100 series Vs 80

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johnny4ever

johnny4ever

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I have asked questions over on the 100 series tech forum and figured I would ask the 80 series faithful why they may or may not think that 80's are better than 100s. I see that(80/100 series newbie) the 100 series have cv joints as opposed to solid front axles. Is this true? If so are cv joints a weak link in the design? If I decide to go with a 100, what am I giving up in an 80?
NOTE: Currently my DD is a 1988 FJ62 with 245k. I am looking for a bit more highway friendly vehicle that will spend less time in dry dock.

Later
John D
 
johnny4ever said:
I have asked questions over on the 100 series tech forum and figured I would ask the 80 series faithful why they may or may not think that 80's are better than 100s. I see that(80/100 series newbie) the 100 series have cv joints as opposed to solid front axles. Is this true? If so are cv joints a weak link in the design? If I decide to go with a 100, what am I giving up in an 80?
NOTE: Currently my DD is a 1988 FJ62 with 245k. I am looking for a bit more highway friendly vehicle that will spend less time in dry dock.

Later
John D
Click to expand...


They both have CVs on the front axle. Have to have those anytime you have a drive wheel that can move at the hub (e.g. for steering or because it's an independant suspension). Toyota uses a type of CV called a Birfield joint, which may be somewhat weaker relative to other designs, however, I look at that as an advantage. If something breaks, I'd rather it be the CV, which is relatively easy to get to, than an axle shaft or diff. Well, the shaft is also easy, since you're basically there if you have the Birf out, but if it has snapped, you may not be able to get into the tube to get all the pieces out. Not good.

What are your needs? Lots of info on the forums via the search function. The 80 will make a better wheeler and will be easier to mod (and looks tougher IMHO!), but the 100 will behave much better on road while not giving up too much offroad.
 
Search, otherwise you are :shotts:! This thread always ends in heated debate, feeling get hurt, someone makes a fool of himself, etc, etc, etc...

:D
 
dclee said:
Toyota uses a type of CV called a Birfield joint, which may be somewhat weaker relative to other designs, however, I look at that as an advantage. If something breaks, I'd rather it be the CV, which is relatively easy to get to, than an axle shaft or diff.
Click to expand...

Derek,
When I first read this, it sounded like you are saying the 80's birfs are weaker than the 100's IFS

but I realize you meant that in the world of SFA, the birf maybe somewhat weaker compared to other SFA cv's-- but it's a good design to have it a "weak link" in the chain.

By nature of the design, SFA is more durable and stronger than IFS but it is less comfortable on road b/c of more unsprung weight and tires are not independent of each other. That may sound like a slam but it isn't. Like Derek said, you need to know what you want to be happy.:cheers:
 
A coil sprung 80 will be loads more comfortable than your 60/2 on the road, and a 100 might be a teeny bit better than the 80, though for mixed town/highway driving I prefer the ride/handling of my 80 vs the 100. The 100 is definitely smoother on the highway.
 
Anybody who has to ask this question should buy a 100. Seriously.
 
firetruck41 said:
Search, otherwise you are :shotts:! This thread always ends in heated debate, feeling get hurt, someone makes a fool of himself, etc, etc, etc...

:D
Click to expand...

Dude, the 80 is a chick magnet.
 
FirstToy said:
Derek,
When I first read this, it sounded like you are saying the 80's birfs are weaker than the 100's IFS

but I realize you meant that in the world of SFA, the birf maybe somewhat weaker compared to other SFA cv's-- but it's a good design to have it a "weak link" in the chain.
Click to expand...


James -

Yup, that's correct. However, in addition to that, I also meant to say that both 80 and 100 (and 40/60 for that matter) have CVs in the front axle. Doesn't matter whether it's SFA or IFS. If it gets engine power, and it swivels, it has to have a CV joint.

For johnny4ever, the 80/100 are fulltime 4WD, so the front axle gets power all the time, so it must have CVs. However, so does your 60 since, when you lock the hubs and put it in 4WD, it now also has power going to the front axle, but the wheels still must be able to turn left/right for steering.

