100 Series Overland build..where to start? (1 Viewer)

[TAckhouse1]

Newbie here, I purchased a 2004 LX 470 (220k) in January and want to pursue a Overland build with it. I've been reading through some posts on the forum and genuinely appreciate the incredible knowledge contained here, though to a point it's a bit overwhelming.

Lee's (ga12r1) build has caught my eye as what I'd like my rig to look like, though I wonder if it's more than I need? I imagine I'll be sticking to gravel roads for a while as I gain confidence in off-roading, and I want to avoid being one of those guys which a truck that is seriously over built but never fully utilized...

My thought is to start with

• A lift, Icon? (unsure on which stage 1-3 would be what I need)
• New wheels and tires
• Dissent front bumper
• Winch? (unsure how much I'd use it initially)
• Rear locker? (or wait till phase 2 of the build?)
• Other stuff I'm missing?

Then there's the other "stuff" I'm not as clear on, it seems like other suspension/under body components get replaced: torsion bars, front and rear upper and lower control arms, panhard bar, diff drops, <Is that all stuff I should be considering as well?

To add, the truck has ACH, and it's working fine so far. I believe there are ways to make it run in it's "high" setting for a "lift", should I consider that? Or just ditch it and get a true lift

I live in Las Vegas, had an initial phone call with this off road shop: Maximum Offroad Performance - Las Vegas, NV
They seem well reviewed though I'm not sure how many 100 Series they've worked on.

Anyone have experience with them? Or have another recommendation?

Any members in the area?

Many thanks in advance.
Nick

 

[JunkCrzr89]

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[JunkCrzr89]

Then there's the other "stuff" I'm not as clear on, it seems like other suspension/under body components get replaced: torsion bars, front and rear upper and lower control arms, panhard bar, diff drops, <Is that all stuff I should be considering as well

This should be at the top of your list, among many other items, not the bottom. Maintenance first, add-ons second.

 

[erse]

I live in Las Vegas, have a built 100. If you want to come look and discuss relative value of add ons let me know. However as others have and will point out maintenance/ baselining will be your first best step. Depending on what you are planning to do with your rig a lot of stuff might be nice to have but may not be necessary.

 

[87warrior]

You will be money ahead to take your 100 out in stock, or near stock, form after you baseline it so you know what needs to be changed to suit your lifestyle.

 

[s2kutah]

Welcome!

My two cents... AHC can get you pretty far. Nice when in camp I can put it in Low.

As stated above, baseline will be a good first step for fluids/consumables.

The process I went through seemed to work well for me...
1. Tires with the stock wheels
2. Sliders... (Slee Step Sliders) have been great
3. RTT

That's what I first did to allow my family to start camping and exploring. After that it's more of what you would find useful based on the adventures you go on.

 

[hickuptruck]

You don't need any of those mods for gravel roads. Save your $15k and wheel it stock, while learning what you need on the go. Better yet, make it a point to learn how the rig works and how to work on it yourself before anything else

 

[katit]

We been doing fine with Honda Accord on gravel roads... Not sure what to build here.

Another vote for just making it "up to date" with all the maintenance. It will go much further than gravel roads. But if your "heater T's" give up - no sliders will help.
I double-quoted "Ts" as it seem to be first advice everyone gives on this forum and it's like 0 banana job anybody can do..

 

[TAckhouse1]

Many thanks for the comments so far. I took it to my local mechanic after I first purchased the truck, his only comment was a on replacing the front brakes, which I'm going to have done next week.

Looking back through the service records:

• Done 4 years ago at 186k miles - Timing belt, water pump, front wheel bearings repacked, front and rear differential, transfer case and transmission drained and filled, power steering flush, brake flush, throttle body clean, spark plugs, fuel filter, power steering rack replaced, -$4600 whew...
• Tires replaced 4 years ago at 188k
• 3 years ago 202k - radiator replaced, rear brakes replaced

As of today it runs and drives smoothly. I can't find any record of the ACH being flushed, sounds like that's something I should have done.

What other items should I baseline / have maintenance checked?

 

[Shortpencils]

Baseline first.

Build it, don’t buy it. A “bought” rig does you no favors if you break down in the boonies and can’t fix it yourself.

Do things in order. Don’t buy armor before tires. Don’t buy Maxtraxes before you can air down and air back up, etc.

 

[Mike NXP]

Maintain it and don't worry about how it looks and how many accessories you can add on. If your just doing mild wheeling stock suspension is great, no need for lifts, big wheels, and all that.
>> Of course if you have a big piggy bank and just want to build her out then nothing wrong with that, but it's not necessary to get the most out of these rigs.


