100 Series General Tech and Classifieds

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This forum is a good place to post pictures but if you want someone to actually answer a tech question it's best to go to the actual 100 series forum but make damn sure your answer is not in the FAQ sticky.

As E discovered a question here will get 100 views and no answer.
 
Yeah true that. The motors should be here Monday. I guess we will see how they work. They are the same motors for the Lexus IS300. When I had mine I put 300k miles on it and never had a lock issue
 
wngrog said:
I'm a high mileage 48 year old and my D has never failed me but it could happen.
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i-workout.webp
 
wngrog said:
This forum is a good place to post pictures but if you want someone to actually answer a tech question it's best to go to the actual 100 series forum but make damn sure your answer is not in the FAQ sticky.

As E discovered a question here will get 100 views and no answer.
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Unfortunately, the problem is largely with the latest MUD thread software. With the old setup, EVERY time a new post went in a thread, I got an email notice. Now, with the new setup, I may miss several days before it randomly notifies me a new post has come along. I don't know if any of you have experienced the same thing, but unless I go to the CLC page every day, I miss activity.

Anyway, all that being said, E the problem you're likely having is with an aftermarket transmitter. A few of the non-OEM transmitters I've gotten (whether in a key I ordered or separately) have acted the same way. (Just as a test, look at the transmitter that's giving you problems. On the lock button, is the raised tit [:D, I said tit] in the center of the button, like the photo below, or is it slightly toward the top or bottom of the button? The aftermarket ones are usually offset.....just an observation of mine)

key.webp


dbbowen, you are correct. The motors - like the ones below - get weak. It's due to the heat. Once it gets cold, you won't likely have this problem until it gets hot again. For instance, try them at night. It usually takes many more cycles before they get weak and won't work. Also, I have bought several trucks that had no more than the valet key. I ordered replacement master keys from the interwebs and had them programmed. Never had a problem with the vehicle recognizing the key and vice versa. Sound like you might want to search for a locksmith with more sophisticated programming devices or one with more knowledge of the procedure - or both. @offr0adlim0 and I have used the same locksmith for this very thing several times, and he's gotten it right every time. I could be wrong, but I doubt your '02 system is any different than his '99 or my '00 or '03..........just my thoughts on your situation.

motors.webp
 
Man, I'll post a picture of my key when I get home. The locksmith I used was recommended to me by the Toyota dealership. I otherwise wouldn't have known who to contact in Memphis. So you're saying if the key won't recognize it might be the key. I've tried the manual process and I figured it's because my motors in the door locks were bad.
 
dbbowen said:
So you're saying if the key won't recognize it might be the key. I've tried the manual process and I figured it's because my motors in the door locks were bad.
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Unfortunately for y'all, other than the suggestions about the motors themselves, the information I'm passing along is largely anecdotal. I'm just passing along observations about what has happened to me / what has worked for me. Granted, a lot of the information on MUD is of similar provenance, but I wish I could say that what I'm suggesting is based on an electrical diagram or first-hand knowledge of the systems themselves or something substantive.

In E's situation, the only trucks that I've had to press the open or lock multiple times to get them to work were when I had ordered aftermarket keys (e.g., eBay keys with transmitters) They work, but you sometimes just have to keep pushing the buttons to get the vehicle to respond. Personally, I've never had that happen with an OEM transmitter (I'm pretty sure the key shell/shaft have no involvement in that process, just the transmitter.....Rob?)

Regarding the programming of a new key, (a) Like you, I've never had Toyota's manual programming system work. I've tried and tried, but I've never had it succeed, and (b) I've never had a locksmith-programmed new key fail to work as it should. Unfortunately, that's the extent of my knowledge on that, but that's why I thought it might be the locksmith himself.........for MANY years, I had always read that if you ever lost both of your factory transmitter keys, you were screwed and had to buy a new ignition computer that came with replacement keys. Obviously, I found out that was not true (by accident. I took in a valet key and a replacement transmitter key and asked this locksmith if he could make the new one work. He said yes, and he did.) Since then, I'll bet I've had a half dozen Toyotas that were purchased without a transmitter key, and all were later converted.......not sure why yours didn't work, but I might try another reputable locksmith. (By the way, I don't believe there is any connection between any of this and the door actuator motors. But I could be wrong:D)
 
dnp said:
Unfortunately, the problem is largely with the latest MUD thread software. With the old setup, EVERY time a new post went in a thread, I got an email notice. Now, with the new setup, I may miss several days before it randomly notifies me a new post has come along. I don't know if any of you have experienced the same thing, but unless I go to the CLC page every day, I miss activity.



View attachment 1325741
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Yeah, I sent you the info on how to fix that.
 
Dnp Im going to install the lock motors sometime this upcoming week. If I'm still outta luck mind if I contact you about that locksmith?
 
A concerning 100 issue that's been on my mind for a while.

It seems as though the brake booster / ABS hydraulic pump on several models of Toyota / Lexus (Land Cruiser / LX470, GX470, Tundra, etc.) may be prone to failure after a certain amount of time. As in total failure. As in all of a sudden, you have NO brakes. Read some accounts here: Poll on total brake failure in 100 series and here: forum.ih8mud.com/threads/brake-failure-abs-brake-dash-light-alarm.798169/#post-9101866

Now, though it may be hard for some of y'all to believe, the OEM replacement parts (47070-60010) are actually stupid expensive (just looking at Toyota prices - haven't communicated with @beno yet) With that in mind, it looks like there are 3 options to fix this issue, which I'm considering doing as a preventative maintenance effort: 1. Replace with a new OEM unit, 2. Replace with a used OEM unit or 3. Replace the pump motor. Personally, I don't like the idea of introducing another unknown into the equation, so only numbers 1 or 3 are viable options in my mind.

I've talked with the cruiser whisperer about this, and he says they've got a couple of cores at 49 tire that he's been thinking about dissecting to see what's going on with the innards of these units. That investigation, coupled with this guy's information COULD yield a solution ABS Modulator - (Master cylinder, Pump/Motor, Accumulator, Resivoir, Solenoid module)

In the meantime, I wanted to point out an issue of which some of you might be unaware.......it sort of came to mind to me again as I was thinking about some of those long, steep hills in Hot Springs
 
Yeah PMC found this out the hard way. Thank God he noticed it happening. He had brake fluid draining though.

Rob said something about trucks that have been in corrosive enviroments too.

Also he said the cowl drain drips right on a critical part. Can't remember what it was

So.

Rust free? Garaged?

Dunno. Maybe mine will be OK.

Remember, like the 2000 transmission issue. It always seems bigger because Google brings everyone with the problem to Mud.
 
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