I must be the 1000th member with the crank/no start problem and thanks to IH8MUD, I think I've got it fixed. I used the EFI Relay Bypass Kit from forum member Medtro. (See elsewhere in this forum). It replaces the relay and fuse, bypassing the fuse box. However, when installing the kit, I found that one of the slots (Medtro labels it "F" in his photos) in the relay socket wouldn't hold the connector. It was so loose the spade connector flopped out. I used a penknife to bend the contacts in the socket until it held the connector tightly. My problem was solved with installation of the kit, but before spending even the pittance that Medtro charges for his kit, users should pull the relay and check all sockets with a spade connector. I wouldn't be surprised if this were the root of the whole problem.
100 series cranks but won't turn over / start
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I’m having a similar scenario to this issue,
So we have had our LC for about two years now, very high mileage! Currently 449K
BUT it has never let us down, back and forth on multiple multi 100 mile plus trips and beach outings. Never had an issue.
Well today my wife drove it to work as I needed to check her struts on her CRV. She’s about 3/4 of the way to work and under 30 miles an hour and the engine dies, we were actually on the phone together talking while it died. She’s a little concerned trying to pull over, so she gets the vehicle stopped and it has power so she turns on her flashers put it in park turns the key off try to turn it back on again and here’s the catch, she told me the starter only turned over for a couple seconds or rotations as she would explain it. She turns the key off completely and tried to crank it two more times and again the starter would not continue to turn over as long as she held the key is what she’s telling me. Only a couple rotations and then nothing. No CEL either.
I throw on more clothes to jump in her car and she hangs up with me and called her work tells them she’s going to be a little bit late, she calls me back and it’s running and she’s driving it again into work. She said she just thoifht to try it again and it turned over and fired right up. She said it barely rotated or (cycled) and fired right up.
So I continue on to her work switch cars and it doesn’t miss a beat all the way home I’ve driven it twice today already no issues, no warning lights.
I thought maybe it had something to do with the ignition switch so I tried both keys which I have new batteries in the transmitters and both work and I can’t get any kind of fault or problem when you wiggle the key when the engine is running. I thought maybe it had something to do with the ignition switch so I tried both keys which I have new batteries in the transmitters and both Work Well and I can’t get any kind of fault or problem when you wiggle the key when the engine is running.
If I end up with a day off tomorrow I’m gonna go and put a new EFI fuse in it, the 20A one that you guys are referring to.
Seems the more I read earlier about crank position sensor’s and things like that those tend to crop up when it’s hot outside. Which I understand, today’s high couldn’t have been over 50° and it certainly wasn’t even 40 yet when she was driving to work.
I say all that (and thank you all for taking the time to read it) to ask this question, is it worth me buying Tech Stream and putting it on an old Windows laptop to see if there are minor codes being stored that are significant faults enough for the system to throw a CEL?
So we have had our LC for about two years now, very high mileage! Currently 449K
BUT it has never let us down, back and forth on multiple multi 100 mile plus trips and beach outings. Never had an issue.
Well today my wife drove it to work as I needed to check her struts on her CRV. She’s about 3/4 of the way to work and under 30 miles an hour and the engine dies, we were actually on the phone together talking while it died. She’s a little concerned trying to pull over, so she gets the vehicle stopped and it has power so she turns on her flashers put it in park turns the key off try to turn it back on again and here’s the catch, she told me the starter only turned over for a couple seconds or rotations as she would explain it. She turns the key off completely and tried to crank it two more times and again the starter would not continue to turn over as long as she held the key is what she’s telling me. Only a couple rotations and then nothing. No CEL either.
I throw on more clothes to jump in her car and she hangs up with me and called her work tells them she’s going to be a little bit late, she calls me back and it’s running and she’s driving it again into work. She said she just thoifht to try it again and it turned over and fired right up. She said it barely rotated or (cycled) and fired right up.
So I continue on to her work switch cars and it doesn’t miss a beat all the way home I’ve driven it twice today already no issues, no warning lights.
I thought maybe it had something to do with the ignition switch so I tried both keys which I have new batteries in the transmitters and both work and I can’t get any kind of fault or problem when you wiggle the key when the engine is running. I thought maybe it had something to do with the ignition switch so I tried both keys which I have new batteries in the transmitters and both Work Well and I can’t get any kind of fault or problem when you wiggle the key when the engine is running.
If I end up with a day off tomorrow I’m gonna go and put a new EFI fuse in it, the 20A one that you guys are referring to.
