100-series revival, correction, and build. (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter divemedic
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- Thread starter
- #42
The bar was obviously neglected (as was much of the truck).
I would be pulling this too but I’m guessing it was welded on and assembled on the frame.
I tried pulling it off with my other truck. No dice.
If you ever find yourself in a pickle using a tow hitch with no ball is fairly safe recovery point.
PSA: never use a tow ball as a recovery point!
I would be pulling this too but I’m guessing it was welded on and assembled on the frame.
I tried pulling it off with my other truck. No dice.
If you ever find yourself in a pickle using a tow hitch with no ball is fairly safe recovery point.
PSA: never use a tow ball as a recovery point!
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- Thread starter
- #43
Stripped down the bumper front and back as well as much of the rear frame. A lot of surface rust but no rot. Used a grinding wheel and a dremel with grinding stone implement.
Cut rot out of the pinch welds.
Im trying to get the race off the spindle. It’ll come eventually. Unfortunately my puller won’t fit. Slow moving with old s*** flat-heads I’m grinding back to increase the thickness. I’m expecting it to pop off at any time.
I stopped by fastenel to buy new hardware. Combination of grade 11 and grade 8. Now with matching sizes And all zinc coated.
Cut rot out of the pinch welds.
Im trying to get the race off the spindle. It’ll come eventually. Unfortunately my puller won’t fit. Slow moving with old s*** flat-heads I’m grinding back to increase the thickness. I’m expecting it to pop off at any time.
I stopped by fastenel to buy new hardware. Combination of grade 11 and grade 8. Now with matching sizes And all zinc coated.
- Thread starter
- #44
Repairing this body damage properly. It was obvious when I bought the truck the PO used green spray paint to cover the damage (but I couldn’t tell in photos on line).
In any case a bit of massaging to get the tailgate and tail light lines even (I just used a brass drift and 5lb hammer). Bit of work to get to bare metal. Several thin coats of por15 on there now. I’ll sand that down with steel wool then hit it with a few coats of 2k primer. Blend it to the good paint. I’ve got Automotive touch up base and clear.
It won’t be perfect, but a whole lot better then before.
Because I’m unable to pull the bumper; I bought One of these to get inside the frame rails and tight corners my grinder and dremel couldn’t reach. I’ve also got a cheap paint gun and wand I’ll use to basically spray the whole back end of the truck with por15. First I’ll hit it with a 80grit sand paper sponge with undiluted simple green, dry with compressed air, and metal prep. It’s the best I can do for now.
In any case a bit of massaging to get the tailgate and tail light lines even (I just used a brass drift and 5lb hammer). Bit of work to get to bare metal. Several thin coats of por15 on there now. I’ll sand that down with steel wool then hit it with a few coats of 2k primer. Blend it to the good paint. I’ve got Automotive touch up base and clear.
It won’t be perfect, but a whole lot better then before.
Because I’m unable to pull the bumper; I bought One of these to get inside the frame rails and tight corners my grinder and dremel couldn’t reach. I’ve also got a cheap paint gun and wand I’ll use to basically spray the whole back end of the truck with por15. First I’ll hit it with a 80grit sand paper sponge with undiluted simple green, dry with compressed air, and metal prep. It’s the best I can do for now.
hoser
SILVER Star
Bumper is by Oleg of Irbis Off-road. Probably not around anymore.
- Thread starter
- #47
boom thank you. I found the site, I’ll try reaching out to them!
edit: Oleg seems to be dormant.
I did find this gem of a thread:100lc New Rear Bumper From Irbis Offroad
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- Thread starter
- #48
Rear bar work continues. I finally gave up on the lower bearing inner rig and cut the little s*** out. No significant mating to the spindle hub.
After stripping accessible areas of paint with a grinder and dremel, I applied a rust solvent (didn’t do much). I used an air chisel and wire brush to get the flaky stuff off. I wouldn’t recommend using a wire wheel for this type of cleaning. They seem to heat up and glaze rust.
I scrubbed all areas with a degreaser a few times and hit it with metal prep.
One coat of por15 is down with a roller. Tomorrow I’ll hit the nooks with por15 using an air gun.
After stripping accessible areas of paint with a grinder and dremel, I applied a rust solvent (didn’t do much). I used an air chisel and wire brush to get the flaky stuff off. I wouldn’t recommend using a wire wheel for this type of cleaning. They seem to heat up and glaze rust.
I scrubbed all areas with a degreaser a few times and hit it with metal prep.
One coat of por15 is down with a roller. Tomorrow I’ll hit the nooks with por15 using an air gun.
Are you going to paint over POR? As I remember it looses gloss under sun, not really good for finish.
It's good for underbody/etc.
It's good for underbody/etc.
- Thread starter
- #50
Yup. Same treatment as the front bumper. I’ll hit it with body filler to fill the scaring from the grinder. I also need to rebuild the lock-pin hole for the swing (I’ll use reinforced body filler for that).
after it will get a coat of 2k primer and satin black rattle can with satin clear.
- Thread starter
- #51
Weather has been cooperating and I’m racing the first salt of the season. I quickly laid down some body filler, sanded, primed and painted. It looks good from 10 feet and on pictures. For now it’s fine. I’ll be refinishing it come spring; after my move to California.
Big thank you to @94SRUNNER for helping me get the truck out to Doug (@dfresh285) outside of Columbus. He will be getting needed maintenance done. Quick list being:
- new CVs, bearings, etc...
- SPC UCA
- Brake flush and rotors/pads at all corners
- Starter
a few other tidbits too.
