100 Series General Tech and Classifieds

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I've been thinking about it too DNP. Mine are soft but no booster leaks. Going to press on for now but have thought about what it would take to rebuild a OEM unit vs replace new.

Dumb question, would the emergency brake still work with no booster, especially at low speed with engine braking? Always good to have a back up plan if they do go out.

I agree with wngrog too a bit as well. Whenever you google land cruiser problems it points you here. Kind of like ants to a picnic. Although there are several guys in the club with high mileage 100s that this could affect.
 
The problem we have been running into is where the pump mounts up to the module it will develop rust. This will not allow you to separately replace the pump from the module.

We have been able to replace just the pump on one of the last 4 Rob or Shane have done.
 
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wct49 said:
The problem we have been running into is where the pump mounts up to the module it will develop rust. This will not allow you to separately replace the pump from the module.

We have been able to replace just the pump on one of the last 4 Rob or Shane have done.
Click to expand...
Chris, is the rust visible or is it only found when the unit is opened up?
 
corrosion happens where the pump wire connects to the module. There is a rubber boot covering the connection but all that seems the boot does is hold in moisture on the connection. I'll snap some pics next week. You can somewhat see it but you'll need to use a mirror.
 
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Pic of connection

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Rob, in the original thread, the guy who was "servicing" his module showed what that connection looked like before and after it was cleaned up. (Nolen, take a look at the photos in this thread, as it may help in identifying where all of this is located ABS Modulator - (Master cylinder, Pump/Motor, Accumulator, Resivoir, Solenoid module)) His looked toasted before the cleanup, but he worked on the connection housing and replaced the two screws, and it looked workable afterwards. Yours looks pretty bad, but it's not much worse than his.......any chance of carefully drilling the screws, cleaning everything up, and replacing the screws?
 
In follow up to my last post, I contacted Eurton Electric in California to find out the details about their electric motor repairs.

I find amazement in the way different people formulate business practices. Instead of having rebuilt units available, in return for receiving to-be-rebuilt units, this company requires you to send your old unit in, they rebuild it, and then they send it back - a 2+ week turn around time. That requires a 2 week down time for a vehicle, rather than having a very inexpensive part on the shelf waiting to be shipped-out-upon-receipt (or even charging a core charge)
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Oh well, still in the investigating stage anyway. I'm betting Rob will find a solution.
 
Meh....not sure I may end up selling the RX350 first/instead if the 100 doesn't sell. I'd like to get into a 200 but either way we have to down size from 4 vehicles. It's hard to price the 100 as prices are all over the place right now and it's subjective bc some guys prefer to build their own and some want to buy one like mine and continue to build it.....
 
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