That makes sense. Thank you for the complete response!
100 Series IFS Long Travel Thread (1 Viewer)
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That makes sense. Thank you for the complete response!
bjowett
Supporting Vendor
The whole knuckle assembly could probably be put into use, BUT would need to be shortened, and the ABS is a different type.
There's not much info left on this, but it started as a 100 series LC and they re-worked the stock suspension to get 12" of travel, and then put the same upper/lower arms on the back to give the rear the same travel with the same components (minus steering). I believe new spindles were fabricated and Porsche CV's were used. Rod Millen built this for Toyota back in 2000.
Rod Hall is another guy that is taking stock H3's and getting 10-12" of travel out of stock components with coil overs.
It is possible to re-work things and gain travel, but you are limited by the CV's for the most part.
Rod Hall is another guy that is taking stock H3's and getting 10-12" of travel out of stock components with coil overs.
It is possible to re-work things and gain travel, but you are limited by the CV's for the most part.
Hey sorry, I'm pretty slow here.
As a general comment, the sram ratio, lower to upper seems to constrain travel.
Moving the wheel forward should provide more caster, which we all need!! I have Black Hawk Uppers and still run out with 80mm of drop with my Icon shocks. Would love a bit more.
I did get a very confused response from 555. It was probably my fault as I mentioned 100 series and the guy, although curious could not get over the fact that they only made a 35mm ball for the 100, I kept asking "what is the biggest press in ball joint you make" and the answer was the same. the largest we make for a 100 is a 35mm ball???
Anyway, the 40mm ball off the Tundra/200 is good news.
I am curious where the steering is located on the 200 spindle. I have been thinking about lifting the point to straighten the rack a bit, to stop the wear we see all the time in this area.
So next step for me is I need some steel to press the bushes into.
As a general comment, the sram ratio, lower to upper seems to constrain travel.
Moving the wheel forward should provide more caster, which we all need!! I have Black Hawk Uppers and still run out with 80mm of drop with my Icon shocks. Would love a bit more.
I did get a very confused response from 555. It was probably my fault as I mentioned 100 series and the guy, although curious could not get over the fact that they only made a 35mm ball for the 100, I kept asking "what is the biggest press in ball joint you make" and the answer was the same. the largest we make for a 100 is a 35mm ball???
Anyway, the 40mm ball off the Tundra/200 is good news.
I am curious where the steering is located on the 200 spindle. I have been thinking about lifting the point to straighten the rack a bit, to stop the wear we see all the time in this area.
So next step for me is I need some steel to press the bushes into.
- Lower I need 2 off 47mm ID tube x 61mm long, would love some heavy wall, say 5 or 6mm wall. (Sorry for the Metric you 'Merican's)
- Upper I need 4 off 52mm ID x 46MM Long.
- Knowledge of the 200 Lower Balljoint Dimensions.
Bumping this to get more ideas and conversation going. Has anyone seen the "rock crawling long travel" kits that Marlin is working on? Ideally I'd like to keep my 100, but a GX or v8 4th Gen 4R is sounding pretty good instead (joking, for now): Marlin Crawler's New Rock Crawling Long Travel IFS Suspension System (#RCLT)
Bump, bump, bump.... any progress on your long travel project?? Due to this corona virus times I installed Solidworks on my home computer and working from home. I started to design a UCA to accomplish the same things as the existing aftermarket UCAs (ie Trail-Taylor, Nitro, Total Chaos, Slee, etc...). While designing it I was thinking "why not fit a coil over in the front? Replace the torsion bars? etc, etc.... Did searching and reading here for the past week on all the developments. YES, I read all the obstacles to creating this suspension but have some resources to get it done (time is another issue...). I'm not a suspension expert so I am learning (had my '99 LC since '03 and didn't raise the suspension until only 2yrs ago, but now I'm hooked
). I have a buddy that owns a machine shop. Another buddy is a suspension expert and can fabricate, design and weld frames as he has been restoring old classic muscle cars for the past 15yrs. He has designed mild to wild frames and if anyone can make this he can. I would love to see someone complete this project.AS1747, here is a CONCEPT Solidworks model for a UCA This is using a single block of aluminum for the body, spherical bearing for the ball joint in a machined 4140 alloy steel bearing holder. The length of the arm can be made to whatever we need.
