100 Series Button Repair How-To - A/C, Defrost, Recirc etc (4 Viewers)

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I pulled off all of the blue covers, cleaned the contacts with alcohol, and then re-installed the blue covers. Re-install is a bit of work, but can be done with fingers and a small tool (a pin head or a dental pick). Now, all buttons work flawlessly (thanks hoser.. saved me a lot of soldering time!).

I ran across a question:

What does the button circled in red do? My 2001 LX470 has a blank there, like all the others I've seen. The button is on the circuit board, but not on the outer fascia (just a blank).

The Japanese text on the circuit board says "rear ____" something, according to my Google lens app. "rear cool" is the second from right switch... Ideas? Thoughts? Any Japanese translators available?

Circuit Board.png
 
I just did this project with the help of this great forum.

taking apart the HVAC console was easy and also taking apart the circuit board.

unsoldering and soldering was tough. Not my best talent. Was able to get the old switches out but getting the old solder out was the hardest.

just be patient if you don’t have soldering skills.

all said and done, the new switches are great and I only need to press it once to turn it on or off. Only did 3 , but may need to do some more as they go out.

thanks again for this great fix.
 
I pulled off all of the blue covers, cleaned the contacts with alcohol, and then re-installed the blue covers. Re-install is a bit of work, but can be done with fingers and a small tool (a pin head or a dental pick). Now, all buttons work flawlessly (thanks hoser.. saved me a lot of soldering time!).

I ran across a question:

What does the button circled in red do? My 2001 LX470 has a blank there, like all the others I've seen. The button is on the circuit board, but not on the outer fascia (just a blank).

The Japanese text on the circuit board says "rear ____" something, according to my Google lens app. "rear cool" is the second from right switch... Ideas? Thoughts? Any Japanese translators available?

View attachment 2060516

Circled red switch label says Rear Heat
 
Metty: I know this post is about 2 years old however I have 2 LC's and our 2000 has this exact switch problem. I already took the controls out once but decided not to go past to the microswitch removal since I had no replacements. Thanks to your write up, now I do. I already have a soldering station and solder sucker so I believe I have a shot. Worked in a power station before I retired and was involved with Instrument and Control Techs repairing control and printed circuit cards. Pictures you had are great, one question if you see this is why did you remove the rotary control switches from above the rear fan control and defrost switches, I assume they were blocking access? Thanks again, Jim. By the way our 2000 LC 200 has 318,000 miles on it, runs great so far.
 
I think I removed the rotary switches for access but I can’t remember for sure. I can tell you I wouldn’t have pulled them off if I didn’t need to
 
Just to add, I also did similar to CanadianRockyCruiser, and didn't bother with ordering/soldering in new switches. Just popped off the blue button cover and a quick shot of QD Electronic Cleaner on each side, and put it back together. They didn't look bad, but it fixed all three buttons that I did it to. The A/C and recirc buttons had been completely non-functional, and the rear defrost button would only every work after tapping it a lot of times. Now all work perfectly fine.
I did not need to remove the white plastic housing to do this to both the A/C and recirc buttons, as they were accessible just above it. I found a tiny socket driver was the best tool for pushing the button back into place to put firm pressure on the circumference, and rotating it some, while nudging down the stubborn spots on the outside with a tiny screwdriver. I may have boogered up the rubber a bit in a place or two as it didn't fit a perfect seal in place, but it didn't seem to affect performance.
Thanks for help, and glad I can do everything with a single button press now.
 
I pulled it apart and put foam tape behind the physical buttons and the contacts. I did this a year ago and it’s still working. The buttons feel way more solid and work 100% of the time.
 
I pulled it apart and put foam tape behind the physical buttons and the contacts. I did this a year ago and it’s still working. The buttons feel way more solid and work 100% of the time.

Same. I've been meaning to fix mine and I remember seeing a few years ago a post about gluing a small portion of a zip tie on the back of the physical buttons. I did this, and now all of the switches are working great. I try to avoid working on IC boards if possible. If this fix fails me down the road, I will next just buy the switches, pop off the old rubber covers, spray switches with Deoxit, and replace the rubber covers from the new switches.
 
Just did this yesterday. In my case I had the antenna switch and the 3 switches to set the clock as well, that were working well. So mostly out of curiosity I took it apart and switched the switches. I have ****ed up the one switch that had a blank button while desoldering. With the remaining switches I did the foam tape approach.

The end result being that all my switches work now. Even the ones to set the clock are working fine. My recommendation is to try the foam tape first and see if it really is the switch itself. I also recommend 1-2mm (google says its 0 3/64") of foamtape, more didnt work.
 
I also did this last weekend. I originally tried using a spacer on top of the buttons, but was not getting consistent continuity when the buttons were pressed. I went ahead a peeled the silicone covers off the buttons, cleaned both sides with rubbing alcohol, and reassembled without the spacers and it all worked well. The silicone covers are slightly difficult to get back on, and mine did not go on 100% correctly, but it seems to be working as is. Just wanted to provide the feedback incase anyone tries the spacers and it does not work and they want to try something else before digging in with soldering stuff.
 
I soldered in new micro switches as suggested here and all issues so far have been eliminated. Since I have extra switches, I can take care of them should others fail later. I completed this work the first week in October 2020. SO far so good as I stated. 321k on our 2000 LC.
 
Cleaning worked for me. I tore everything down the day before driving from CA to WI last week, and all the buttons work perfectly now.
Took about an hour start to finish. To get the covers back on the buttons, I used a plastic shaft q-tip cut diagonally.
 
Cleaning worked for me. I tore everything down the day before driving from CA to WI last week, and all the buttons work perfectly now.
Took about an hour start to finish. To get the covers back on the buttons, I used a plastic shaft q-tip cut diagonally.
I tried the cleaning method, and the buttons would work at first but start faltering a few days later. Interested to hear how long it lasts for you.
 
Mine still working fine after 3 months. What did you use for a cleaner?
When I did it, I tried a couple of times, once with the CRC electrical cleaner, and another time with alcohol. Same result both times. I ended up buying a whole new panel from a wrecked truck and it has been working since.
 
After my hack job soldering, all buttons are replaced and now work. Bought twenty five $.17 buttons, a desoldering iron, and a soldering iron. Spent less than $50 and now everything is working. Being able to set the clock is definitely the best outcome of this little project.
 
Thanks for the write up, appreciate the detail, just fixed my Rear Fan Switch issue. Had been always hard to push on and off. Checked all my bulbs while I was in there and found one had burnt out.

IMG_3881.jpeg
 

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