Seems the more I read earlier about crank position sensor’s and things like that those tend to crop up when it’s hot outside. Which I understand, today’s high couldn’t have been over 50° and it certainly wasn’t even 40 yet when she was driving to work.
I say all that (and thank you all for taking the time to read it) to ask this question, is it worth me buying Tech Stream and putting it on an old Windows laptop to see if there are minor codes being stored that are significant faults enough for the system to throw a CEL?
Bump. So today it took several cranks for the vehicle to start. I recently replaced my battery and starter (OEM), so I can rule those out. I am thinking of replacing the fuel filter and carrying an extra EFI relay with me.
D̶o̶e̶s̶ ̶a̶n̶y̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶k̶n̶o̶w̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶p̶a̶r̶t̶#̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶f̶u̶e̶l̶ ̶f̶i̶l̶t̶e̶r̶ ̶t̶h̶a̶t̶ ̶g̶o̶e̶s̶ ̶u̶n̶d̶e̶r̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶h̶o̶o̶d̶?̶ ̶I̶ ̶w̶a̶s̶ ̶o̶n̶l̶y̶ ̶a̶b̶l̶e̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶f̶i̶n̶d̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶i̶n̶s̶i̶d̶e̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶f̶u̶e̶l̶ ̶t̶a̶n̶k̶.̶
Found it
D̶o̶e̶s̶ ̶a̶n̶y̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶k̶n̶o̶w̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶p̶a̶r̶t̶#̶ ̶f̶o̶r̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶f̶u̶e̶l̶ ̶f̶i̶l̶t̶e̶r̶ ̶t̶h̶a̶t̶ ̶g̶o̶e̶s̶ ̶u̶n̶d̶e̶r̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶h̶o̶o̶d̶?̶ ̶I̶ ̶w̶a̶s̶ ̶o̶n̶l̶y̶ ̶a̶b̶l̶e̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶f̶i̶n̶d̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶o̶n̶e̶ ̶i̶n̶s̶i̶d̶e̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶f̶u̶e̶l̶ ̶t̶a̶n̶k̶.̶
Found it
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Just wanted to thank the OP.
I had a similar issue with the crank being strong but the engine not turning over.
After I saw your fuse inquiry, I went to mine and discovered that my EFI 20A fuse was shot. Replaced it with the 20A radio one and the Landy just started.
Thanks for this thread and please ignore the comment about "not knowing to do diagnostics"
I had a similar issue with the crank being strong but the engine not turning over.
After I saw your fuse inquiry, I went to mine and discovered that my EFI 20A fuse was shot. Replaced it with the 20A radio one and the Landy just started.
Thanks for this thread and please ignore the comment about "not knowing to do diagnostics"
I just had this problem tonight, 1st time, ever. 2001 lc. 205k. Wouldn't start but cranked strong as could be. Tried it a couple time and it started fine and good to go.Really stunk though.Meant awful situation being stuck!
So I've searched and read all the threads I could find.
In an effort to aggregate all the relevant threads and hopefully help someone research this in the future, I've compiled a list of what I could find searching
However after reading thru all of them and then some (80's tech. not included below) There doesn't seem like there is solution nailed down.
Is there a definitive answer yet?
What I've done so far with my limited technical know how:
-Replace the fuel filter (done a mth ago prior to the problem, as preventative / ongoing base line)
-replaced the efi fuse (see pics) looked rough but i'm not sure how a fuse should look, i would think "cleaner" than that.
-tested battery, test good
-run good gas always (whatever good means really, chevron/shell, at times costco)
- reviewed remote key fob / opened-cleaned, seemed very well intact. tested with non remote master as well. started fine.
*** No dash lights "indicating" a problem and no codes of any kind shown when checked ***
2002 100 crank won't start
01 Land Cruiser - Turns over but won't start?
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2000-lx-470-cranks-but-will-not-fire.690124/ -Fuse(s)
2002 LC100 - Not Starting... ??? Fuel Pump ???
No start condition
1999 land cruiser will not start
Starting problems
Help!! I'm Irate!! Ignition Trouble...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/fix-for-immobilizer-issue.758984/ **** ( solid info in here!)
2002 landcrusiser will not start
Cranked but wouldn't fire, Neutral safety switch?
100 WONT start :(
Mystery Diagnosis ??
no start immobilizer issue
Cruiser cranks, won't start!
Immobilizer issues
----
1998 LC Key replacement new key issue - programming steps
Key not recognized (real time help pls!)