If you need some Cruiser work done I highly recommend him. He runs the Ohio Cruisers FB page and know 60’s, 80’s, and 100’s well.
traditions4x4.com
I’m really looking forward to getting the truck back with a proper alignment and new shoes for winter and several long road trips.
Big thank you to @94SRUNNER for helping me get the truck out to Doug (@dfresh285) outside of Columbus. He will be getting needed maintenance done. Quick list being:
- new CVs, bearings, etc...
- SPC UCA
- Brake flush and rotors/pads at all corners
- Starter
a few other tidbits too.
If you need some Cruiser work done I highly recommend him. He runs the Ohio Cruisers FB page and know 60’s, 80’s, and 100’s well.
(no title)
traditions4x4.com
I’m really looking forward to getting the truck back with a proper alignment and new shoes for winter and several long road trips.
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aging fleet
SILVER Star
Truck looks good @divemedic, and thanks for the tip about traditions. Nice to know there is another Toyota 4x4 shop in the area.
- Thread starter
- #53
Doug is 1-2 weeks from being able to accept work. He’s doing me a solid by taking the truck now before winter sets in. Would highly recommend him for routine stuff.
If your looking for frame-off type work Jim with TLC Performance is the guy to talk to in Ohio.
- Thread starter
- #54
Big thank you to @dfresh285 for all the work. Truck drives and stops like new.
- complete rebuild of the front to include CVs
- brakes, pads, rotors, Slee 5-piece line kit and fluid
- SPC UCAs
New rubber going on Monday
- complete rebuild of the front to include CVs
- brakes, pads, rotors, Slee 5-piece line kit and fluid
- SPC UCAs
New rubber going on Monday
- Thread starter
- #55
Little things here and there. New shoes, KO2 295/75r16. Carryover from previous tires. Debated jumping to 35’s but felt for my use with the truck the cool factor vs hit to economy wasn’t worth it for me.
found oem load bars and a roof box on marketplace. For my area it was a steal.
Im going to index the torsion bars after the swing is on and maybe crank them a bit to level the truck -or- call up Slee and get their stock-height heavy springs for the back.
found oem load bars and a roof box on marketplace. For my area it was a steal.
Im going to index the torsion bars after the swing is on and maybe crank them a bit to level the truck -or- call up Slee and get their stock-height heavy springs for the back.
- Thread starter
- #56
Re-finishing the swing took longer than expected. Part of it was finding all the parts and pieces, the other is being time poor and fitting the work in around the kids' activities. But its done and I'm 97% happy.
Swing was looking rough to begin with. Also a few features I wanted to correct. I started by stripping down to metal. I sculpted the hard angles off the hi-lift base and drilled holes in the corners to help shed water.
10 cool points if you know what this cotter pin is from:
Swing was looking rough to begin with. Also a few features I wanted to correct. I started by stripping down to metal. I sculpted the hard angles off the hi-lift base and drilled holes in the corners to help shed water.
10 cool points if you know what this cotter pin is from:
- Thread starter
- #57
Two coats of Por15, 2 coats of 2K primer, and rattle can satin.
Cleaned up the hardware a bit. Replaced the springs in the locking pins and the nuts with SS bits. Ordered axel bearing from etrailer based on sizing and ordered a rebuild Kit from Slee. Luckily the Slee kit fit perfect but the races weren't needed. Fresh red n' tacky.
Final assembly looks pretty good, but more importantly functions very well.
Cleaned up the hardware a bit. Replaced the springs in the locking pins and the nuts with SS bits. Ordered axel bearing from etrailer based on sizing and ordered a rebuild Kit from Slee. Luckily the Slee kit fit perfect but the races weren't needed. Fresh red n' tacky.
Final assembly looks pretty good, but more importantly functions very well.
- Thread starter
- #59
Depo headlight testing:
forum.ih8mud.com
100 Series LED/halogen testing
I’d like to see this become a solid resource for 100 owners. Please feel free to post your own findings (regardless of series or model). The more details the better. Test truck specs: 1998 100 Series with Depo clears from @ranma21 Current bulbs, H7 Philips Crystalvision. Performance is good...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #60
Heater T’s done. PO said they did them, but opted to replace them along with upper/lower rad hoses.
I bought the whole Heater T kit along with the rad hoses and fuel filter from Wit’s End. 10/10 would recommend Joey’s kit.
I didn’t do the Filter yet. I’m going to need tohit it with pb blaster a few times and need to buy a fuel line wrench and maybe the hard line for the filter (or I’ll just take it to the dealer and make them do it to avoid the hassle of stripping the nut).
*Side note, I lost about 2 gallons of coolant In the job. Put 1 gallon of Toyota red and 3/4 gallon of distilled water. The remaining 1/4 gallon of water was poured into the reserve tank and used to top off the rad while burping the system. I used a Zep industrial sprayer to remove the excess coolant after the system was bled. The straw is the perfect size to drop below “full” in the expansion tank.
I bought the whole Heater T kit along with the rad hoses and fuel filter from Wit’s End. 10/10 would recommend Joey’s kit.
I didn’t do the Filter yet. I’m going to need tohit it with pb blaster a few times and need to buy a fuel line wrench and maybe the hard line for the filter (or I’ll just take it to the dealer and make them do it to avoid the hassle of stripping the nut).
*Side note, I lost about 2 gallons of coolant In the job. Put 1 gallon of Toyota red and 3/4 gallon of distilled water. The remaining 1/4 gallon of water was poured into the reserve tank and used to top off the rad while burping the system. I used a Zep industrial sprayer to remove the excess coolant after the system was bled. The straw is the perfect size to drop below “full” in the expansion tank.