Bump, bump, bump.... any progress on your long travel project?? Due to this corona virus times I installed Solidworks on my home computer and working from home. I started to design a UCA to accomplish the same things as the existing aftermarket UCAs (ie Trail-Taylor, Nitro, Total Chaos, Slee, etc...). While designing it I was thinking "why not fit a coil over in the front? Replace the torsion bars? etc, etc.... Did searching and reading here for the past week on all the developments. YES, I read all the obstacles to creating this suspension but have some resources to get it done (time is another issue...). I'm not a suspension expert so I am learning (had my '99 LC since '03 and didn't raise the suspension until only 2yrs ago, but now I'm hooked
AS1747, here is a CONCEPT Solidworks model for a UCA This is using a single block of aluminum for the body, spherical bearing for the ball joint in a machined 4140 alloy steel bearing holder. The length of the arm can be made to whatever we need.
View attachment 2256322
It's all a non starter until you get someone to make extended axles. The arm design is really no big deal.
duggy
SILVER Star
RCV can make any length shaft you need without much drama. Just have to bust out the pocket book.
I have to say when this thread first popped up I was also in the "what's the point" camp. More time with my cruiser and the limitations of the torsion bar system and I'm starting to get it. However, once you sink the money in to convert to a coilover the question is: should you have just bought a 200?!
Why can't we get a portal axle kit? My preliminary research leads me to believe that we could gain 4.5-6 ins all while placing less stress on the drivetrain than any other lift technique. I get that they're expensive, but I'm suprised no one even makes one. Best I can find is Mark's 79 series kit, but we have IFS...
It'd be sick if we could souce Megacruiser portals (in a dream world), or have aftermarket arms/axles that could accept Humvee portals or something similar that we could grab on the used market.
It'd be sick if we could souce Megacruiser portals (in a dream world), or have aftermarket arms/axles that could accept Humvee portals or something similar that we could grab on the used market.
or an 80if I could do it over, I would just build an 80. I love my 80.
Absolutely. Really can't beat a solid axle for flex. I guess it comes down to what people use their vehicles for and if the coilover (long travel or not) could help with ripping down washboard forest service roads then that suits the style of the 100 well. I have rock crawled on some of the trails around me with my truck and a little extra down-travel would be fantastic, but it wouldn't be worth several thousand bucks.
Not it the LC realm....but that's exactly what I'm doing now on a full-size Chevy project. 19" of clearance under the pumpkin by using Unimog 404 portals on a Ford 9" centersection. The entire axle centerline moves UP by 4.5" as a result of the portal boxes which is a massive improvement. It still fits in my garage through a 7' rollup door... but just barely. Once you go portal, it's a lot easier to add CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) as well...
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Not it the LC realm....but that's exactly what I'm doing now on a full-size Chevy project. 19" of clearance under the pumpkin by using Unimog 404 portals on a Ford 9" centersection. The entire axle centerline moves UP by 4.5" as a result of the portal boxes which is a massive improvement. It still fits in my garage through a 7' rollup door... but just barely. Once you go portal, it's a lot easier to add CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) as well...
View attachment 2257767
I have that same texas bucket!
I'm in love.Not it the LC realm....but that's exactly what I'm doing now on a full-size Chevy project. 19" of clearance under the pumpkin by using Unimog 404 portals on a Ford 9" centersection. The entire axle centerline moves UP by 4.5" as a result of the portal boxes which is a massive improvement. It still fits in my garage through a 7' rollup door... but just barely. Once you go portal, it's a lot easier to add CTIS (Central Tire Inflation System) as well...
View attachment 2257767
Thanks. Me too.... it's been a lot of work and literally a dozen years of effort and learning as I go.
Don't need to crap up this thread with non-Toyota content, but you can see more photos of the entire thing if it interests you:
www.mightaswellK5.com
Enjoy.
-G
I really wish that we could convince Marlin Crawler to modify their new RCLT setup for Tacomas and 4Runners to the 100 series platform. Imagine fixing steering rack issues, being able to fit bigger tires and also having a true long travel setup in one solution.
Marlin Crawler's New Rock Crawling Long Travel IFS Suspension System (#RCLT)
Marlin Crawler's New Rock Crawling Long Travel IFS Suspension System (#RCLT)
board.marlincrawler.com