I am running a stock suspension rig that I put through some rough trails up here in NW Montana,

 

[collk22]

Baseline first, then good all terrain tires. I’m a firm believe in having a matching spare too, so make sure you can carry the appropriate spare. After that, wheel it and build to your needs.

 

[MountaineerLC]

I'd guess 75% of rigs on here are overbuilt for the actual use they see. I mean that as no insult to anyone. There are some incredibly nice built trucks on here and we're all free to spend our money as we see fit.

Start with getting the maintenance and critical components up to date. Second, I recommend removing running board and upgrading to a good AT tire. I'm very happy with the form and function of my 285/75r16 BFG tires. No real need to change wheels, IMO. After that choose mods based on the type of travel and off-roading you do. JMO, but suspension mods are only really necessary to accommodate extra weight from armor, winches, RTT, etc.

 

[ga12r1]

A ton of good advice in this thread. It took me nearly 5 years to build my truck and I learned a lot along the way. Spending a ton on mods right from the get go will lead you to most likely have things that you don't need or use. I made a lot of mistakes by jumping on some things to quick and then ending up having to back track and redo. Everyones uses and needs are different.
Maintenance should always come first. Over the years I've replaced radiators, steering rack, bushings, control arms, hoses, and the list goes on and on. I do all of that myself and I know my truck like the back of my hand. I suggest getting a hard copy FSM and digging in. Read this board and do your own PM and maintenance while taking your truck offroad when you can. Learn t\what mods you need and want out in the field. Thats the best way.
These trucks can be easily overbuilt because they are so capable right out of the box. I can honestly say I use mine though. There isn't a single mod I don't use at his point. I tend to send it pretty well when I get the opportunity

 

[JunkCrzr89]

I tend to send it pretty well when I get the opportunity

He does. I’ve seen the videos!

 

[87warrior]

Many thanks for the comments so far. I took it to my local mechanic after I first purchased the truck, his only comment was a on replacing the front brakes, which I'm going to have done next week.

Looking back through the service records:

• Done 4 years ago at 186k miles - Timing belt, water pump, front wheel bearings repacked, front and rear differential, transfer case and transmission drained and filled, power steering flush, brake flush, throttle body clean, spark plugs, fuel filter, power steering rack replaced, -$4600 whew...
• Tires replaced 4 years ago at 188k
• 3 years ago 202k - radiator replaced, rear brakes replaced

As of today it runs and drives smoothly. I can't find any record of the ACH being flushed, sounds like that's something I should have done.

What other items should I baseline / have maintenance checked?

A bit more baseline maintenance should include:
- Replace Heater Hose Tee's (they are cheap and easy)
- Lube 3 drive shaft points
- Repack front wheel bearings (a 30k mile service)
- Inspect all of the suspension and AHC shock bushings for wear
- Do another Drain and Fill on the transmission at the next few oil changes or do a complete fluid exchange

 

[TAckhouse1]

Is there any consensus on doing a drain and fill versus a complete fluid exchange on the transmission?

I've heard in general a full fluid flush on some high mileage transmissions can cause issues.

 

[Roosevelt T]

If you had a budget - I'd say sure, take it slow, do all your maintenance, etc. But judging by the 8-10k in mods you have listed (and that you asked about a shop so I assume you arent doing this work yourself so that dollar amount is a lot more) if I was you I'd just jump in and do what you want and start tackling stuff... both maintenance and mods.

I have those mods and more. I dont regret them. And to be honest I just tackled what I felt like doing at what time I felt like doing it - unless something broke, lol.

Again - if money is an concern OR if you dont know you love this platform (you will lose a lot on all those mods if you sell the truck) I would take it much, much slower.

 

[87warrior]

Is there any consensus on doing a drain and fill versus a complete fluid exchange on the transmission?

I've heard in general a full fluid flush on some high mileage transmissions can cause issues.

Not a power flush, but a full fluid exchange.
2001LC has a great write up in this post:

Scored 00LX w/557,333 Km, Emerald! No start condition. needs a ton of work. No Problem!

Differentials and transfer case gear lube. I found the rear input of front differential weeping a bit. So I add some AT-205. After driving for minimum of 5 hours. I cleaned (de grease) the area, than drove some more. Leak did not return. While work on front diff replacing side seals, I do loose...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[hickuptruck]

For reference, the mods you listed add up to more than you paid for your LX.

Icon lift: $2-3k parts + $1500 or so for install.
Wheels: $1200-$1500
Tires: $1k
Dissent bumper: $1500-1800 + $400 powder coat + $400 installation
Winch: $500 - $800
Rear Locker: $1500 parts + $1500 install