Bodean
Hot Damn
So you're not coming to the Crawl now?
100 Series General Tech and Classifieds
- Thread starter wngrog
- Start date
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I am. It wont sell before then. If it did...... ill just ride with you.
Yup
Bodean
Hot Damn
Got a guy that might buy it from ya. He'll be at the Crawl so put a for sale sign in it! I'll get y'all together.
I've had a few PMs and Nolan has a local 80 owner who I spoke with last night. He is looking this week/end sometime.
drove it to work today. It drives really nice, but it confirmed I'd love a more stock height with better gearing (200) so I can DD one nicer cruiser instead of having 2 older cars, plus a project ford, and the wife's van in the drive way. we shall see, I appreciate the help advertising. I thought about putting a 4sale sign in window, but it invites to many tire kickers ala craigslist so we will stick to mud and word of mouth for now.
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
Unfortunately, the problem is largely with the latest MUD thread software. With the old setup, EVERY time a new post went in a thread, I got an email notice. Now, with the new setup, I may miss several days before it randomly notifies me a new post has come along. I don't know if any of you have experienced the same thing, but unless I go to the CLC page every day, I miss activity.
Anyway, all that being said, E the problem you're likely having is with an aftermarket transmitter. A few of the non-OEM transmitters I've gotten (whether in a key I ordered or separately) have acted the same way. (Just as a test, look at the transmitter that's giving you problems. On the lock button, is the raised tit [, I said tit] in the center of the button, like the photo below, or is it slightly toward the top or bottom of the button? The aftermarket ones are usually offset.....just an observation of mine)
View attachment 1325740
SONS A B!
First off to your first point about the new mud... YES! This forum basically stopped notifying me all together now fore days!
F it, I gave up on it when he switched. Sorry, not sorry.
Secondly: Thanks for this info! But the fob giving me fits has the teet in the middle of the LOCK button, and that button has NEVER worked for me. I'm thinking of buying an OEM fob anyway and seeing if that works. I CAN'T manually unlock my doors or the dang alarm goes off, every time. So mines not a motor issue, it's a "I can't unlock the [expletive] [expletive] [expletive] doors!"
I look dumb as hell EVEYRTIME I get to my truck and sit there literally 30 seconds standing there as if I'm looking around about to break in to my own dang truck.
Tired of it.
Damn I hate to hear that dude your position is the exact opposite of mine!
So heres an update to my key situation, I purchased all 5 lock motors, installed all of em.... and my key programmed first try.
So now I can unlock and lock my truck with the key fob, and now my locks work 100%
The only problem is that when I lock my truck and open it the alarm DOES NOT GO OFF!
I dont know if its disconnected or what, I tried looking under my dash and didnt see anything but two mysterious unplugged wires. I can not find a plug for them anywhere. Either my alarm is disabled, or if the alarm is a little box under there, its not there... anyone got any info? or can anyone look on their rigs and see where these two wires connect to? I swear this truck is the embodiment of murphys law
Heres the wires:
So heres an update to my key situation, I purchased all 5 lock motors, installed all of em.... and my key programmed first try.
So now I can unlock and lock my truck with the key fob, and now my locks work 100%
The only problem is that when I lock my truck and open it the alarm DOES NOT GO OFF!
I dont know if its disconnected or what, I tried looking under my dash and didnt see anything but two mysterious unplugged wires. I can not find a plug for them anywhere. Either my alarm is disabled, or if the alarm is a little box under there, its not there... anyone got any info? or can anyone look on their rigs and see where these two wires connect to? I swear this truck is the embodiment of murphys law
Heres the wires:
@pmccraney
Looking nice on the Friday commute
Looking nice on the Friday commute
Just put 2 cases of Monster in there so Nolen will be happy.
Haha. I got creeped.
I didnt have my trasharoo on the back tire either. I clearly left the house totally unprepared for my desk job at the law firm.
I didnt have my trasharoo on the back tire either. I clearly left the house totally unprepared for my desk job at the law firm.
No more guillotine. Finally replaced the hood and hatch shocks. You're welcome @offr0adlim0
While I was putting the skid plate back on I decided to check out the CVs after the Ironman TB install (no diff drop). This is a pic of the DS. It looks like old grease but also maybe some new grey grease had leaked. There was less of both on the PS. Driven less than 100 miles since lift. Is there anything I should do to stop the leak before making the long drive to the Crawl? I was thinking about getting some hose clamps from Lowes but don't want it to affect the balance or squeeze it and make the leak worse. Should I just ignore it?
Forgot the pic the first time....
Forgot the pic the first time....
Last edited:
They are gonna leak. Rode at a particullar angle the trucks while life and that angle was just changed.
First mash out all the old grease best you can, then get a turkey injector and squirt a bunch of CV grease in there. Then like Nolen said reband it.
Look up pfran42 clamp kits on the forum. Right size w rolled edges so they won't cut boots. Cheap.
When you eventually install new CVs, since they were installed at the new lifted angle they will be fine. Diff drop with new ones for sure.
First mash out all the old grease best you can, then get a turkey injector and squirt a bunch of CV grease in there. Then like Nolen said reband it.
Look up pfran42 clamp kits on the forum. Right size w rolled edges so they won't cut boots. Cheap.
When you eventually install new CVs, since they were installed at the new lifted angle they will be fine. Diff drop with new ones for sure.
Should I wait until after the crawl and install the right clamps with more grease as described or go ahead and just put on ones sources locally before to prevent more leaks with all of the driving to Hot Springs and back?
Land Speeder
InstaH8R
I'm not sure what Ironman TB lift is, but you will likely need the dif drop. Minesez rode like shizcrap until I did. Still kinda does. I even want the front to go higher. Can't stand a stinkbug look. Ohs well. I know it's not a popular opinion, but I do not like my Ironman lift. The stock shocks that Greg had on it had a longer travel than the 2" lift shocks out of the box. Weird and even confirmed the correct P/N's with Chris before we threw them on because of it.
Your pic shows Bilstein though, not Ironman...?
Mine is a mixed set. Billstein shocks, OME 866s and Ironman TB. I've still got some rake and probably 2-2.5 in lift around. I've been happy with the ride so far.