2001LC
SILVER Star
Looks loose, as if it needs to be push in. You should have a tool clip in the lid, which is use for removal & installing all fuses.
100 series cranks but won't turn over / start (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter blatant
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Yes, it's loose but the bracket which holds fuse in place and is broken, the fuse of efi looks custom made inorder to fit inside the broken bracket and this is the reason my LC dies while driving, the fuse doesn't fit properly. I don't know what to do about it, can someone please tell me a perm. Solution for this.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Looks like a pair of pliers was used in the dark to pull the fuse. That fuse doesn't even look like right one, it should have 20 or 25 printed on it. If it was in all the way while this problem happen, it most likely has a short in the connection inside the fuse box. Replace with new or used fuse box is your best bet. No telling what else someone has broken in it.
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First of all thanks for your inputs, I really need to open the whole fuse box in order to see, what else is broken. You guys are right best is to buy a new or used fuse box which will be much easier, anyways I know where to look one at junk yards.
I had the no start issue. When I found this thread I replaced EFI relay (100.00 +).
This resolved the no start and corrected the parasitic draw my TLC had on two circuits for the last 1.5 years.
Thanks Ih8mud!!!
This resolved the no start and corrected the parasitic draw my TLC had on two circuits for the last 1.5 years.
Thanks Ih8mud!!!
No I am still running with the jumper wire in place and have had no problems
My 2002 LC is having the same issue, we just came out of our fav restaurant with it a warm 15F outside and it would crank but not start. 30 min later, my wife suggests we look at the forum and I find this thread. I walk over to the AutoZone store about 200 yards away and by a 25 watt fuse and put it in and it starts instantly. Thanks for posting this thread, as I had the LC in the shop for several days and Toyota could not get it to duplicate the issue.
- Thread starter
- #51
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bump for update ----> USED @medtro's kit linked below May 2016.
---DEC 2016 10k later and several remote outtings, no issues.
I finally had the no start, become an issue after 30k since the first post.
I fixed it with this:
EFI Relay Bypass Kit (Immobilizer Fix) for UZJ100/LX470
My immobilizer fix
Trouble free since. If you're seeing this issue more often, you may want to check this out.
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bump for update ----> USED @medtro's kit linked below May 2016.
---DEC 2016 10k later and several remote outtings, no issues.
I finally had the no start, become an issue after 30k since the first post.
I fixed it with this:
EFI Relay Bypass Kit (Immobilizer Fix) for UZJ100/LX470
My immobilizer fix
Trouble free since. If you're seeing this issue more often, you may want to check this out.
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So now it's my turn - yippee! A couple of weeks ago i had an issue with my '00 TLC that seemed to be the alternator, it turned out just to be the battery. Last night I swapped out the positive battery terminal with an OEM part and it started up fine right after and again this morning. Had the rig detailed at my office (courtesy of a Xmas present from my MIL) so I went out to meet the guy and move the truck to a vacant area of the lot- starts again no problem. When he was done a few hours later I went out to inspect and settle up and the rig won't start - cranks with plenty of power but will never fire. Reviewed another thread while still at the office - pulled the EFI fuse and relay and reinstalled to no avail. Tried a spare 30A fuse and it didn't work either. Of course that doesn't mean the connection is solid or that the relay works.
How can relay be tested with a multimeter?
I'll try undoing the gas cap in the morning before I mess with getting it towed. Shop says fuel and spark are the things they'd start with trying to diagnose it.
I recall having an issue when starter was replaced within the last year or so with tech cleaning and greasing something under the fuse box. Wondering if something in the box is the culprit?
Any ideas on things I can eliminate myself in trying to diagnose this while I'm not paying for someone else's time?
How can relay be tested with a multimeter?
I'll try undoing the gas cap in the morning before I mess with getting it towed. Shop says fuel and spark are the things they'd start with trying to diagnose it.
I recall having an issue when starter was replaced within the last year or so with tech cleaning and greasing something under the fuse box. Wondering if something in the box is the culprit?
Any ideas on things I can eliminate myself in trying to diagnose this while I'm not paying for someone else's time?
Does your immobiler light stay on with the key in the ignition?
Nope - it goes off as soon as keynis inserted so it doesn't sound like the immobilized to me. Tried my spare key this morning and same result. I don't have a valet key.
Tried pulling the gas cap to release pressure and it didn't help anything. Went ahead and replaced the EFI 20a fuse since I had a spare and that didn't help either. Wiggled the EFI relay - still won't fire.
Wondering if the ignition control sensor wire a couple have mentioned being gate issue for them is a possibility, but not sure which wire that is to check it myself. If someone can point me in that direction I'll run down there and take a look.
I'm not somewhere and don't have the tools to really start pulling fuel lines and such. I guess if the filter is easy to access I coul switch it out.
If you was having it cleaned, did they power wash the engine bay? Also they would of had the doors open so your battery might be a bit low. A quick fuel pressure test is that the screw on the pulsation damper will rise when the pump is activated, also stick your ear by the pump.
They didn't wash the engine bay - that was the first thing I asked and it did t appear as though he did. I thought about the battery, but it's brand new and it's cranking like nobody's business so I don't think that is it either.
Where is the pulsation damper? And pump? So I can look for what you're describing. Guess my novice level is showing
BTW - thanks for the input!
Fuel Pressure Pulsation Damper... Help
Fuel pump is in the tank itself, there is a inspection hatch under the rear seats
Fuel pump is in the tank itself, there is a inspection hatch under the rear seats
So, I just had this exact thing happen to me yesterday. I had just filled up with gas, got in and it was a little hard to start. Got to work no problem, but when I tried to leave, no start. At first I thought that it might have something to do with a full tank and a change in weather, but removing the gas cap didn't do anything. Per your suggestions I replaced the EFI 20 amp fuse, and it fired right up. Not sure what the problem was as the fuse doesn't look like it was blown. It really just looked like one of the prongs on the fuse got fouled up somehow. I really just chalked it up to the car being almost 20 years old.
The weird part is that it idles better now.
The weird part is that it idles better now.
Had someone try to crank while I watched the pulsation damper- no movement. When Fuel line in engine side of filter was pulled no fu k was being delivered to the engine. Shop checked the pump and when it was powered up fuel would only trickle out sporadically. Replaced the pump and went ahead and did the filter too for good measure since I'm at 220k.
Thanks for the input!
