I looked and on the FOB that works it only reads 60140 on top and 11F10
100 series master key thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Mauser
- Start date
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2001LC
SILVER Star
Did you pull the FOB out of the key shell and look on both sides?
Yes both sides
2001LC
SILVER Star
Not seen that type. What is it aftermarket!
My note indicate 03-05 use FCC ID HYQ1512V. So unless someone with 05 can check their FOB and confirm here. Just buy the 1215V that a seller states it will work. If their statement wrong, return it.
Let see if someone with an 2005 can take a look. Hey @abuck99 can you take a look at your door FOB and see if it's a 1512V or 12BBTY
My note indicate 03-05 use FCC ID HYQ1512V. So unless someone with 05 can check their FOB and confirm here. Just buy the 1215V that a seller states it will work. If their statement wrong, return it.
Let see if someone with an 2005 can take a look. Hey @abuck99 can you take a look at your door FOB and see if it's a 1512V or 12BBTY
Just a note -
I have bought several keys (valet and keys with remote) for my 1998 land cruiser. Could never get past the immobilizer programming with supplied instructions (returned remote keys).
Reviewing Rob's TLCFAQ page I noticed an additional (first) step. It says 1999-2002, but this worked for my 1998
Program a New Key (1999-2002):
Note that on step 8 - the light went out after 10 seconds, then came back on. Key not programmed. Tried (entire process) again, light off in ten seconds again, light came back on in 20 . . . waited another minute . . .light went off. Removed key, pressed brake, Key programmed.
I have bought several keys (valet and keys with remote) for my 1998 land cruiser. Could never get past the immobilizer programming with supplied instructions (returned remote keys).
Reviewing Rob's TLCFAQ page I noticed an additional (first) step. It says 1999-2002, but this worked for my 1998
Program a New Key (1999-2002):
- Simultaneously depress and release brake and accelerator pedals 1 time. (new step)
- Insert your existing master key into the ignition. Do Not Turn!
- Within 15 seconds depress and release accelerator pedal 5 times.
- Within 20 seconds depress and release the brake pedal 6 times and remove key.
- Within 10 seconds insert new key into ignition.
- Within 10 seconds depress and release the accelerator pedal 1 time.
- After 80 seconds new key is registered and security light goes off.
- Remove new key and depress and release brake pedal 1 time.
Note that on step 8 - the light went out after 10 seconds, then came back on. Key not programmed. Tried (entire process) again, light off in ten seconds again, light came back on in 20 . . . waited another minute . . .light went off. Removed key, pressed brake, Key programmed.
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Okay so to help out you guys with 06-07 LX470, i can confirm the $17 key on ebay works to unlock/lock doors and also disable the immobilizer once programmed.
This is the ebay auction i bought from
This is the unit i received, it looks a lot better than the OEM key, it has a luxury Audi/Benz feel to it
The blade itself flips out and does not move around, yet, it's solid and i was able to program it myself to disable the immobilizer. Got it cut at Ace Hardware for $25.
Here's what i did to program the immobilizer
Get in the truck and close all doors
Insert your CURRENT MASTER key into ignition but do not turn, just stick it in for a second then pull it out, repeat this 4x
Then insert the CURRENT MASTER key into ignition and leave it there
Next open and close the driver's door 6 times, you need to open it enough to hear the little chime ding ding
After that remove the master key, you should see your security light to the right stay solid red. That means it's ready to accept a new key.
insert your eBay key that you just had cut and just leave it there. The solid red light will now start to blink to program the chip in the new key. After 40-50 seconds the light will stop blinking and then you can remove the key and re insert to start the vehicle. If the blinking light doesn't go away, then you got a busted chip or wrong key.
This is the ebay auction i bought from
Upgraded Remote Key fob 314MHZ 4D68 Chip for Toyota FJ Cruiser FCCID: HYQ12BBT | eBay
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Upgraded Remote Key fob 314MHZ 4D68 Chip for Toyota FJ Cruiser FCCID: HYQ12BBT at the best online prices at eBay! Free shipping for many products!
www.ebay.com
This is the unit i received, it looks a lot better than the OEM key, it has a luxury Audi/Benz feel to it
The blade itself flips out and does not move around, yet, it's solid and i was able to program it myself to disable the immobilizer. Got it cut at Ace Hardware for $25.
Here's what i did to program the immobilizer
Get in the truck and close all doors
Insert your CURRENT MASTER key into ignition but do not turn, just stick it in for a second then pull it out, repeat this 4x
Then insert the CURRENT MASTER key into ignition and leave it there
Next open and close the driver's door 6 times, you need to open it enough to hear the little chime ding ding
After that remove the master key, you should see your security light to the right stay solid red. That means it's ready to accept a new key.
insert your eBay key that you just had cut and just leave it there. The solid red light will now start to blink to program the chip in the new key. After 40-50 seconds the light will stop blinking and then you can remove the key and re insert to start the vehicle. If the blinking light doesn't go away, then you got a busted chip or wrong key.
Quick question. My 01 LX470, came with 1 master key only, so I ordered 2 new key/transponders from 1010keys. I was able to program the keys to start the car with no issues, however 1 out of the two new keys will open the door locks from the outside. It gets stuck with a little bit more to go. Any suggestions?
My original master has no issues, and the other key from 1010 was a bit sticky going in, but works fine now.
