as fast as new car now. I also have stock calipers but
pads and shoes are the most expensive/high quality that was available. Mine are
hovering around 45000 km so I’m going to pull the calipers and drums for looksee.
I drove 150 km last week with ebrake engaged, tired late night driving.

 

[bikersmurf]

View attachment 2447778
Stock 60 series master that you can have if anyone is driving up there. It worked when I took it out. I'm without wheels for a bit.

He could always drive down after work... it’s not like there’s a big hill in the way