Programming a Transponder Key for 99 TLC 16+pages
Little disappointed cutting out while driving
built relay for immobilizer / fuel injection non start pictures **
LC does not start then starts after about an hour after no cranking.
01 immobilizer issue WITH both VSC lights on...save my marraige please!
Has anyone ever had trouble with their immobilizer system?
got stranded last night for the first time.. Security related issue need suggestions
Won't start / electrical issue - Out of options, any advice welcome
99 LX470 - crank and think it is going to catch, but no start? Nov 2015
Quick No-Crank, No-Start Question | IH8MUD Forum
Quick No-Crank, No-Start Question
forum.ih8mud.com
**** this one here is a goodie and should NOT be over looked **** fix for immobilizer issue? <----------------------
EFI 20 fuse condition, old vs new just taken:
- Thread starter
- #65
@Mahdi1432 Glad it worked but to be fair it wasn't a permanent fix. It worked for a while but ended up back to a no start issue. For a fix that has lasted me 10's of thousands of miles you'll want to see @medtro
forum.ih8mud.com
Safe trails.
EFI Relay Bypass Kit (Immobilizer Fix) for UZJ100/LX470
This bypass kit bypasses the bad EFI relay circuit in the fuse box so that the immobilizer system gets adequate power supply for starting the car. I made this for myself after my new 30A replacement fuse - initial fix for crank but not start problem, failed to start after 4 days. Some members...
forum.ih8mud.com
Safe trails.
An update on my two-year-old post regarding the crank/no start problem. As I mentioned in my original post, I bought the EFI relay bypass kit from Medtro and have since put another 50,000 miles on the LC. It's been through a SoCal winter and lately a Canadian winter and hasn't hiccuped once. Problem definitely solved. Thanks again Medtro.
Two crank/no start episodes in the past couple of months. The 20a fuse is functional (not blown). The truck would try to start and run briefly with starting fluid (so there is spark). Replaced fuel filter. No change. Put everything back together. Then I turned the key to accessory for five seconds and tried cranking. This strategy has worked both times.
Any ideas?
For good measure, I’ve ordered the fuel pump and the EFI relay bypass. I plan on installing the fuel pump as PM today.
Any ideas?
For good measure, I’ve ordered the fuel pump and the EFI relay bypass. I plan on installing the fuel pump as PM today.
2000, 245k miles, crank no start in ikea parking lot.
Towed home, ran thru this thread, jumped efi fuse, started.
Soldered a couple dots on a new fuse, drove a around in town for two days, immobilizer kicked in while going 45mph.
Pulled over safely, reseated the fuse and relay, drove home.
Ordered new fuse box.
Installed new fusebox. (cleaned all contacts & grounds while I was in there. Slow and steady job, took ~3 hours due to stripped bolt in the wheel well that required removing plastic cladding above DF wheel to access other side of bolt)
Truck is happier - starter catching on first crank every time now. Could be my imagination, but engine and tranny seem way smoother, too. Should have cleaned this up years ago.
Thanks to OP and everyone who's added to MUD knowledge base. Saved me a bunch of $$$$, worry and time.
Towed home, ran thru this thread, jumped efi fuse, started.
Soldered a couple dots on a new fuse, drove a around in town for two days, immobilizer kicked in while going 45mph.
Pulled over safely, reseated the fuse and relay, drove home.
Ordered new fuse box.
Installed new fusebox. (cleaned all contacts & grounds while I was in there. Slow and steady job, took ~3 hours due to stripped bolt in the wheel well that required removing plastic cladding above DF wheel to access other side of bolt)
Truck is happier - starter catching on first crank every time now. Could be my imagination, but engine and tranny seem way smoother, too. Should have cleaned this up years ago.
Thanks to OP and everyone who's added to MUD knowledge base. Saved me a bunch of $$$$, worry and time.
Hi Everyone, something else to try is changing the little battery inside the key.
I have had the same crank/no-start issue off and on for a year and have had similar experiences to everyone else on these threads (stuck in parking lot, towed home, only to find that as soon as the truck was dropped at my house it fired right up). I was just about to get into the more expensive troubleshooting options when I started to recognize a pattern. Almost every time it happened my key had been sitting out in the open somewhere (in the ignition or on the center console while I loaded my car, etc). Was it getting cold? Usually my key lives in my pocket, nice and warm. Then one day the no-start issue happened again and I took my key into my cupped hands and breathed hot air onto it for 10 seconds to warm up the battery. Truck fired right up! Maybe just a coincidence, but it took me 2 weeks to finally get around to ordering a replacement key battery on Amazon (mine was a 1632 watch battery) and during that time it happened 3 more times. Each time I warmed up my key and the truck immediately started.
