Great work, I don't think you could buy a set that look better!
100 Series Drawer Build (pics)
- Thread starter ffpmsam
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Love to see commercial quality plans with part out and assembly sheets if you ever go pro. I'd pay $100 for the electronics. Only have AutoCad 2010 though. (Actually 2013 for Mac when it was introduced for $500 but it imports 2010-2013)
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I broke a Vector lock a couple of weeks ago. Lasted about 7 years. The rotating square piece on the inside of the mechanism sheared.
great looking drawers! I'm working on a design for my own at the moment, and had a quick question:
I plan on making my drawers and box out of 1/2" cabinet grade plywood. maybe 3/4" for the drawer itself, but not sure.
my question is, how long of screws did you use to attach the slides/rails to the side of the box? If I use 1/2" plywood I won't have a whole lot of depth to work with. I'm a little concerned about the weight on them.
I plan on making my drawers and box out of 1/2" cabinet grade plywood. maybe 3/4" for the drawer itself, but not sure.
my question is, how long of screws did you use to attach the slides/rails to the side of the box? If I use 1/2" plywood I won't have a whole lot of depth to work with. I'm a little concerned about the weight on them.
I’m not the guy you were asking, but I did use 1/2“ plywood for my drawers and cabinets. I glued (Gorilla Glue) and screwed all my joints. I used 1 1/2” cabinet screws, and had no difficulty or weakness anywhere. Of course, ymmv.
Hm ok that was my plan as well
However I'm still confused about the drawer slides. Will 1/2" of plywood be enough for the screws to grab onto? I feel like it would have to be such a short screw
I built my box out of mostly 5/8" plywood. I ended up making the drawers themselves out of 1/2" with 3/4" cabinet grade maple as a face. ( I had enough on hand from a previous project.) I used Kreg screws and liquid nail on every joint. For the slides I used 1/4" UHMWPE from McMaster-Carr. It saved a bunch of space, weight and expense. I have found the UHMWPE to work very well, even when down.
If my googling is correct the UHMWPE is a plastic slide that the drawers run on instead of metal rails?
That's definitely an option but if I do go the route of metal ball bearing rails, how do I attach them to 1/2" plywood?
1/2" is plenty of meat for the slides to grab onto. Use a bigger screw like a #12-1/2 or 5/8"... whatever you can get away with without busting through to the interior of the drawer.
You're putting the drawer hardware in shear, not tension... it'll hold no problem. I built my drawers with the 500# accuride slides, 1/2" plywood and #12 wood screws and have had zero issues in over a year.
I too used uhmw, screwed in place for my slides. I fill my drawer up and have 0 difficulty opening them. Cheap, reliable, and effective.
Awesome, some of the nicest home builds I've seen, great work!
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Did you put the UHMW on the bottom as skids?
On the bottom of the carcass, as slides. Yes. And scewd down into the baseplate of the carcass. They’re the white strips you can see in the photo.
Eyedaho
SILVER Star
Thanks! I know there are also profile UHMW strips that fit in the extruded aluminum (80/20 style) channels, but it seems really expensive. This seems like a much cheaper option.
The UHMW also comes in a thick self adhesive tape version, which is what I used on my drawers. Cleaned the drawers and the box off well with an air compressor and applied it in matching rows across the bottoms as well as on the bottom sides of the drawer.
They slide very smoothly. An advantage that the screwed in (thicker) UHMW strips shown in other posts above have over the tape version is that if debris (dust/sand/etc) gets onto the material it has an area to fall off of and get out of the track. The tape doesn't clear dust and dirt quite as well as (I assume) the strips do, so I pull my drawers out and wipe the tape down every 6 months. Not an inconvenience for me as I'm usually swapping my summer stuff for winter stuff at that time.
They slide very smoothly. An advantage that the screwed in (thicker) UHMW strips shown in other posts above have over the tape version is that if debris (dust/sand/etc) gets onto the material it has an area to fall off of and get out of the track. The tape doesn't clear dust and dirt quite as well as (I assume) the strips do, so I pull my drawers out and wipe the tape down every 6 months. Not an inconvenience for me as I'm usually swapping my summer stuff for winter stuff at that time.
I think I paid around $60 for a 18” x 48” piece on eBay. I still have half left over, and have built 2 sets of drawers (one set for me, one for my son’s 4runner), and have enough left for 2 more sets. Tivar UHMW PE White Sheet .250" (1/4") Thick x 12" x 48" | eBay This stuff would work. Cut it with any woodworking blade. I used my table saw.
Well, I finally got around to building mine out of 1/2" and 3/4" plywood and I used drawer slides. Originally I had one locking slide per drawer but it was not enough to keep it from wobbling. I still have to put on hardware to keep the two larger drawers from sliding out. It's heavy but it works really well. It's a huge pain if you say, have something leak underneath it and have to take it out. I used Raptor liner over the whole thing which worked well, it just takes a while to set and get the fumes off of it. I bolted a 3000W inverter on the left side and you see the Amazon switch panel on the right runs a water pump off of a 5 gallon jug which is strapped behind the refrigerator and not shown. There is a hose that runs from the pump to a collapsible sink cut out underneath the stove. I also bolted an air pump on the right side and the there are switches for overhead lights and of course USB and cigarette lighter chargers.
