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- #221
Thanks, of course I planned it that way
100 Series Ute Conversion (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter kittric
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Honestly best build thread of 2020/2021. Great work.
Awesome transformation!!
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- #224
Made a dump run yesterday and got a pretty close final weight of 5400 lbs with a full tank and me inside and a toolbox (another 300lbs). Based on my previous weigh in, it looks like about 250 lbs was shaved off of the total vehicle weight.
I also did some final checks on the approach, departure, and rake. I could have improved the approach angle a bit more with the bumper made a little different, but it was just a small spot on the bumper interfering so no big deal in my mind, but still technically I think this is were you supposed to measure. The rear approach angle was limited by the back frame cross member. Also the front ended up settling a bit after driving it, but I will live with that since it seems to drive good and I don't want to pull the torsion bars out to clock them over since I am pretty much maxed on front lift right now.
So some final stats (with 33" tires):
Vehicle final weight (no cargo/passengers) with full tank : 5,100 lbs (approx)
Approach angle : 44 degrees
Departure angle : 30 degrees
Center cap to fender : 21.25"
I have been averaging 14 mpg with mixed driving so about the same as before the chop.
Total hours spent : 400 ish (probably being productive 2/3 of the time)
Major items left to do: Bring wiring to rear of vehicle were needed, and finish out the interior area behind the seat.
Would I do it again?
Yes, but only if I had a spare 80/100/200 or the back was damaged. If it was my only vehicle I would just make front and rear bumpers to improve angles a bit and make a good roof rack that could hold some longer items when needed. Or just get a good trailer.
And with that, it is time to make another trip!
I also did some final checks on the approach, departure, and rake. I could have improved the approach angle a bit more with the bumper made a little different, but it was just a small spot on the bumper interfering so no big deal in my mind, but still technically I think this is were you supposed to measure. The rear approach angle was limited by the back frame cross member. Also the front ended up settling a bit after driving it, but I will live with that since it seems to drive good and I don't want to pull the torsion bars out to clock them over since I am pretty much maxed on front lift right now.
So some final stats (with 33" tires):
Vehicle final weight (no cargo/passengers) with full tank : 5,100 lbs (approx)
Approach angle : 44 degrees
Departure angle : 30 degrees
Center cap to fender : 21.25"
I have been averaging 14 mpg with mixed driving so about the same as before the chop.
Total hours spent : 400 ish (probably being productive 2/3 of the time)
Major items left to do: Bring wiring to rear of vehicle were needed, and finish out the interior area behind the seat.
Would I do it again?
Yes, but only if I had a spare 80/100/200 or the back was damaged. If it was my only vehicle I would just make front and rear bumpers to improve angles a bit and make a good roof rack that could hold some longer items when needed. Or just get a good trailer.
And with that, it is time to make another trip!
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Nice work on this. Definitely one of the more entertaining builds recently.
Agreed! I'm going to be more careful how I use the word "mod" and "build" from now on. I think "accessorize" is more accurate for a lot of what we do. But don't take offense to that... at least we're not "decorating". (apologies if you also have a Wrangler.)
Fine point, I just updated my signature as my "build" thread is definitely not one compared to this.
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- #229
So I am about a year into having a chopped rig and just thought I would point out a few lessons learned at this point. First of all having a 6'x6' bed has been pretty handy. It works pretty well for hauling around loads under 700 lbs were you don't really notice a difference. But once you start getting heavier the springs really compress as I found out firewood hunting last summer.
The somewhat sloppy body work I did to fill certain areas with JB weld and gluing the roof section on, never cracked or show problems. Despite bouncing the cab around a lot over the summer.
As you can see the roof rail area sort of collects dirt/mud and the back area of the cab by the tire flips a lot of mud and rock against it causing some extra noise in the cab, but overall I can't complain.
The bed and bumper that I coated with hammertone has not held up as well as hoped after a winter of salty roads. If I was to do this again I would coat with raptor liner or some other more durable coating. thus I will have to recoat these at some point in the future!
The somewhat sloppy body work I did to fill certain areas with JB weld and gluing the roof section on, never cracked or show problems. Despite bouncing the cab around a lot over the summer.
As you can see the roof rail area sort of collects dirt/mud and the back area of the cab by the tire flips a lot of mud and rock against it causing some extra noise in the cab, but overall I can't complain.
The bed and bumper that I coated with hammertone has not held up as well as hoped after a winter of salty roads. If I was to do this again I would coat with raptor liner or some other more durable coating. thus I will have to recoat these at some point in the future!
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- Thread starter
- #230
As for using pressure treat lumber for the bed, it has held up well and works great for noise reduction hauling stuff. Last summer I replaced the fuel pump and it was easy enough to get to after removing a few of the boards, so overall I would consider it a win.
Having the samurai windshield as a rear window does cause some "ghost reflections" in the rear view mirror from things in front of you (especially at night) since it is so flat and vertical, but you get used to it pretty fast.
Other than that, it is a great work truck to have and I am still happy with the conversion. Still want to redo the tail lights, some "temporary" wiring and finish out the interior, but that will have to wait as I need to get a house built first this summer. But it should aid me well in hauling material around!
Having the samurai windshield as a rear window does cause some "ghost reflections" in the rear view mirror from things in front of you (especially at night) since it is so flat and vertical, but you get used to it pretty fast.
Other than that, it is a great work truck to have and I am still happy with the conversion. Still want to redo the tail lights, some "temporary" wiring and finish out the interior, but that will have to wait as I need to get a house built first this summer. But it should aid me well in hauling material around!
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Plenty of stuff to rot away vehicles up in this area, just not as much as other. All the main highways are dumping liquid chemicals down .
- Thread starter
- #233
Yep, they do in the mountainous parts when needed, but ITD tries to avoid it if possible.
Gotcha. I didn't see any rusted vehicles when I visited Boise earlier this year but makes sense that it's not really required there.
I must know more....
That was built years ago by Alan Podvin. Had 36” Pirelli Jones Dirt Grips. Very cool 100.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
They were using liquid until last year in the Boise area, but ACHD started also using rock salt for the last two winters in certain conditions. Valley County started using rock salt a few years ago, and there are already vehicles rusting up there.
I'll eventually make my own thread, but I posted a pic of the tundra rear piece here, this is how that tundra rear lined up, still got a lot metal work to do.
What year tundra?
The first gen years with roll down rear window aka double cab