It seems to make sense because:
- It was happening more and more frequently (getting worse), which fits with a battery that is slowly dying
- Could make sense why no matter how long I tried to start it (or the tow truck driver tried), the key was dangling in the ignition, staying cool/cold. Then after riding in my pocket again it warmed up.
I have since changed the key battery and so far it's only been 2 weeks but I haven't had any incidents. I am probably jinxing myself by writing this(!), and surely the problem can't be so simply solved with all of these complex solutions?? But definitely worth a try if you find yourself stranded again in the future!
I'll send an update if the problem returns. But even if it does, the "breathe hot air on key" technique did start my car 4 times, getting me out of a pinch. So again, worth a try.
Note: When I bought my truck it did not have original Toyota keys. Mine had an aftermarket replacement. So to be fair I don't know if the original key works any differently, or if it has a different battery inside.
Further note: In my case I didn't have to crank the car to see if it would start once I learned the sequence of the flashing immobilizer light on the dash. The little light should be flashing all the time when the key is out of the ignition. When you insert your key, the light stays on (stops flashing) for a second and then goes off completely. If the light keeps flashing even after you've inserted your key, don't even bother cranking because it's not going to start.
I have had the same crank/no-start issue off and on for a year and have had similar experiences to everyone else on these threads (stuck in parking lot, towed home, only to find that as soon as the truck was dropped at my house it fired right up). I was just about to get into the more expensive troubleshooting options when I started to recognize a pattern. Almost every time it happened my key had been sitting out in the open somewhere (in the ignition or on the center console while I loaded my car, etc). Was it getting cold? Usually my key lives in my pocket, nice and warm. Then one day the no-start issue happened again and I took my key into my cupped hands and breathed hot air onto it for 10 seconds to warm up the battery. Truck fired right up! Maybe just a coincidence, but it took me 2 weeks to finally get around to ordering a replacement key battery on Amazon (mine was a 1632 watch battery) and during that time it happened 3 more times. Each time I warmed up my key and the truck immediately started.
It seems to make sense because:
- It was happening more and more frequently (getting worse), which fits with a battery that is slowly dying
- Could make sense why no matter how long I tried to start it (or the tow truck driver tried), the key was dangling in the ignition, staying cool/cold. Then after riding in my pocket again it warmed up.
I have since changed the key battery and so far it's only been 2 weeks but I haven't had any incidents. I am probably jinxing myself by writing this(!), and surely the problem can't be so simply solved with all of these complex solutions?? But definitely worth a try if you find yourself stranded again in the future!
I'll send an update if the problem returns. But even if it does, the "breathe hot air on key" technique did start my car 4 times, getting me out of a pinch. So again, worth a try.
Note: When I bought my truck it did not have original Toyota keys. Mine had an aftermarket replacement. So to be fair I don't know if the original key works any differently, or if it has a different battery inside.
Further note: In my case I didn't have to crank the car to see if it would start once I learned the sequence of the flashing immobilizer light on the dash. The little light should be flashing all the time when the key is out of the ignition. When you insert your key, the light stays on (stops flashing) for a second and then goes off completely. If the light keeps flashing even after you've inserted your key, don't even bother cranking because it's not going to start.
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Nope! Battery is for the door FOB only.
To test this use key without a fab, valet. They have chip in-bedded in the plastic case. Master w/FOB has chip in-bedded in FOB, but still independent of battery powering door FOB.
To test this use key without a fab, valet. They have chip in-bedded in the plastic case. Master w/FOB has chip in-bedded in FOB, but still independent of battery powering door FOB.
UPDATE: 3 months later and ZERO recurrences. This was happening all the time before I changed my key fob battery. If you've gotten this far in the thread do yourself a favor and try it.
Sorry my description might have been misleading as my key doesn't really have a fob either. There are no buttons on it or anything. But it does contain a battery. I didn't even realize it had a battery at first. Again, mine is aftermarket and I never had the original keys so I'm not sure if this is completely different than the original keys. I'll upload some pics here to show what I have. The key pulls apart and there's a little wristwatch-style battery in there.
I understand this solution may not help everyone here. But for me at least it completely fixed the issue.
Crap. That sucks