Also, was not able to program my remotes, as during the door lock/unlock cycle my drivers door lock stalls up after a few cycles. Maybe the actuator motor is going bad? Is it possible to program the remote another way? Thanks!
My original master has no issues, and the other key from 1010 was a bit sticky going in, but works fine now.
Also, was not able to program my remotes, as during the door lock/unlock cycle my drivers door lock stalls up after a few cycles. Maybe the actuator motor is going bad? Is it possible to program the remote another way? Thanks!
Holy crap. The video made it so easy. Thanks! Will try the sandpaper when I get home later.
Can someone help me clarify the exact blank master I need to buy? I have a 2007 Land Cruiser. I have a master key and a valet key (both held together with tape!). I have techstream and am confident I can handle the programming, but I am lost on the correct blank to purchase. The transmitter inside the key is marked HYQ12BBT. On Ebay and Amazon, all the ones that say they will fit my 2007 LC are the 1512. The keys marked 12BBT have a trunk lid button rather than the "panic" button. Am I looking for a unicorn? Or am I just missing something? Any help appreciated to purchase the correct blank master.
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gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Ok thought I would comment. @Mauser has been awesome in trying to help me with my 04/98 LC that I recently picked up from another MUD member. Luckily the truck came with a master key and a spare that had been cut but the PO told me he never got around to programming. I have tried all the pedal dance versions out that but cannot get the immobilizer to work for programming. Did the FOB programming for the doors without issue but have had no success with immobilizer programming.
Next step will be to call a locksmith that has access to a techstream to program the spare and then cut another spare (or two) and program them as well. Would suck to get stuck without a proper key. Going through the service records that I have access to it seems like there have been multiple keys cut over the years but who knows where all those are.
The 98 version of the immobilizer seems to be definitely the hardest to program new keys for without access to a techstream.
Next step will be to call a locksmith that has access to a techstream to program the spare and then cut another spare (or two) and program them as well. Would suck to get stuck without a proper key. Going through the service records that I have access to it seems like there have been multiple keys cut over the years but who knows where all those are.
The 98 version of the immobilizer seems to be definitely the hardest to program new keys for without access to a techstream.
Mauser
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #52
A locksmith should be able to do this fairly easy. Should only take around 5 minutes. I always recommend getting a copy of Techstream and a cable to new 100 owners, it is one of the most useful tools for our trucks.
If your locksmith has any problems adding keys let me know. I know I can get you set up with working keys one way or another.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Yeah I have been thinking about grabbing a TechStream cable and software but only problem is that it will require me to purchase a Windows laptop as well. We are an "Apple Ecosystem" family so iPhone's, AppleTV's, and other Apple products galore. Maybe if the wife ends up ditching her old MacBook this year I will steal it from her and throw parallel's on there to run a windows emulator.
This.
I ordered replacements for my 2006 LX and just got them cut. When I do the pedal dance, instead of blinking on off on off for a minute and programming, it blinks short short long indefinitely. Unrecognized chip. I think I need the HYQ12BBT with panic button. Can’t find it. Any leads where to get one?
Mauser
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #55
I will bet money your keys came with Toyota master keytags (4D67 tp30). It seems like for some reason most of the aftermarket keys do. The keytags you need are 4D67 tp29. If you can program the remote part to lock and unlock your door you just need new chips. I have the chips for Lexus.
My original master is marked
PC+PET
FCC ID : HYQ 12BBT
IC : 1551A—12BBT
DENSO
0E010
11K19
The replacement looks identical only all that text is blank except for labeling the battery.
I tried last night to program the new remote with no luck following directions I found here:
Later today I’ll swap the chip from my original remote to the new one and see if I can program the remote that way.
So another option that is available for the 98-02 group is using a machine at some Ace Hardware stores to just clone the valet key. It will just make another valet shipped key. As I understand it, it will cost about $50-60 for them to do. Like the initial valet key used to to create the clone, it will not allow for the programing of another key. You would now have 2 keys.
When I called Locksmith Charlie last week, this was the route that he recommended I go. As opposed to the service that he offers where he can flash the chip on the ECU to make it capable of accepting a new master key. There are also services on Ebay that will reflash a 98-02 ECU if you send it to them. They will then send back 2 new programmed master keys. That costs about $100-150 to do.
When I called Locksmith Charlie last week, this was the route that he recommended I go. As opposed to the service that he offers where he can flash the chip on the ECU to make it capable of accepting a new master key. There are also services on Ebay that will reflash a 98-02 ECU if you send it to them. They will then send back 2 new programmed master keys. That costs about $100-150 to do.
Mauser
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #58
I offer ecu swaps. If I have the ecu I will send a virginized ecu that is ready to accept keys and the old ecu is then sent to me. Then nobody has any downtime waiting for their computer. Takes about a minute to add 3 keys.
I am pretty sure I have the correct ecu for your truck. If you want to do a swap, I will do it for you for the 15 bucks shipping cost for the flat rate box.
That would be awesome and I would really appreciate any help. I can have my vehicle down while I am shipping the ECU, but I need some help to flash the chip. Please feel free to PM me or we can just keep talking here.
Mauser
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #60
I also offer eeproms with the virgin code written to them. These are for the more adventurous folks that are comfortable removing and replacing a surface mounted chip. I send these out free.
I will pm my address to you. We can usually get the chip flashed the same day we receive the ecu and get it sent back the next day.
