My recently acquired 2000 came with what I am assuming is a master key(starts truck and has door lock controls) and a valet key (just a basic metal key no shell or buttons). I don't like carrying the master key, it is too bulky. I would like to keep the current master inside the truck, to make the immobilizer function, and get remote fob for locking and unlocking the doors, and then use a valet like key for the ignition. Would this setup work? If so where can I buy a door fob? Thanks
100 series master key thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mauser
- Start date
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The valet key functions as a normal key with a few exceptions:
- It will not allow for the reprogramming of new keys to the vehicle
- It will not allow access to the glove box if it is locked.
- On a vehicle with a trunk (so not our cars), it will not open the trunk when locked.
I believe I understand, but what about the door fob? Can I get just a remote for the doors? If so, any info on good models etc? Thanks again.
I know that you can get one, but that would be a question for Mauser. They understand the exact part number of what you are searching for. You can do like the PO of my cruiser did. He just bought a spare key with the fob and put it in a Yoda MD remote for only the key fob. I will share a photo when I get back to where my keys are. The Yoda MD items aren't cheap, but they make the keys feel like a much higher quality item.
Ryan, if you don't mind posting a pic, that we be appreciated. Also, if i have a fob for the doors and valet key to start the truck. Does the fob need to stay with key, or can I start the truck, get out and lock the doors, and just use the door fob to get back in? Or if does the fob need to stay within a certain distance of the truck at all times?
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
I believe the fob is the immobilizer so if you remove it from the truck while the key is in the ignition and running, that it would kill the truck (no more signal). I could be wrong though.
Since you are looking to be able to start your vehicle but keep a independent fob, why not look at a remote start system? This way you can remote start the vehicle without the key in the ignition and can just carry around one of the plain transponder keys (like this, mind you the 4C key works for my truck so you would need to confirm yours) and then you can have the fob that the remote start utilizes to open the doors (I am planning on getting this CompuStar system or this one) thus you could technically just leave the key in the vehicle and use the fob to start and open the vehicle.
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I will test this, but my understanding is that the chip is in the key itself. Otherwise, how would the valet use the key? The valet key doesn't normally have a fob with it.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Right, but the body of the key does have a transponder chip IN the body of the key. The large black part with the Toyota logo has the small transponder in it.
And note, I accidentally hit post reply before I was done putting links and whatnot.
Most of these remote start systems shut off the engine when you depress the brake. You need to depress the brake to put the vehicle in gear though. I don't know if that feature could be changed, but it is a pretty important anti theft feature of the remote starts. I do believe that you are correct that installing the remote start will be the only way to have the vehicle locked and the running at the same time. With the Toyota key fob and valet key I don't believe that you can have the vehicle running, get out of the vehicle, shut the door and then use the fob to lock the doors. I will confirm this when I go to where I keep my LC this evening.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Correct. The anti-theft portion of it requires that you put the key into the ignition and turn to the ON position to bypass the ignition kill function when you press the brake and shift into gear. Don't believe that you will be able to bypass this at all.
From what I am gather, you really are looking for a Keyless, Push Button start for your truck. This would alleviate having to put the key in the ignition as the transponder being within so many meters of the ignition will allow the vehicle to be shifted into drive (like most keyless start vehicles these days). This would also add the remote start capability and allow the vehicle to be on and running while you are not present but still have the doors locked. Again, this is a large difference from a REMOTE start system vs. a Keyless/Push Button start.
Mauser
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #71
The keys with the remotes have 3 parts:
The first part is the key blade. It is used to mechanically lock and unlock and to turn the ignition
The second part is the transponder key tag (chip). This is a code that is recorded in the ecu and will not allow the engine to start if it isnt recognized.
The third part is the remote. All this does is lock/unlock and set the alarm.
To start the engine you need only the key blade and the chip. Once the engine is started the chip can be moved away from the ignition and the engine will still run.
Once the engine is running, if you get out and lock the doors the remote will no longer work to unlock the doors.
The first part is the key blade. It is used to mechanically lock and unlock and to turn the ignition
The second part is the transponder key tag (chip). This is a code that is recorded in the ecu and will not allow the engine to start if it isnt recognized.
The third part is the remote. All this does is lock/unlock and set the alarm.
To start the engine you need only the key blade and the chip. Once the engine is started the chip can be moved away from the ignition and the engine will still run.
Once the engine is running, if you get out and lock the doors the remote will no longer work to unlock the doors.
Hi all, I bought a key on EBAY and had it key cut, then programmed using techstream (I used techstream to program the immoblilizer, then did the described manual hokey pokey sequence to program the fob remote). Key starts the truck and the fob works for locking /unlocking, but the key will not manually unlock any door. WTF? The key appears to be cut correctly and the key will start the car. Am I missing something?
This is the specific info I was hoping for. So
This is the info I was hoping for. So, please tell me if this scenario will work. I could take my good bits out of my master key, and put them in yotamd non key fob, and just use the valet key to start the truck. Thanks much
I believe this should work until you need your master key for programming. Then you’ll need a new blade cut and swap your good bits back in temporarily. If you go this route I would recommend first programming your valet as a master in case you need one in future.