I haven't actually checked this out on the 100 (though I don't know how it couldn't be so) but on vehicles where the drive axle is independantly suspended, you actually have four CVs, not two:
1.) left outer (at the left wheel hub)
2.) left inner (at the diff or transmission, depending on drive layout)
3.) right inner (at the diff or transmission, depending on drive layout)
4.) right outer (at the right wheel hub)

Since (one of) the drive axles on the 100 is independantly suspended, it must have four CVs on it, unless Toyota engineers figured out something I haven't heard of (which is entirely possible).

The 80, like the 40 and 60, only has a single pair of CV joints (one joint at each front wheel hub). No need for inner CVs since the axle does not move in relation to the diff (except to rotate in a single plane to drive the wheels).
 
johnny4ever said:
Why Ringo, whatever do you mean?

You don't drive one. What makes you say that?
Click to expand...

If you want an 80, you know why.

On the other hand, you can compare empirical data...'tis not an empirical decision to buy a vehicle that at its newest is 9 years old...

...if you don't have a pit in your stomach about the thought of missing out on owning an 80...buy the 100. That simple.

Nay
 
Nay said:
...if you don't have a pit in your stomach about the thought of missing out on owning an 80...buy the 100. That simple.

Nay
Click to expand...

I gotcha. I love my 62 and it kinda gives me a pit feeling to cheat on it with an 80. I have about decided 100 series is just not my thing. I just wanted to consider all the options and buy the right TLC for my style of usage. Not only is the 80 series more in my price bracket(while leaving cash for mods) it is just DAMN COOL LOOKING.

Thanks for all who submitted thoughts about 80 and 100 series cruisers.
 
A 100 would make a damn nice family car. That being said, we own 2 80's.

-Spike (But if I had a bunch of money...)
 
:shotts: :repost: :shotts: :repost:


.....................search;p
 
reffug said:
:shotts: :repost: :shotts: :repost:


.....................search;p
Click to expand...

Why do I keep garnering the stupid animation of Zot beating an armadillo to death??

I am searching. I am also gathering as much information as possible.
You are free to discontinue reading this thread.

Love and Kisses
Johnny
 
dclee said:
I haven't actually checked this out on the 100 (though I don't know how it couldn't be so) but on vehicles where the drive axle is independantly suspended, you actually have four CVs, not two:
1.) left outer (at the left wheel hub)
2.) left inner (at the diff or transmission, depending on drive layout)
3.) right inner (at the diff or transmission, depending on drive layout)
4.) right outer (at the right wheel hub)

Since (one of) the drive axles on the 100 is independantly suspended, it must have four CVs on it, unless Toyota engineers figured out something I haven't heard of (which is entirely possible).
Click to expand...

Derek,
That is correct. 4 joints, 4 boots. The downside is complexity and fragility (compared to the 80's sfa). The upside is IFS smoothness & handling.

The 80, like the 40 and 60, only has a single pair of CV joints (one joint at each front wheel hub). No need for inner CVs since the axle does not move in relation to the diff (except to rotate in a single plane to drive the wheels).
Click to expand...
I'll add that beyond only moving in a single plane, the 80 has full-floaters which is even more rare. I dont think any modern SUV in the US has FF axles does it?

One thing not mentioned (JMO) is the uncanny interior of the 100. It's got a great driving postition and feels like your favorite, broken in leather jacket.
The 80 has a similar feel but the 100 is def. much more plush.

Anyway, it's really what the buyer wants b/c when you start looking at these 2, they are very different in some crucial ways.

It is also much harder to get a good 80 simply b/c of age.
 
johnny4ever said:
Why do I keep garnering the stupid animation of Zot beating an armadillo to death??

I am searching. I am also gathering as much information as possible.
You are free to discontinue reading this thread.

Love and Kisses
Johnny
Click to expand...

Well here are 5 reasons why that I found in about 2 minutes.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=4442&highlight=100+series

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=12430&highlight=100+series

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=91098&highlight=100+series

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=68195&highlight=100+series

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=34562&highlight=100+series

attachment.php
 
that's great TX
 
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