Yes it's a piece of s***. It came with the car, so it was free. I did consider upgrading to OEM but I thought it was going to be more like $240 at the dealership. I don't think my local Toyota dealer would sell me a free cup of coffee for under $40.
100 series cranks but won't turn over / start (1 Viewer)
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I'm 99% certain the battery in your ILCO replacement key is only used to emulate the transponder in the OEM key. I also have one for my WRX and it doesn't have any remote buttons to lock/unlock the doors
In your specific case, a dead battery will have an effect on your ability to start the car. For everyone else with a standard key it shouldn't make any difference.
EDIT - Definitely a terrible design. The key blade can pop off easily, and fully detaches from the keyring.
The YotaMD key FOBs is a good option too. I believe you can purchase a key/FOB blank, have it cut and then pair with TechLink.
In your specific case, a dead battery will have an effect on your ability to start the car. For everyone else with a standard key it shouldn't make any difference.
EDIT - Definitely a terrible design. The key blade can pop off easily, and fully detaches from the keyring.
The YotaMD key FOBs is a good option too. I believe you can purchase a key/FOB blank, have it cut and then pair with TechLink.
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Cool thanks for the product advice. And yes I agree, seems like what solved it for me won't help many others. Bummer. Who knows though; could help someone else like me with a s***ty aftermarket key.
HI Everyone, Have been lurking here for a few years since I moved to Nairobi and bought a 1998 100 Series 1HD-FTE automatic RHD. This forum is incredible!
I started experiencing the random stall won't start, then randomly start issue for 6 months. The odometer reads 250,000 kms but I don't believe it. The car was used hard by PO as it was a rally support vehicle. It's now evolved to starts first thing in the morning when cold but once warms up won't start.
What was happening: Driving along normal speeds in normal traffic then car would die and the dash lights came on. After stopping then putting in park it would start most of the time. After several rounds of this I just popped it into neutral and restart. Gradually became harder to start while rolling, then harder to start after stopping. Also started to get an issue where on hard acceleration car would die. Only way to start was starting fluid
Here's what we've done:
Electrical trouble shooting was done using proper diagnostic equipment reading currents, voltages and signals.
Replaced Spill Valve - it was pulling way too high amps.
Replaced MAP sensor was reading incorrect atm press.
Added a circuit to the ECU as the 5V ref was reading wrong.
Bypassed the EFI fuse as the connector was melted. Connected at the wires going into the bottom of main engine compartment junction box. BTW PO had stuffed steel wool and jammed the fuse back in.
cleaned ignition switch
checked fusible links with trouble light
Checked the starter.
Found a poor connection on the transmission full of ATF.
Adjusted fuel tank cap to only a couple clicks
intake butterfly works
intake heater comes on for 2 mins
I've noticed water in the passenger floorboard
corrected the water temp and oil temp sensors as they were swapped
drained fuel filter - no visible junk or water
several sensor wires with open insulation - lots of sketchy stuff on the harness
Drove with diagnostics tool connected and no error codes
Took it out and the stalling seems to be stopped - accelerates and decelerates without dying. Tank is half full
Car now starts when cold but as it heats up it gets harder to start then at about halfway on the temp gauge it won't start.
Was able to turn on the ignition and jump the starter - now even that doesn't seem to work.
My electrical diagnostics guy thinks the injector pump is bad - Thoughts? BTW he can get Toyota original parts from Japan as his aunt lives there
I combined the starting wiring diagram and engine control **NEED TO VERIFY** Someone please double check (is that ok to ask?)
What I'm curious about is why the common problem of that EFI fuse connector going bad. There is quite a daisy chain of components and any one of those components going bad can increase current draw.
I haven't seen any silver bullet fixes - not conclusive root cause identified.
Question: anyone know where the Spill Valve relay on these are? I read somewhere someone took the entire dash out to the firewall (!)
Next will be to go through and check the relays, fusible links and fuses.