There's no reason to keep your master in the truck. You can leave it at home. As long as you have one master intact then you'll be able to program future keys. In day to day use, the valet functions exactly the same as the master unless your glove box is locked. You can do whatever you want with your master - turn it into a remote fob, leave it at home, hide it in the truck, doesn't matter until you want to program new keys or lock your glove box, then you'll need it intact. Either key can lock and unlock the doors, you don't need the remote except for convenience. The programmed transponder chip inside the key identifies it as master or valet and can be easily reprogrammed as long as you have your master. This chip needs to be within inches of the ignition to start the car. Theoretically I suppose you could cut a blank with no chip to carry with you (very compact) and mount a transponder chip right next to the ignition, but I don't understand why anyone would do that. Especially if you're also going to carry a remote fob (then what's the point of a compact key?). It would be easier to just always leave the key in the ignition. Was this your intention?
If you plan to open up your master to turn it into a remote fob, then make sure you have a second intact master before you do it. I like to have at least two masters because I've lost a key before; luckily, I had another master at home so I could just get a replacement and program it. It sounds like the master key with remote is too bulky for you and you'd prefer to carry a more compact key and also a separate remote fob (Is this less bulky?). If that's the case I see a few options: 1. Get a new remote fob, program it, and carry that with your valet. Would be good to get and program an additional master as well, just for backup, but not a big deal since you can leave your current master at home. 2. Reprogram your valet as a master and get a new remote fob and program it. Carry both. Leave your current master at home. 3. Reprogram your valet as a master, THEN open up your current master and put the good bits in a YotaMD fob. Carry both. Would still be good to get and program an additional master as well, just for backup; it doesn't need to have a remote. My vote is for option 3.
Whatever you choose, know that the remote is only for your convenience locking and unlocking. You don't ever need to have it with you. When I lost my primary master key, I was paranoid about losing my remaining master so I carried only my valet for a few months. Didn't matter to me because I rarely have a need to lock my truck and on the rare occasion I do I can just turn the key in the lock.
Edit: Programming should be easy but varies by model year. Programming the chip on my 2006 was easy, I’m still having trouble with remote. Read on this first.
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I am concerned about the bulk. My 96 lx450 key was so much smaller. I am wondering if a flip type key would be the best for me. Does anyone have any recommendations on a flip key? Thanks again, I have never owned a vehicle that doesn't have just a plain key for everything, so I am a little behind the times.
A
Are you happy with this key? Do you wish you would have purchased something else?Okay so to help out you guys with 06-07 LX470, i can confirm the $17 key on ebay works to unlock/lock doors and also disable the immobilizer once programmed.
This is the ebay auction i bought from
Upgraded Remote Key fob 314MHZ 4D68 Chip for Toyota FJ Cruiser FCCID: HYQ12BBT | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Upgraded Remote Key fob 314MHZ 4D68 Chip for Toyota FJ Cruiser FCCID: HYQ12BBT at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!www.ebay.com
This is the unit i received, it looks a lot better than the OEM key, it has a luxury Audi/Benz feel to it
The blade itself flips out and does not move around, yet, it's solid and i was able to program it myself to disable the immobilizer. Got it cut at Ace Hardware for $25.
Here's what i did to program the immobilizer
Get in the truck and close all doors
Insert your CURRENT MASTER key into ignition but do not turn, just stick it in for a second then pull it out, repeat this 4x
Then insert the CURRENT MASTER key into ignition and leave it there
Next open and close the driver's door 6 times, you need to open it enough to hear the little chime ding ding
After that remove the master key, you should see your security light to the right stay solid red. That means it's ready to accept a new key.
insert your eBay key that you just had cut and just leave it there. The solid red light will now start to blink to program the chip in the new key. After 40-50 seconds the light will stop blinking and then you can remove the key and re insert to start the vehicle. If the blinking light doesn't go away, then you got a busted chip or wrong key.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Ok well that was partially successful...
Took the locksmith a good 20 minutes to program 2 of the 3 keys provided to him. He ended up having to pull out his book and do an update to his programming scanner to be able to get the keys to program the transponder but was not able to get 4 keys total programmed. @Mauser do you happen to know if there is a limit to the number of keys the immobilizer will hold/recognize?
So at this point I have two fobs programmed and cut and one "valet" key programmed and cut. The other "valet" key is cut but not programmed to the transponder. All have been programmed as masters as far as I am aware.
Total was $65. So pretty reasonable. In the future, if I can get my hands on an older laptop that will run the TechStream software for cheap I may pick up the cable and try myself.
Took the locksmith a good 20 minutes to program 2 of the 3 keys provided to him. He ended up having to pull out his book and do an update to his programming scanner to be able to get the keys to program the transponder but was not able to get 4 keys total programmed. @Mauser do you happen to know if there is a limit to the number of keys the immobilizer will hold/recognize?
So at this point I have two fobs programmed and cut and one "valet" key programmed and cut. The other "valet" key is cut but not programmed to the transponder. All have been programmed as masters as far as I am aware.
Total was $65. So pretty reasonable. In the future, if I can get my hands on an older laptop that will run the TechStream software for cheap I may pick up the cable and try myself.
