Lol I think the consensus was no, they can't for a few different reasons that I don't recall at the moment.
ARCHIVE 100 Series 1" Body Lift
- Thread starter Duiser Offroad
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Lol I think the consensus was no, they can't for a few different reasons that I don't recall at the moment.
Anything is doable. Although at 3" the work required would offset whatever the benefit might be. It would be a total customization. Steering, linkage, totally custom bumpers/sliders, a/c, brake and fuel lines. I would think you'd need to have the body off the frame, or do a total tear down and rebuild. What would you be looking to gain by going with a 3" BL? Unless it would be a total trail rig, or show truck, I think it would look ridiculous.
But, If you have the means, then I say go for it...... People would be interested.
- Thread starter
- #103
Not even 2" 
Love it!
- Thread starter
- #106
If you want a 2" body lift for your 100 we have all the pieces. I wouldn't suggest but, its your vehicle. Contact us at info@jonesys.com
Not even 2"
- Thread starter
- #107
Anyone have our 1" BL and a ARB rear bumper?? Pictures?? 
- Thread starter
- #109
Yeah, just want pictures of the gap. Did you adjust it?
No adjusting. It's not even possible without major work on the bumper.
Do you want pictures posted here or sent to your email?
- Thread starter
- #111
Paint the areas behind the bumper black. It will make the gap appear much smaller. I did that on my ARB and it doesn't look like it has a gap.
The front is a little different than the back. The ARB can be adjusted in the front and the lip of the grill hides the gap a little bit. The back is different and the body actually sits above the bumper, so you can see right through the gap. Paint won't help, and it would actually make it stick out more.
Paint may hide it a little on the wings (sides) but not the rear under the tailgate. A piece of weather striping stuck to the bumper works to fill the rear gap though.
Here are some more close up ones. Lower quality because I didn't photo host them, but it gives you an idea about the gap. The gap was the least of my concerns when doing the body lift. You're gonna have a gap unless you can adjust your bumpers up, but some gap will still be there. Same with your sliders. But for the MT sliders (and the Slee sliders too) it's as easy as cutting the brackets, raising them up and welding them into place.
The gap isn't as noticeable if you at least have a tire carrier. If your bumper has dual swingouts, you'll barely see it. I probably have more wires showing in the gap than most because I did this mod Slee bracket
I could hide the wires better too, I just haven't gotten around to it. License plate blur mod done to annoy jonharis. It's not a secret.
The gap isn't as noticeable if you at least have a tire carrier. If your bumper has dual swingouts, you'll barely see it. I probably have more wires showing in the gap than most because I did this mod Slee bracket
I could hide the wires better too, I just haven't gotten around to it. License plate blur mod done to annoy jonharis. It's not a secret.
Would weatherstripping work to fill the gap?
^Yes
I have a writeup about the steering spacer install too. Trying to get some pics together.
I've been meaning to post this up for a while....
More of a concern than the gaps are the lowering of the radiator and the steering spacers. The kit comes with everything you need. Lowering the radiator is pretty self explanatory, but still a little bit of a chore. Removing the main battery makes it a lot easier.
The steering spacer on the other hand was more of a project for me. But, I'm a 1
guy. The angle of the steering shaft will have changed with the BL and your steering will be very stiff and almost unresponsive.
This first step should have been done prior to lifting the body off the frame, but I didn't really read the instructions, I just went to work. You can see in this next picture the black hard rubber boot that needs to be cut to access the bolts at the rag joint. I looped my seatbelt tight through the steering wheel to avoid the wheel from getting misaligned when I was done. I also placed matchmarks for when the entire joint separated it would be easy to re-align.
Cut the black boot to get to the nuts at the end of the bolt (red arrow). You'll remove these completely as the kit comes with longer bolts/nuts. There are two of these bolts, so you'll have to turn the wheel slightly to access the other one. Do one at a time (don't tighten yet) so you can turn the wheel without misaligning it. This whole job is made easier by removing your front seat. You'll need the room.
You can see how stressed the rag joint is because the body has already been raised.
Once you remove these bolts (or just loosen them and then lift the body if you're following the directions) you can slide in the steering spacer(s). I used two spacers to get my steering back to normal. In this shot, the bolts are loose and you can see the relief the space provides.
Install the spacers below the joint.
This picture shows one spacer (under the cut boot) and the new bolts in place. I added one more spacer as well.
Bolt everything back up and that part is finished. It's probably possible to access the nuts below the boot without cutting it, but it would be a huge PITA, and I wanted full access to them when tightening everything back up.
Now, onto the steering shaft clearance......
More of a concern than the gaps are the lowering of the radiator and the steering spacers. The kit comes with everything you need. Lowering the radiator is pretty self explanatory, but still a little bit of a chore. Removing the main battery makes it a lot easier.
The steering spacer on the other hand was more of a project for me. But, I'm a 1
guy. The angle of the steering shaft will have changed with the BL and your steering will be very stiff and almost unresponsive.This first step should have been done prior to lifting the body off the frame, but I didn't really read the instructions, I just went to work. You can see in this next picture the black hard rubber boot that needs to be cut to access the bolts at the rag joint. I looped my seatbelt tight through the steering wheel to avoid the wheel from getting misaligned when I was done. I also placed matchmarks for when the entire joint separated it would be easy to re-align.
Cut the black boot to get to the nuts at the end of the bolt (red arrow). You'll remove these completely as the kit comes with longer bolts/nuts. There are two of these bolts, so you'll have to turn the wheel slightly to access the other one. Do one at a time (don't tighten yet) so you can turn the wheel without misaligning it. This whole job is made easier by removing your front seat. You'll need the room.
You can see how stressed the rag joint is because the body has already been raised.
Once you remove these bolts (or just loosen them and then lift the body if you're following the directions) you can slide in the steering spacer(s). I used two spacers to get my steering back to normal. In this shot, the bolts are loose and you can see the relief the space provides.
Install the spacers below the joint.
This picture shows one spacer (under the cut boot) and the new bolts in place. I added one more spacer as well.
Bolt everything back up and that part is finished. It's probably possible to access the nuts below the boot without cutting it, but it would be a huge PITA, and I wanted full access to them when tightening everything back up.
Now, onto the steering shaft clearance......