Any suggestions other than what the manual suggest of checking resistance?
First post so please be gentle
I started experiencing the random stall won't start, then randomly start issue for 6 months. The odometer reads 250,000 kms but I don't believe it. The car was used hard by PO as it was a rally support vehicle. It's now evolved to starts first thing in the morning when cold but once warms up won't start.
What was happening: Driving along normal speeds in normal traffic then car would die and the dash lights came on. After stopping then putting in park it would start most of the time. After several rounds of this I just popped it into neutral and restart. Gradually became harder to start while rolling, then harder to start after stopping. Also started to get an issue where on hard acceleration car would die. Only way to start was starting fluid
Here's what we've done:
Electrical trouble shooting was done using proper diagnostic equipment reading currents, voltages and signals.
Replaced Spill Valve - it was pulling way too high amps.
Replaced MAP sensor was reading incorrect atm press.
Added a circuit to the ECU as the 5V ref was reading wrong.
Bypassed the EFI fuse as the connector was melted. Connected at the wires going into the bottom of main engine compartment junction box. BTW PO had stuffed steel wool and jammed the fuse back in.
cleaned ignition switch
checked fusible links with trouble light
Checked the starter.
Found a poor connection on the transmission full of ATF.
Adjusted fuel tank cap to only a couple clicks
intake butterfly works
intake heater comes on for 2 mins
I've noticed water in the passenger floorboard
corrected the water temp and oil temp sensors as they were swapped
drained fuel filter - no visible junk or water
several sensor wires with open insulation - lots of sketchy stuff on the harness
Drove with diagnostics tool connected and no error codes
Took it out and the stalling seems to be stopped - accelerates and decelerates without dying. Tank is half full
Car now starts when cold but as it heats up it gets harder to start then at about halfway on the temp gauge it won't start.
Was able to turn on the ignition and jump the starter - now even that doesn't seem to work.
My electrical diagnostics guy thinks the injector pump is bad - Thoughts? BTW he can get Toyota original parts from Japan as his aunt lives there
I combined the starting wiring diagram and engine control **NEED TO VERIFY** Someone please double check (is that ok to ask?)
What I'm curious about is why the common problem of that EFI fuse connector going bad. There is quite a daisy chain of components and any one of those components going bad can increase current draw.
I haven't seen any silver bullet fixes - not conclusive root cause identified.
Question: anyone know where the Spill Valve relay on these are? I read somewhere someone took the entire dash out to the firewall (!)
Next will be to go through and check the relays, fusible links and fuses.
Any suggestions other than what the manual suggest of checking resistance?
First post so please be gentle
Glad to know you found the fix. Mine started a few weeks ago and thanks to this thread, I knew exactly what the issue was. New fuse box is on the way.
.
My "Crank/No Start" turned out to be a progressively more severe failing fuel pump.
Found that out AFTER replacing the Engine Room Block Assembly. ($$$)
Denso sold their fuel pump Division to Aisan (not Aisin) so that's what will be considered
OEM. Last I checked, they were +/- $450 which is more expensive than the Densos were.
I have a Delphi from RockAuto and it has been trouble free for about 5K miles.
So, I guess, the moral of the story is that if you have an extra $140 bucks, get a delphi unit
and swap it in. If it solves the issue, then decide if you want to upgrade to the Aisan. If it
doesn't solve the problem, put the OEM one back in and keep the delphi as a spare.
Found that out AFTER replacing the Engine Room Block Assembly. ($$$)
Denso sold their fuel pump Division to Aisan (not Aisin) so that's what will be considered
OEM. Last I checked, they were +/- $450 which is more expensive than the Densos were.
I have a Delphi from RockAuto and it has been trouble free for about 5K miles.
So, I guess, the moral of the story is that if you have an extra $140 bucks, get a delphi unit
and swap it in. If it solves the issue, then decide if you want to upgrade to the Aisan. If it
doesn't solve the problem, put the OEM one back in and keep the delphi as a spare.
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